logo
Thread Tools
Old 11-23-2019, 12:50 AM
DGrant is online now
Find More Posts by DGrant
Just havin' fun!
DGrant's Avatar
United States, CA, Clovis
Joined Apr 2006
573 Posts
You're right, I did overlook that part. I took the rating of the battery resistance as 1C... and it clearly states "charge rate".

Thank you for clarifying. I'm not sure what I was thinking or why I missed that, as I am fully aware of charging at 1C with every lithium battery I own. Total brain fart here.

I'll just crawl to my corner and be quiet now.
DGrant is online now Find More Posts by DGrant
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old 11-23-2019, 07:41 AM
exeter_acres is offline
Find More Posts by exeter_acres
tap....tap.tap... is this on?
exeter_acres's Avatar
Johns Creek, GA
Joined Jan 2006
8,627 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DGrant View Post
I wouldn't use that pack for what you're intending too.

I'm curious if you saw the C-rating on that battery?... (it's on the label)

It's rated for 1C. That's 3.2amps. There's a reason there's only 20g wire coming off of it...

That is the charge rate.........
exeter_acres is offline Find More Posts by exeter_acres
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 08:43 AM
lrb75 is online now
Find More Posts by lrb75
Registered User
United States, VA, Springfield
Joined Aug 2010
48 Posts
Buy a bare ec3 plug clip the jr plug and solder the new plug on. One lead at a time to not short the battery, Soldering the pig tail directly to the pack would be way harder. The solder pads might not be able to take the larger wire and you need special flux for aluminum, The small gauge wire is short and shouldn't be a big problem.
lrb75 is online now Find More Posts by lrb75
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 09:37 AM
closetguy is offline
Find More Posts by closetguy
Registered User
United States, OH, Berlin Heights
Joined Jul 2006
4,908 Posts
Are the soldering tabs aluminum? I solder 14-16 gage wire all the time to these tabs on a123 cells.
closetguy is offline Find More Posts by closetguy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 10:24 AM
lrb75 is online now
Find More Posts by lrb75
Registered User
United States, VA, Springfield
Joined Aug 2010
48 Posts
The soft cells have aluminum tabs. Unless it has a small board already soldered for the mains and balance taps.
lrb75 is online now Find More Posts by lrb75
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 05:33 PM
RCAddiction is online now
Find More Posts by RCAddiction
Registered User
RCAddiction's Avatar
United States, FL, Sarasota
Joined Jan 2006
1,093 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmasek View Post
only way to do that right is to take the wrap off the battery take the jr plug and wire off put new leads direct to the battery,i would not just cut the jr plug off and solder to the skinny wire.

That ^^^^^^^


Soldering thick gauge wire to the end of thin gauge wire still leaves the skinny wire as the choke point. Voltage will drop significantly under load. It's like having a large diameter garden hose attached to the end of a skinny hose and being surprised that the flow rate is lousy. The small hose restricts the water for a given pressure just like the small wire restricts the flow of electrons (amps) for a given voltage. The small wire simply has greater resistance than a thick wire. It won't matter at 2 or 3 amps. However, if you try to pull more amps, voltage at the receiver (and servos) will drop significantly lower than what you want.

Remove the wrapper. Remove the leads. Solder the leads from the EC3 directly to the nickel or steel solder tabs after using a dab of electronic flux and a wide chisel tip on the soldering iron. Get on and off the solder joint as quickly as possible to avoid heat damage to the cells. Then get some battery shrink tubing from RadicalRC or one of many other places to re-wrap it.


Or, just buy a battery already made up as you need it to be.
RCAddiction is online now Find More Posts by RCAddiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 05:38 PM
rooman is online now
Find More Posts by rooman
They're get'n lower mate.....
rooman's Avatar
United States, PA, Home
Joined Nov 2006
3,120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lrb75 View Post
The soft cells have aluminum tabs. Unless it has a small board already soldered for the mains and balance taps.
It's spelt & pronounced "aluminium" .........
rooman is online now Find More Posts by rooman
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2019, 06:33 PM
tande is offline
Find More Posts by tande
Registered User
tande's Avatar
United States, MI, Millington
Joined Sep 2008
1,521 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCAddiction View Post
That ^^^^^^^


Soldering thick gauge wire to the end of thin gauge wire still leaves the skinny wire as the choke point. Voltage will drop significantly under load. It's like having a large diameter garden hose attached to the end of a skinny hose and being surprised that the flow rate is lousy. The small hose restricts the water for a given pressure just like the small wire restricts the flow of electrons (amps) for a given voltage. The small wire simply has greater resistance than a thick wire. It won't matter at 2 or 3 amps. However, if you try to pull more amps, voltage at the receiver (and servos) will drop significantly lower than what you want.

Remove the wrapper. Remove the leads. Solder the leads from the EC3 directly to the nickel or steel solder tabs after using a dab of electronic flux and a wide chisel tip on the soldering iron. Get on and off the solder joint as quickly as possible to avoid heat damage to the cells. Then get some battery shrink tubing from RadicalRC or one of many other places to re-wrap it.


Or, just buy a battery already made up as you need it to be.
^^^^^^^^^
tande is offline Find More Posts by tande
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message


Quick Reply
Message:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools