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Old 08-14-2019, 09:36 AM
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So mine would end up weighing less since I won't be adding any tail weight. It will need the same amount of weight in the nose regardless of the engine to balance it. DLE calls for 26x10 or 26x12 as standard props. Remember I'm looking for scale performance. My control throws will also not be set up like a 3D airplane but again I want scale like performance.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Carruthers43 View Post
im really looking at the AT-6 but my DLE120 swings a 29x9 and i have flown it with a 28x10... a 26x10 is not near enough prop... it will make a ton of noise and not go anywhere


Actually the 29x9 is the loudest prop of them all.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Carruthers43 View Post
your statement is confusing... the DLE is way lighter than the moki... if anything he will need weight in the nose not the tail... it might work out well


Correct, my bad, you will definitely need a lot of nose weight with a 120. I was thinking about it wrong. Like 7 pounds of lead.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by yakdriver View Post
So mine would end up weighing less since I won't be adding any tail weight. It will need the same amount of weight in the nose regardless of the engine to balance it. DLE calls for 26x10 or 26x12 as standard props. Remember I'm looking for scale performance. My control throws will also not be set up like a 3D airplane but again I want scale like performance.
oh no i totally understand what you are looking for but i would suggest a 27x10 or 27x11 those two are amazing props on the 120... just from the years and gallons i have through the 120, the 29x9 is a good 3d prop but for what you want i would suggest a 27x10 or 11... that also hits the scale size exactly.

yes your airplane should be several pounds lighter than one with a moki... which will add to the flying quality in general.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Renegadeflyer View Post
Correct, my bad, you will definitely need a lot of nose weight with a 120. I was thinking about it wrong. Like 7 pounds of lead.
okay making sure there wasnt something different going on.... and yes the 29x9 is loud but for this application i think a 27x11 would be the best
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:15 AM
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One can easily get scale power to weight by throttle management. I'd rather have more power on tap if needed, than not.

If someone was flying it like a pattern ship with the Moki 250, then that's the pilot's fault, not the power plant's.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JuStOnE View Post
One can easily get scale power to weight by throttle management. I'd rather have more power on tap if needed, than not.

If someone was flying it like a pattern ship with the Moki 250, then that's the pilot's fault, not the power plant's.
The 120 should have plenty of excess power. I would rather be flying with 75% power than 50% or less as you have a bigger chance of the engine loading up. I'm also not spending $4000 more for an engine just for the sound. I agree that lots of power in an aerobatic machine is the way to go and I used to fly a 300+hp Acroduster II and a couple of Harmon Rockets with well over 325Hp. You must know Tim Just. I gave him his first airplane ride in a Decathalon in around 1980.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:38 PM
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Man I can’t imagine that plane with a 120 boxer in that round cowl! “The sound is in the round” I know you said you don’t care about sound but that airframe deserves a radial! Lol.. I seen it fly at Joe Nall this year and that Moki really made the plane that much more sweeter. And I would have to agree that a 27x11 will give you the best all around performance.. I tried a Mez 27x12 and it doesn’t like it feels like it doesn’t get max rpm.. anyhow good luck on your build it’s one of my favorite scale airframes
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Old 08-14-2019, 06:56 PM
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Here's the deal, Does the Moki sound cool yes. Does it sound like the 1340 in the T-6, Not close. I've got over 500hrs sitting behind a 1340 in my SNJ and the Moki doesn't come close. On take off the prop tips go supersonic and it hurts if you are close to it. If I could reproduce that sound hell yes I'd have that engine.As it is I think the DLE with a Solo prop will work great. And I still might put the 170 in it.
Amazing how these threads get a life of their own. Thanks for all the pictures and info on the build Jake and for putting up with the rest of this nonsense. It is fun to debate and everyone has kept it friendly.
Since I'm going to paint mine I found a way to prep it without sanding off all the details. I used 5 Star wax and grease remover. I then scuffed it with Grey Scotchbrite and Vietek Final Prep. The Final Prep is an abrasive paste that works with the Scotchbrite to get around all the rivets and details. This stuff is awsome and I'll be using it from now on. Leaves a nice dull finish with enough tooth for the paint to adhere.
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:53 AM
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Like that Final Prep idea. Have never tried it.

I know of Tim Just, but never met him. I got out if full scale aerobatics in '92. A few friends are still involved, like Matt Chapman & Mike Goulian. Many from my day are gone, sadly.

Anyway....looking forward to seeing your ship evolve.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:53 AM
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[QUOTE=JuStOnE;2879005]Like that Final Prep idea. Have never tried it.

First time I've used it. I did the vertical fin just to try it out and it woeked great. Didn't hurt the raised rivets and it abrades around the base of the rivets. Took about 5 min to do the fin. Nice even dull finish. Been a modeler for over 60 years and still learning new stuff.
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:38 PM
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Went to a fly in last week and still no good video worth posting. About 7 flights on the plane with the 1st being a really bad landing that I was lucky to walk away. It was the consensus of my spotters that the plane was still nose heavy. Coming in too fast with a long bleed off of speed.

There is now a total of 3 oz weight in the tail wheel cover to balance the Moki engine. The stab tube would be the ideal place to add weight. Still has a little up elevator for level flight. Much better now for landing.

Tried out the lights and the smoke for the 1st time. The lights make the plane very attractive for evening landings. The Bad Dog smoke nozzle does it's job. They now make one with 5 mm thread to fit the Moki. The oil burns clean in the Moki with little residue.

The 1st bad landing buggered my 32 x 18 Xoar laminated prop so I switched over to the 32 x18 SEP scale prop. The scale prop loads the engine. The Xoar has unlimited vertical. The SEP stalls the plane on straight upline at just the right place. Very scale like. The difference in RPM is 4600 vs 4000.

Something to watch out for about your prop. The Moki has a long shaft. If you use the scale prop hub (Tru Turn) you may have to use the prop faceplate as a spacer. The Tru Turn has its own prop mounting plate. (Got mine from Vogelsang)
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:38 PM
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Da170

Will your dl170 fit all right inside the cowl?.?? I have a da 170 that I think wants to jump inside a Texan


Quote:
Originally Posted by yakdriver View Post
Here's the deal, Does the Moki sound cool yes. Does it sound like the 1340 in the T-6, Not close. I've got over 500hrs sitting behind a 1340 in my SNJ and the Moki doesn't come close. On take off the prop tips go supersonic and it hurts if you are close to it. If I could reproduce that sound hell yes I'd have that engine.As it is I think the DLE with a Solo prop will work great. And I still might put the 170 in it.
Amazing how these threads get a life of their own. Thanks for all the pictures and info on the build Jake and for putting up with the rest of this nonsense. It is fun to debate and everyone has kept it friendly.
Since I'm going to paint mine I found a way to prep it without sanding off all the details. I used 5 Star wax and grease remover. I then scuffed it with Grey Scotchbrite and Vietek Final Prep. The Final Prep is an abrasive paste that works with the Scotchbrite to get around all the rivets and details. This stuff is awsome and I'll be using it from now on. Leaves a nice dull finish with enough tooth for the paint to adhere.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:46 AM
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Yes it does. Even has a little clearance. Jake, I think I would balance it toward the aft limit. 30% would be safe. How much flap travel do you have? The full scale has 45 degrees and it would float a little with half flap and full needed a bit more elevator in the flare. Mounting the gear in mine. Not bad once I understood it. Going to mix up some resin and flox to make a bed for the rear mount. Again thanks for posting all the picture as it will make my buils easier.
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Old 08-21-2019, 06:18 PM
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Yes it does. Even has a little clearance. Jake, I think I would balance it toward the aft limit. 30% would be safe. How much flap travel do you have? The full scale has 45 degrees and it would float a little with half flap and full needed a bit more elevator in the flare. Mounting the gear in mine. Not bad once I understood it. Going to mix up some resin and flox to make a bed for the rear mount. Again thanks for posting all the picture as it will make my buils easier.
Full flaps are set to 37 degrees from full closed.
Got a couple of pics from FB. Were taken at Wally's Squadron Fly In - Summersville, WV.
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