and put the bullets into a wood block with a shallow hole in it to hold them.. if you use a vise or metal to hold the connector it will sink the heat away you need to solder it well........

Originally Posted by horsefeetky

and put the bullets into a wood block with a shallow hole in it to hold them.. if you use a vise or metal to hold the connector it will sink the heat away you need to solder it well........

Yep! Awesome tip.

OK, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by Flybye Steve

This Cowl is long and retained only in the rear.
So I'm installing extra Tabs up in the front.
Strongly recommended if you are powering with a single cylinder Gas motor.

The BIG motor....

Congratulations on the GF40! It's an awesome engine and the four stroke sound is great! I have one on my Curtiss P6e Hawk. I love the engine but one caution about the muffler.... The iron header pipe expands less than the aluminum muffler and the muffler will loosen and fall off if you don't safety wire it. I have lost two mufflers that way. (don't ask why once did not teach me a lesson). Maybe others have a better solution, but periodic tightening (every flight) with a secure safety wire, seems to be the most practical solution. I have also used high temp / high strength thread lock. Unfortunately that still loosened and the remaining thread lock galled the head's threads during removal. OS gave me a new head/cylinder, but it was a major hassle. Be sure you monitor and tighten the muffler and install a safety wire too! Otherwise, I love the engine and I'm sure you will too!
MLT

Thanks, Ill keep an eye on it. It even wars you in the manual

I have even more that can get loose as Im using the 60 degree adapter to keep the muffler inside the cowl.

Here are a few more progress pics on the H9 Yellow Fokker DVII. Minus 7 degrees this AM! Good building weather.

omitted link-deleted

Originally Posted by werner_fly

Hi,

my name is Werner, living in Germany in the area of Frankfurt on Main - well, excuse my English
I fly models for more then 60 years. During the last years I moved from pure aerobatics to the following types of models:

Sopwith Pup: 2,47 m / 15 kg / 12s (just rebuilding from gas to elektric power)



HK36 Super Dimona: 5,4 m / 19 kg / 12s / 80 A / planetary gear 5:1 / prop 23x14 Fiala-E
(video at the end)



ASW 15B: 5 m / 11 kg / 12s / 140 A / electro-turbine (89 mm, ducted fan with 11 blades) from WeMoTec
(video at the end)





Now I am interestet in the Fokker D.VII and picked up a lot of information from this amazing thread. Thanks for all the effort you made!
Based on this information I orderd the fokker this week, waiting for delivery now.

Due to some calculation I made with eCalc, I intend to use an Leomotion L8019-150 kv outrunner.
Prop is planned to be 26x12, 25x12, or 27x10, Fiala-E3.
I will report here again.

Just one question:
what max prop-diameter is usefull to have a reasonable distance from prop to ground?

Thanks in advance!

Regards
Werner

HK36 Super Dimona - 5,4 m Motorsegler-Großmodell (18 min 28 sec)


Meine ASW 15B (5 m) mit Elektro-Turbine (14 min 23 sec)

Werner-- Beautiful planes. I especially like the Sopwith Pup. Very unusual color scheme. What pilot or aircraft is it modeled after?

As for the prop diameter-- You can use scale size. I do on a few of my planes. The prop diameter does not seem to be an issue except when the grass is long. The main issue seems to be finding a prop that will work. It is hared to find large props with the right large pitch numbers.

Mike

Nice work Painless. Where is the "Hatch" located. The one that covers the switches>

The hatch is on the left side of the fuse just behind the wing struts. Lots of plumbing and wiring. After losing a cylinder more than once on the Proctor DVII the V-twin was in before, I installed the inboard glow driver. Now when throttle goes below 1/3 the glow driver comes on. Helps make up for my poor engine tuning skills.

Got the connector soldered on and the ESC mounted.

Originally Posted by Flybye Steve

Got the connector soldered on and the ESC mounted.

I hope it is just the angle the photos were taken from, but it looks like the motor is going to be sticking waaaay out in front of the cowl.

No, It's set up perfect with the Cowl. The front of the Cowl comes out forward of the "Cheeks".


Has anyone mounted their 3D printed machine guns yet. If so, can you post a picture?

Originally Posted by Flybye Steve

OK I got the video working. I'd like to find a way to get the exhaust to exit out the bottom.

Jtec made mine $70 shipped