send it to DA

Originally Posted by airboss/oc

send it to DA

Why would I do that? I believe that Desert Aircraft only does service on their own branded engines.

that's why we buy them . what does the engine rep do ? can you send it in ?

Engine rep? I give up. What does an engine rep do?

Originally Posted by atchfoot

Engine rep? I give up. What does an engine rep do?

Dude... certain folks might feel like they're being helpful but learn to look the other way. DA won't help you - as you already know.

Telling me to send it to DA is not really in the spirit of helping me solve an ignition problem on a DLE

With it back firing with old and new ignition and sensor.The prop hub key may have sheared or the crank may have slip if it has a two piece crank? Check if the pistons are at the same height.

The pistons are in sync. I pulled the prop hub and I can visualize the key and it appears to be intact. All of the backfires have occurred when trying to start the engine, but it doesn't backfire once it's running.

I pulled the plugs and using a piston stop, retimed the engine using an old ignition unit and a spare plug and timed according to the spark. This resulted in a sensor position that was completely different from the timing position I got when I used the CH timing kit buzzing indicator. Now its at a position thats much closer to the original setting.

The combination I haven't tried yet is using a new Hall Sensor with the original timing position. When I switched out the Hall Sensor bracket, I retimed it using the CH timing kit buzzer to determine when the spark occurred.

I never did like using a buzzer,your putting all your money on it working rite just like any other electronic gizmo.I use a older rcexl ignition to time as well,you know if that's working.
Now your getting on track,Good Luck.

I took it out in the backyard after resetting the timing and now it starts and runs like a dream with no pops, kickbacks or backfiring. It was a defective Hall Effects sensor after all of this.

When I had replaced the original DLE sensor with the aftermarket sensor and bracket, I had also changed the timing at the same time, using the CH timing kit buzzing inicator to determine spark position. I later reset the timing using and old plug and an old ignition unit and it works like a dream.

Lessons learned are to change only one thing at a time, and to use an actual observed spark to set my timing. My buzzy electronic indicator must be faulty, or else I'm not using it correctly.

Many thanks to all who made suggestions in troubleshooting and shared their own experience.

Originally Posted by atchfoot

I took it out in the backyard after resetting the timing and now it starts and runs like a dream with no pops, kickbacks or backfiring. It was a defective Hall Effects sensor after all of this.

When I had replaced the original DLE sensor with the aftermarket sensor and bracket, I had also changed the timing at the same time, using the CH timing kit buzzing inicator to determine spark position. I later reset the timing using and old plug and an old ignition unit and it works like a dream.

Lessons learned are to change only one thing at a time, and to use an actual observed spark to set my timing. My buzzy electronic indicator must be faulty, or else I'm not using it correctly.

Many thanks to all who made suggestions in troubleshooting and shared their own experience.

You were probably setting the timing when the buzzer turned on rather than when it turned off. When the engine is turned in the normal direction, using a buzzer or old ignition as closetguy suggested, the timing is set either when the spark occurs as the magnet has passed under the sensor and is starting to go away from the sensor (or) the timing is set when the buzzer turns off after the magnet has passed under the sensor and is going away from the sensor. I feel the buzzer is a reliable way to set timing with a good sensor but one of the defective sensors may trigger a spark both as the magnet just starts to pass under the sensor and again when it passes away from the sensor. Many people get confused by this and set the timing to early when the buzzer turns on. I've got to the point that any engine that shows any signs of kickback or rough running automatically get a new sensor and I still much prefer the RCXP ones from RC Extreme Power.

Update! The DA carb solved all engine issues. It runs great now! I'm happy

Thank you for feedback, It will be usefull for others.
Yves