Originally Posted by epoweredrc

I have flown 35% planes before.
I kinda want him to change his mind and just try let me sell the motor and plane and just buy a 30cc or maybe a 50cc plane. this plane is just so huge. all i can do to store it in my garage right now. when its finished he wants me to keep it in my trailer and fly it anytime i want to.

35% planes fly so much easier. Far less susceptible to wind on landing.

Originally Posted by dhal22

I use Fromeco 5200 mAh Relion batteries. Was a member of GMA until it closed. Now at NGMARC.

Oh alright thanks, does the bigger plane need the extra mah? or would a 2600 be fine. its not something that would probably get flown very much.
That looks like a nice field, marc has done a good job putting it together long with the other guys hope i can come fly there at least once, its on other side of the world from me lol.

Originally Posted by dhal22

35% planes fly so much easier. Far less susceptible to wind on landing.

Yeah, well i fly mostly smaller stuff, wind don't bother me , I grew up flying 50 sized and couple 60 sized glow planes,my dad made me fly no matter wind or not so i wouldn't be scared of the wind.


This is only pic i have got from my video, of my old flying buddy from years ago, came out to a event a club was putting on and let me fly his 42% Aeroworks Extra, it was a sweet flying plane. have video but the person video sucked at it so horrible.

Originally Posted by epoweredrc

just trying to figure out all this stuff. i hooked up the 8010T to a current switch in the plane with a 6.0v ni mh battery i happen to have, and tested the throttle servo it works, not sure its moving the right way.. what is that HUGE black vent looking thing on bottom of the carb? it keeps me from being able to look inside the carb, and its got a small short fuel line running to it.

Its an air inlet snorkel. It minimizes cowling pressure differences when changind attitudes of the airframe, ie from upright to inverted. I have used them in the past, but end up removing it all together. Some live by them, some say you dont need them. 99% of the midrange issues we see with these engines can be tuned out, by running a little leaner on the L needle. But not so lean that it starves the engine for fuel when at a lower throttle setting. Ideally, you want a nice crisp transition from low to high speed with a quick stab of the throttle stick. If you get a small hesitation, almost like a lean stumble, dont adjust it right away. Let it idle down, wait 30 seconds or so, and stab it again. If it dies, richen the L needle up , depending on carb brand (Walbro carbs have a fine thread, which allows abroader range of setting for tuneability. Tillitsons have a coarse thread, which allow a finer tange of settings for tuneability. And they each have different needle point shapes too. ). Walbro carb, you should open the L needle max of 1/8 turn. Tillitson carb should be about 1/16 turn.

I wouldnt say its a science to tuning a gas engine. It iust takes ti.e and some patience to get it spot on. And the idea of, well, I'll just run it rich so that it wont die theory is just that. Running a gas engine rich is a really good way to fuel foul your plugs, and cause poor running, lack of power and unnecessary carbon build up in the engine.

Fuel mix should be 40:1 or 50:1. Depending on what you like and what oil brand you like. I use all Sthil Ultra HP, at 50:1, even in the RCGF 120 and EME 70 I own. I have good quality rings in them, and while the 70 only has acouple flights on it, it runs well! My 120 has many gallons thru it. Again, it pulls the same prop as a DA 120, just 150 or so RPM shy. So, cant be all hateful of an engine.

Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle

Its an air inlet snorkel. It minimizes cowling pressure differences when changind attitudes of the airframe, ie from upright to inverted. I have used them in the past, but end up removing it all together. Some live by them, some say you dont need them. 99% of the midrange issues we see with these engines can be tuned out, by running a little leaner on the L needle. But not so lean that it starves the engine for fuel when at a lower throttle setting. Ideally, you want a nice crisp transition from low to high speed with a quick stab of the throttle stick. If you get a small hesitation, almost like a lean stumble, dont adjust it right away. Let it idle down, wait 30 seconds or so, and stab it again. If it dies, richen the L needle up , depending on carb brand (Walbro carbs have a fine thread, which allows abroader range of setting for tuneability. Tillitsons have a coarse thread, which allow a finer tange of settings for tuneability. And they each have different needle point shapes too. ). Walbro carb, you should open the L needle max of 1/8 turn. Tillitson carb should be about 1/16 turn.

I wouldnt say its a science to tuning a gas engine. It iust takes ti.e and some patience to get it spot on. And the idea of, well, I'll just run it rich so that it wont die theory is just that. Running a gas engine rich is a really good way to fuel foul your plugs, and cause poor running, lack of power and unnecessary carbon build up in the engine.

Fuel mix should be 40:1 or 50:1. Depending on what you like and what oil brand you like. I use all Sthil Ultra HP, at 50:1, even in the RCGF 120 and EME 70 I own. I have good quality rings in them, and while the 70 only has acouple flights on it, it runs well! My 120 has many gallons thru it. Again, it pulls the same prop as a DA 120, just 150 or so RPM shy. So, cant be all hateful of an engine.

Wow thanks for all of that info. I know a guy now that is great with engines, not sure he ever fooled with a 3W i should ask. I had heard they tune different from DA.

he wants me to use amsoil in this one with non ethnal gas.

I can take or leave Amsoil..... Lots of guys like RedLine and Sthil. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

I ran Amsoil Dominator 50:1, and had a little carboning in it. Sthil I see a little less.

Tuning is tuning, regardless of engine make, size and prop. Engines tune the same, just some are a little more cantankerous than others. If I have some needles at home, I will take a pic and show the differences. Like I said in the prior post, you can take a bigger swing at the needles (turn wise) with a Walbro over the Tillitson.

Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle

I can take or leave Amsoil..... Lots of guys like RedLine and Sthil. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

I ran Amsoil Dominator 50:1, and had a little carboning in it. Sthil I see a little less.

Tuning is tuning, regardless of engine make, size and prop. Engines tune the same, just some are a little more cantankerous than others. If I have some needles at home, I will take a pic and show the differences. Like I said in the prior post, you can take a bigger swing at the needles (turn wise) with a Walbro over the Tillitson.

Yeah, I used Redline when i had my plane but he gave me a bottle of amsoil and said he wanted it used. its his engine. Said that was all he used in all his planes.
I got the fuel today and got the gas line, just have to wait for the tank and prop to get here. looks like won't be till next week. got to figure out what mix to use.

I have even noticed a difference in amount of needle movement needed for tuning between the smaller displacement and large. It seems the bigger they get the less is needed, or it could be just a difference in the needle threads. On engines 100cc and up it is as small of a movement as my fingers can make. I even got a bigger handle screwdriver, actually won' it, and it does help with the smaller adjustments.
And my 3W does not tune any different than the others, it's all in the fingers and what one is using to read the rpms.