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Old 06-19-2019, 08:29 PM
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Ohh they work really nice and Smooth, Are they Electrics? Sorry at work so have no audio
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:27 PM
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Ohh they work really nice and Smooth, Are they Electrics? Sorry at work so have no audio
Yes - electric.
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:57 AM
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John, I have one of these on order. Should be on the boat now. I already got the gear. In watching the videos of it flying the Moki seem way overkill for the airplane. I originally planned to use a DLE 170 but I'm thinking I may just use a 120 as I think it will be plenty of power and much more scalelike performance. Also the T-6 prop was 100" in diameter which translates to 25" for 1/4 scale. The Moki requires a 32" prop and in talking to Ray LaBonte the ground clearance becomes an issue. Also to my eye the 32" prop just doesn't look right. Thanks for the build thread.
I owned an SNJ-6 for 8 years and have around 500hrs in the 6. It will be interesting comparing flight performance.
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:45 PM
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Nothing to report. Picture of the drop in tail gear. It functions from a set of cables from the rudder servo in the front of the plane. I installed springs the cables to keep the lines tight with the tail wheel compressed.
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Jaketab;2858241]Getting the worst part out of the way. The plastic canopy is 1 long section required to cut into 5 sections. I used Testors Clear Parts Cement.




How did you cut the clear canopy into 5 sections without scratching, using a lexan scissors?
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:37 PM
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Nothing to report. Picture of the drop in tail gear. It functions from a set of cables from the rudder servo in the front of the plane. I installed springs the cables to keep the lines tight with the tail wheel compressed.


In the preliminary manual that i have, it says to feed those cables through the two holes in the tailwheel bracket, and they said that was important. I see that you did not do that, is there a reason for not going through those holes?
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:41 PM
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[QUOTE=Renegadeflyer;2861299]
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Getting the worst part out of the way. The plastic canopy is 1 long section required to cut into 5 sections. I used Testors Clear Parts Cement.




How did you cut the clear canopy into 5 sections without scratching, using a lexan scissors?
Renegadeflyer - glad to see you join in to compare notes.
Very carefully. I used blue painters tape to make the cut out lines. After cutting in approximate sections - overlay the frame over the canopy to mark and tape off.
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:47 PM
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In the preliminary manual that i have, it says to feed those cables through the two holes in the tailwheel bracket, and they said that was important. I see that you did not do that, is there a reason for not going through those holes?
As the tailwheel move up and down, there does not seem to be much change in geometry. I put springs in the tailwheel cables to take up the slack. Also takes the strain off the servo when taxing. Going to re-do the cables. I don't like the clevis holding the springs. Will replace with eye bolts.
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Old 06-26-2019, 05:58 AM
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Canopy. Lexan scissors, small magnets and clamps.
The Testors canopy glue is the least messy but may require a build up of 2 or more applications.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:13 AM
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Thanks for the pictures of the magnets and cutting of the canopy. Also, I agree with you I would remove the springs/clevis combo and do something different. Can't you thread a 4-40 pull pull connector like Dubro into the ball link and then drill it out a little and feed the loop in the end of the spring right through the enlarged hole? Or possibly run it through those two factory holes in the tail wheel bracket and then not use a spring at all.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:27 AM
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This is the scheme I am doing, but I don't think it is being worked on yet, I am in line.
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:46 PM
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Fitting the Moki baffle to the cowl is easy because the engine is centered. Find the center of the baffle and cut to a diameter of 13.125."
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:04 PM
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Used a laser to line up the gear. After the landing gear is fitted and adjusted, the rotating arm/shaft has to be drilled to accommodate a spring pin to lock things in place. If you get it wrong its a bad day. The pin goes through the shaft at and angle of 5 degrees. Easy work with a drill press and a jig to hold the unit in place for drilling. The Sierra gear even comes with the correct size drill bits to do the job.
The 4th picture shows where the motor unit sits in the center wing section. The ply block on top was put in to shim the unit level so the angles are correct.
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Old 07-09-2019, 10:30 PM
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The center wing section is almost ready to mount.
Opened 4 holes in the firewall (1.125") to assist in the cooling the radial engine.
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:51 PM
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More pics of the gear mechanics. Mounted with 2 screws and 2 - 4 mm bolts on the horizontal ledge. On the vertical spar with the carbon plate, there are 2 - 5 mm bolts. I drilled out the threads of 5 mm T-nuts and pasted the T-nuts in the Hysol 9462. The T-nuts should absorb less than perfect landings.

Last pic shows the guts. Throttle, choke, rudder servo, fuel pump, smoke pump, optic kill, 5800 mah battery, and ignition module. The 1 liter tanks below are positioned very close to CG. The picture includes no less than 5 lbs of plastic tie wraps.
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