Awesome! I'll be taking this with me to the field this weekend. Thanks!!

what do you think should be the rough needle settings on a de-170 cc high and low ?

Regarding the baffling, how much cooler did the engine end up running with the baffling compared to none?

Sub,ed

Hi Terry,

Thanks for your detailed info about dialing the gas engines infact I was looking for this kind of helpful info..

Do you also recommend reed valve mods and altering the timing of the engine on DLE or GP engines for better and smooth run? Please advise if it really helps in giving better results.

Originally Posted by anileshrai

Do you also recommend reed valve mods and altering the timing of the engine on DLE or GP engines for better and smooth run? Please advise if it really helps in giving better results.

No, not broke don't fix it. About all I'll add to that.

Why would the factory timing need to be changed on a DLE?

Ok I'll play,most of the DLE's come with the timing around 40 degrees.It's a common thing just have to reset it to be on the safe side, so it doesn't kick back.The only china engine that I have that was set correctly was a EME60.

Originally Posted by closetguy

Ok I'll play,most of the DLE's come with the timing around 40 degrees.It's a common thing just have to reset it to be on the safe side, so it doesn't kick back.The only china engine that I have that was set correctly was a EME60.

According to "the internet" that is true, but according to the 30 or more DLE's I've personally owned it's largely BS. Always a good idea to check though.

As for "modifying the timing for smother run" as was asked......answer stays at "NO"

This thread is not engine specific and has nothing to do with DLE, GP, DA etc. as they all tune the same. Please keep the thread on-topic so other new guy's can follow it with tuning specific questions.

What is a good temperature range for these engines? What would a "never exceed" temp be?

Thx

Originally Posted by STLAV8R

Why would the factory timing need to be changed on a DLE?

I agree with STLAV8R. Why would you have to chance the timing on the DLEs?

...

I have never and will never install telemetry for temp on my engines but it has been demonstrated that you will see spikes above 300 but with proper baffling and sensible flying it cools down extremely fast. With a careful ear you can hear when an engine starts to sag on an upline meaning it's either H needle tuning or Cooling issues.

If you engine leans out on a more or less level flight you really have issues.

It's also good to mention to make sure that your prop is within the range of the engine. I've seen a couple threads lately where people are outside of the size range for 120'ish sized engines and some on the larger engines. This is a sure fire way to generate excessive heat. Just because an engine "will" turn it, does not mean "should".

....

Originally Posted by orthobird

Hi Terry, I am re-reading this post, it is excellent. I am trying to understand the term : "Loading up".

Does this indicate that the low is too rich? meaning, as the motor is idling, fuel is pooling inside the crank case, and thus: "loading it up" with unburned fuel, and this is what requires "clearing".

and the other question is, does loading up mean this:

run motor up, to WOT, then, cut it down all the way. the motor RPM ,let's say is 1600, then, over seconds, like 20 seconds, lets say, it starts to work its way back down to 1300?

so the process of loading up decreases the idle rpm?

Correct.