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Old 06-05-2011, 11:31 PM
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help tuning a DA-60

Hello
my DA-60 is just not tuned right. i already flew it about 20 times so far, but decided to start fresh and tune it myself. I closed all needles and opened Low needle 1 1/8 and high needle 1 full turn, according to manual. Do i focus first on low needle without touching high needle. until i get good idle and snappy transition. and then move to high needle? Also, if later i start to tweaking the low needle, lets say clock wise, do i adjust the high needle equally counter clockwise
thanks for your help.
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Last edited by rcinspired; 06-06-2011 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:20 AM
STLAV8R is online now
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How was it running poorly prior to re-setting the needle valves?
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:31 AM
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I do the opposite, I tune the high for peak and then set the low. Then recheck the high. Both of my needles needed to be leaned from the initial "factory" settings.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Super08 View Post
I do the opposite, I tune the high for peak and then set the low. Then recheck the high. Both of my needles needed to be leaned from the initial "factory" settings.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:17 AM
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No xpert but I've been around engines/race cars most of my life.

These engines are perty dern simple. Its just a matter of learning what its telling you.

My way:

Get it started.

Build some heat so it tells the truth.

Set the high by going wot. Tach/adjust to peak rpm, then fatten it up till you lose 200 or so rpm. This should keep you from cookin parts.

Now start messing with the low. With a hot engine let it idle for a good solid minute. Bang the throttle to wot. In a perfect world it'll snap tp life and build rpm in a very linear fashion.

Back to earth now: it'll prolly sputter and die. If so its lean. The engine is lookin for fuel that isn't there. Open the low a pinch-bout a 16th of a turn. If it sputters and comes to life its likely still lean. I use a drag car as a good examplel. Launch the car; if it sputters its looking for fuel not there. The engine is under heavy load, rpm is low so its not building a ton of velocity to atomize the fuel. You have to run it rich to ensure enough fuel stays in suspension to make it to the cylinder. If its fat it'll trnsition but it won't be crisp. If its really fat it'll soak the plug. Especially with the cylinder pointed at the gear.

Start and repeat.

Keep going till it snaps at the butterfly opening. After this I go a pinch more as it makes the motor start easier and it ensures the thing will stay running when chopping power for various 3D manuvers.

Lean motors quit and broil plugs. Rich motors run and make the plug black.

From here you can start fiddlin w/ the midrange. If you here a burble its fat. You can lean it by making very very very small changes to the low/high needles. You must check the low/high afterward though. I say to leave the low a pinch fat so it starts well. Leave the high down 200 rpm from peak too. Engines tend to lean out a smidge in the air once the prop starts werkin. On the ground they make soup out of the air.

Listen for lean on the maiden! My advise is to tune a touch on the fat side. Especially if you do the 3D thing. Better to lose a little power and have it keep running than to pull out from a hover and have it quit!

Hope this helps

C.
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Last edited by nesikachad; 06-07-2011 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:17 AM
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Crashing sucks!
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Dup post
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:38 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to help
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