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Old 09-28-2014, 11:02 AM
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Run-In Oil

Back in the day, folks used conventional oil for run-in on a new engine, before switching to synthetic. That speeds up the ring seating process. Nowadays, the conventional wisdom seems to be running the engine on synthetic out of the box, which seems to lead to a very long break-in process for me. I was just wondering what would be wrong with doing it the old school way, running it on dinosaur juice initially?
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:06 AM
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Sigh...really?
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has more to do with the quality of the ring than it does the oil.
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_Cal View Post
I was just wondering what would be wrong with doing it the old school way, running it on dinosaur juice initially?
Nothing at all...other than having to mix/have two different fuel mixes for our models...just not convenient enough for some of us anymore...especially those of us that have multiple models going at one time.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:04 PM
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problem with running Mineral oil for break in is that with more metal to metal contact you have to exercise more care in how you conduct the breaking in. Synthetic allows a wider tolerance and is proven to deliver a more effective bedding in of the engine especially with higher compression engines and tighter manufacturing tolerances
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:07 PM
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What does your engine manual say for the break in process?
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:43 PM
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Has anyone used Blendzall...?
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Old 09-28-2014, 06:47 PM
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Not since the 70's....
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Old 09-28-2014, 08:53 PM
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Also why carbon it up anymore than you have to. The synthetics we run today ,with a properly tuned engine will dang near keep your engines inside lookin like new. The little bit extra bit of breakin time isnt something thats gonna make that much difference in the long run. Use Redline or Sthil etc at the recomended mix for your engine and the prop your gonna fly...tweak your needles for a good top end,transition and idle and go fly it. The best way to break it in IMO.
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_Cal View Post
Back in the day, folks used conventional oil for run-in on a new engine, before switching to synthetic. That speeds up the ring seating process. Nowadays, the conventional wisdom seems to be running the engine on synthetic out of the box, which seems to lead to a very long break-in process for me. I was just wondering what would be wrong with doing it the old school way, running it on dinosaur juice initially?
I always break mine in on Pennzoil Air Cooled at 32:1 then go to Redline after that. Just finishing up with a new DLE 35RA. One gallon will do on this one. Normally run 2 or 3 gallons through a 55. I did my 55 like that and after 20 gallons of Redline it was spotless inside. Set the needles like you normally would and put it in the air.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:04 AM
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This is a new DA-35 and DA-60, and DA recommends Redline from the start. Two years ago, I started flying a new DA-150 on Redline, and the rings still haven't full seated in that motor; beginning to wonder when they finally will. I think I have about six to eight gallons through the DA-150. So I'm thinking about using something like Pennzoil Air Cooled for the break in of these two new engines.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:25 AM
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if the rings haven't seated then there is something else wrong.
what makes you think the rings have not seated? Low compression?
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:27 AM
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if the rings haven't seated then there is something else wrong.
what makes you think the rings have not seated? Low compression?
Can't tune the burble out of the midrange without getting dead-sticks.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:32 AM
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then leave the burble where it wants to be. The burble doesn't have anything to do with the rings not being seated. The Burble is a function of engine design, loading and state of tune. What props you running?
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:41 PM
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then leave the burble where it wants to be. The burble doesn't have anything to do with the rings not being seated. The Burble is a function of engine design, loading and state of tune. What props you running?
My DA 120 burbled until I adjusted both LS and HS needles to "just right"! Always adjust the needles as per the DA manual - these gas engines are not like glow engines where you run them rich! Gas engines are tuned to perfect or almost perfect from the get go otherwise you run the risk of getting them carboned up!
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:04 PM
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I'm using a 32x10 wood. I think I have a 32x12 I could try to see if that loads it up better, but I wouldn't expect that to be the optimum prop for 3d on a 31 lb plane.

The needles are set according to the manulal, and it runs at average CHT of 270*F. I can close the LS needle just a hair more cleaning up the midrange pretty good, but then I start getting a deadstick now and then, which can be bad if it happens at just the wrong time. So I just let it run rich through the midrange, and change plugs often.

Another guy in my local club suggested that perhaps it never got broke in all the way on the synthentic oil I use, so was starting to think he must be right.
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Last edited by Low_Cal; 09-29-2014 at 02:25 PM.
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