Originally Posted by AKNick

The last two DLE55RA's and a DLE20 I received had Walbro casted into the plate, My older DLE35RA had DLE casted onto it. Are some clones 100% cloned including the casting marks from another manufacture? Interesting.


How about power to weight DLE55 vs EME60? I always thought the EME's were on the heavy side?

Dle: 3.5 lbs
EME 3.7 Lbs

Pretty small difference.

If you look closely at a DLE clone and a real Walbro, every part is just a tiny bit different but the differences are noticable. Walbros have always had inspection and unique casting marks that were lacking on the clones. More than likely, there are clones out there that say Walbro on them. My bet is that Walbro, being produced in China made their pricing attractive enough to the engine builders that it was easier to go that route than to use a clone. Just guessing, though it is almost always a follow the $$ game.

Many years ago when Chinese manufacturing was just starting to come on strong, I had a brother in law who was a purchasing agent for a large company. He met with Chinese representatives of large parts companies there. He was amazed, set back, etc. when they told him they could duplicate most any component he wanted right down to inspection marks, trademarks, U/L or other certification marks, etc. Being very ethical, he declined to buy from them at that time. Point here being that anything is possible.

How about that dj 72cc v2? Mile high has a 18 month warranty on it he says it's a good engine.

I also have a DJ 2 V1 about 1.5 years old. I have not flown it in 6 or months runs like the EME 60 if you want a used one $225 shipped to you USPS Express. I am only flying 120cc and up so I am selling my smaller stuff now.

Its a DJ Seventy Two, I cannot get the seven to work on my keyboard

I have to stop posting before I finish typing, If the crowd thinks thats a fair price, I have used Redline at 32-1 only. Engine runs strong and dependable. If you want to consider used, already broken in.

Didn't the v1 have problems that were supposed to be corrected in the second version?

Originally Posted by 3Dhuckin

How about that dj 72cc v2? Mile high has a 18 month warranty on it he says it's a good engine.

Funny you should bring up the DJ72GTS in this EME thread. Not a problem, but I say funny because surely more than myself have noticed the close, close look of the DJ72 to the look of the EME. Everyone was reporting the smooth, user friendly operation of the DJ72, .. So I contacted DJ and asked them straight up, ...( before I purchased mine from MileHigh) ..."If their engine was manufactured by EME?" They replied that ... no it was not, however the design engineer for EME also did the design engineering for their DJ72, and thus the similar appearance of the two. Explains as well why they both are so smooth and user friendly.

I got an EME60 a few months ago and had the dle55 about 10 years ago.

DLE55
I was always happy with the dle, the power was manageable and linear. No need to use the throttle curve. It was very easy to start and never gave me any trouble after about 2 years of flying hard.

EME60
I only have about 20 flights on it. The thing I hate about it is it kicks back when I start it. I didn't know this the first thing I started it and it really hurt my hand, now I use a paint roller to start it and sometimes it gets knocked out of my hand and goes flying across the field. Once it's running it runs great but the power is a little on the touchy side, kinda overpowered. Anything over 1/4 throttle is pretty much WFO. I am using a very short arm and the inside hole on the servo. I didn't put a longer arm on the carb, just using it the way it came witch should be long enough. I am using a throttle curve.

The dle was on a quique 85" Yak with a Vess 23A and the eme is on a eg mx2 89" with a Vess 24A and now a falcon carbon 24x8.

Wouldn't the kickback be related to the timing being off?

Another thing I don't like about the eme is its to long. I had to cut a lot off of the standoffs then cut a hole in the firewall for the carb to go in.

Originally Posted by 3Dhuckin

Wouldn't the kickback be related to the timing being off?

Probably but shouldn't it come set out of the box? It runs awesome once it's running.

I was talking to Tom from valley view last week about a dle111 I just got that's used and they cut the plug off of the hall sensor. I was asking about his timing tools because I'm going to replace the hall sensor. He said don't bother, just screw it on in the middle and it will run perfect. I guess it's not really an exact science with these engines.

I got my dle55 and eme60 new brend new.

Originally Posted by 3Dhuckin

Wouldn't the kickback be related to the timing being off?

... Or perhaps it has one of the new "black box" EME HV ignitions and less than 6.3V is being supplied to it? I think this new ignition is being used by EME, DJ, & GP. Plenty has been written about the GP kicking back when less than 6.6V is supplied to the ignition on the newer black HV ignitions.

Originally Posted by Mitsu1

... Or perhaps it has one of the new "black box" EME HV ignitions and less than 6.3V is being supplied to it? I think this new ignition is being used by EME, DJ, & GP. Plenty has been written about the GP kicking back when less than 6.6V is supplied to the ignition on the newer black HV ignitions.

This might be the problem. I'm using the tech aero ibec set unregulated by pulling both caps off. Using a 922 power safe receiver with 2 duralite a123 2300mah. I only do 2 11 minute flights before changing. Hitec 7955s on everything.

Originally Posted by louu

This might be the problem. I'm using the tech aero ibec set unregulated by pulling both caps off. Using a 922 power safe receiver with 2 duralite a123 2300mah. I only do 2 11 minute flights before changing. Hitec 7955s on everything.

If I'm correct, the standard Tech Aero can be set as low as 5.0V. Try setting it to it's highest voltage, and see if that helps. I'm thinking this is your issue. The new ignitions are black and have a "hump" on one end.