DL-50, DLE-55, 3MM 53 TOC, GF40I, XYZ 50-HP, XYZ 50A, DLE-30, SPE-26, SPE-40, and it runs great on all of them.

Ok so I finally have my set up for my ignition and rx. please let me know if i'm right or wrong or any tips.

I plan to use a 5 cell pack 2000mah for my ignition with a regulator, and a separate 5 cell pack 3200mah for my rx, also with a regulator.

Am I looking ok there so far or should I do something else?

Originally Posted by ibanezex718

Ok so I finally have my set up for my ignition and rx. please let me know if i'm right or wrong or any tips.

I plan to use a 5 cell pack 2000mah for my ignition with a regulator, and a separate 5 cell pack 3200mah for my rx, also with a regulator.

Am I looking ok there so far or should I do something else?

Why are you regulating? I am assuming that by saying "5 cell" you are using Nicad's? If so, use a 4 cell 4.8v 1500mah on the ignition and you won't need the regulator. You do not want to exceed 6 volts on your ignition, so by using the 4.8v pack, you will stay in the recomended range without the regulator. There is no need to regulate the 5 cell 6v on the receiver,,,,,,unless you just like spending money of course. I have pretty much this same setup in mine and have had zero problems. Just my .02 cents of course,,,I am sure others will not agree.

Good luck,,,,have fun!

Originally Posted by ibanezex718

Ok so I finally have my set up for my ignition and rx. please let me know if i'm right or wrong or any tips.

I plan to use a 5 cell pack 2000mah for my ignition with a regulator, and a separate 5 cell pack 3200mah for my rx, also with a regulator.

Am I looking ok there so far or should I do something else?

Get a 4 cell 4.8 for the EI and run it unregulated. Run the 5 cell for the Rx unregulated, unless your Rx isn't rated for 6.0 of course.

The only thing I would add to what "imhooked" stated is: you have a built in redundancy system for Rx power, but you're only using one battery. Personally I use two 1200 mah a123 s instead of one 2400 that many people use. No regulator on Rx. Just cheap insurance, and you are all set up for it anyway.

Rishelman

Nevermind, he said he was "looking" at Smart-Fly PE, I thought he had one.
Rishelman

Originally Posted by Al Lewis

I think you'll find that the Futaba 7 channel won't support dual elevator servos. You'll need a Y reverser for the elevators.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8&I=LXAFN1&P=K

I am using the 7C with dual elavator servos....no problems there. Just FYI.

Just run off of channels 2 and 5 and use the ailavator function on your radio as described on page, I believe, 45 in the manual. Easy enough.

Also, instead of using an ignition cut off, you can also just use the throttle cut function on your radio. Works just as well.

Ignition cut-off is mainly in case there is a problem with your throttle servo. It is also convenient in other ways. There are plenty of threads here on FG discussing the safety and sometimes requirement of a way to kill the engine other than throttle servo alone. It does work....as long as it's working. Food for thought.

Rishelman

Originally Posted by imhooked

Also, instead of using an ignition cut off, you can also just use the throttle cut function on your radio. Works just as well.

Not a good idea. You should have a cut-off switch to the ignition that you can work from your Tx.

Originally Posted by Rishelman

Ignition cut-off is mainly in case there is a problem with your throttle servo. It is also convenient in other ways. There are plenty of threads here on FG discussing the safety and sometimes requirement of a way to kill the engine other than throttle servo alone. It does work....as long as it's working. Food for thought.

Rishelman

I can agree with that.

Ok so taken from what was said..... would there be an easy way to run dual batteries on the rx with a regulator and run the EI unregulated on a 4 cell with an ignition cut off in place instead of the regulator?

Also, I've seen some setups where you run dual batteries into a y-harness, then into a regulator, then to a switch and finally to a receiver. Does this actually work or am I crazy?

Originally Posted by ibanezex718

Also, I've seen some setups where you run dual batteries into a y-harness, then into a regulator, then to a switch and finally to a receiver. Does this actually work or am I crazy?

You might want to use a "Batt Share" from Smart-Fly, not a Y-Harness. From my understanding - If the one Batt dumps and you are Y'd, the good batt tries to push charge into the dead batt to get the voltage back up, so in essence, you other pack would dump pretty quick too. Or at least that's the way it was explained to me when I was looking at going that route.

I use a Wolverine switch from Fromeco. It is a dual rudundant failsafe switch. Kindof spendy ($65), but it lets u use two batteries, drawing from them equally, fails in the "on" position, and has a relatively small footprint. So if u combine the cost of a "Bat-Share" and two switches, it's pretty close, and it's a much cleaner install.

I use A123 batts, so I have an optic kill and regulator in line to ignition. I also use a hard switch, but you could leave that out for simplicity and just use the switch on the Tx to turn on/off ign power. But you would have to unplug something to charge (which is why I decided to go with MPI switch w/charge jack).

There are a few ways to do it, weigh your options, decide what you like, and what you can afford, and do what works for you. hope this helps

Rishelman

Ok, so I finally got her all put together and put her in the air. Everything is great, flies like a dream. My only question is on the break-in for a dle-55 how much fuel at 32:1 should I run before I should change to 40:1 or 50:1?