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Old 11-01-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dshriver View Post
Just remember that gassers vibrate. Even twins vibrate a surprising amount. These vibrations are the enemy of everything in the plane. You can minimize the vibrations by making sure to balance your prop and spinner extremely well. Balance them in every direction and as a complete assembly.

Locktite everything. Every bolt needs a dab of blue locktite or a nylon threaded nut. I also use bonded washers under nearly every bolt.

Keep your wires from moving. 3D planes have a way of throwing around everything inside them. Make sure everything is strapped down and nothing can move. All servo extensions should have a keeper or a piece of shrink tube over them. All the wires, tubing, tanks, etc should be strapped down in a way that keeps them from moving. All fuel tubing needs SS wire, clips or some other retention method at each connection.

Be careful of chaffing. The vibration will cause wires and tubing to chaff, especially if its against a sharp edge. I avoid zip ties for the same reason. A tight zip tie can eventually cut through the soft insulation of a wire. I use foam wire keepers and Velcro only on my wires.

Soft mount what you can. Make sure you use the grommets in your servo mounts. Also use something as a vibration damper for your ignition, receiver, and other electronics. I like the Kyosho Zeal adhesive sheet, but there are other good ways.

Go over the entire airframe with glue. Vibrations will loosen joints and sometimes the factory doesn't apply enough glue. Go over every joint you can reach with thin CA.
SPOT ON....I'd just like to add a cpl things I do....put some padding under the fuel tank and like said above go over the plane with CA.....even drop down into the wings on the joints as far as you can aim.
Oh...and don't cheep out on your switches...the vibration can kill even a good switch.

Good luck...
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:19 AM
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And pre-flight everything. I recently had a left wing servo die on a 6 week old plane with new servos. I caught it before the second flight of the day.
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:33 AM
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Wow, that's a ton of info and tips I didn't know! Thanks alot guys, this is awesome. What switches do you recommend? And do you all paint/epoxy the motor mount/area inside the cowl, or is that not necessary?
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:37 AM
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I read that you're supposed to coat the motor mount area, but also read somewhere on here I think that EF does that in the factory. Is that true or false?
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:12 AM
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Bill switches are somewhat dependent on your radio set up. For example many of us use the spektrum powersafe receiver with the supplied soft switch.
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:40 AM
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Bill switches are somewhat dependent on your radio set up. For example many of us use the spektrum powersafe receiver with the supplied soft switch.
+1
Boomarc.com has some interesting switches for our brothers that don't or can't use the Powersafe receivers. The wireless key fob switch is very cool!
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:05 PM
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Ok, well I have a Futaba 14sg on the way, I've always flown with Futaba and had good success with them, but was time to upgrade from the 72 mHz. I will look it up, but does futaba have the powersafe receiver, or not?
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:38 PM
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Ok, well I have a Futaba 14sg on the way, I've always flown with Futaba and had good success with them, but was time to upgrade from the 72 mHz. I will look it up, but does futaba have the powersafe receiver, or not?
No.
They had a 7018 but it was discontinued.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:33 PM
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You can coat the firewall with thinned epoxy, balsarite, etc. I use automotive engine primer. The newer style planes with CF motor boxes don't need it though.

I fly Futaba too. I'd recommend some kind of battery sharing switch, or a power expander. Powerbox, Smartfly, BoomRC, XPS all make great power expanders.

On a 70cc I do like a power expander, but its very hotly debated.

The simple solution would be a Wolverine switch from Fromeco https://fromeco-scale-avionics-llc.m...lverine-switch
or a AR Multi Switch from Booma http://www.boomarc.com/sw/multi-switch

Use two LiPo batteries (2S with 2000-3000mah each) into the battery sharing switch or power expander. Either system will offer a switch that fails to the on position and will isolate the batteries so if one fails it will not drain the other one.

You can use a 3rd battery and switch for the ignition if you want to. Powerbox spark switch will allow you to control it from the receiver. The more popular option, and the one I recommend, is to use a Tech Aero IBEC which will allow you to power the ignition from the receiver as well as turn it on and off via the transmitter all without the use of an extra battery.

Your 14SG with the included 7008 receiver will do a great job on the Laser!
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dshriver View Post

I fly Futaba too. I'd recommend some kind of battery sharing switch, or a power expander. Powerbox, Smartfly, BoomRC, XPS all make great power expanders.

On a 70cc I do like a power expander, but its very hotly debated.

Thanks again for the tons of info guys, y’all have been a huge help already!
I was thinking about one of the Smartfly power expanders, one of my buddies likes his. What is the debate on these, are there any negatives on running power expanders?
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:29 PM
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Thanks again for the tons of info guys, y’all have been a huge help already!
I was thinking about one of the Smartfly power expanders, one of my buddies likes his. What is the debate on these, are there any negatives on running power expanders?
Probably don't need an expander, but if you decide to ..I have one Nib ...also have a NIB Fiber optic ign kill . Holler at me if your interested. I'm not gonna use it... together they cost me $179.00 + shipping.....I'll make you a good deal on it....but like I said , you really could go without it.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:48 PM
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Power expanders...

Group A says they are not needed. They add weight and complexity to a system. They solve a problem that doesn't exsist

Group B says they are needed once a plane reaches a certain size. This is typically 50cc+. They provide the power needed by large power servos. Standard servo connectors are limited to 5amps and this is not enough to drive multiple large servos. They provide features and safety required for large models.

I'm in group B but many people with years of experience who I greatly respect are in group A. (hi Judge!)
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:08 PM
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the futaba on line support guy is Bill, aka Judge. He can guide you in the right direction with respect to a receiver. He is not big on power expanders. You'll be fine without one. He and I are definitely from Group A.
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Old 11-02-2019, 12:02 AM
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I would still run 2 batts and 2 switches.. on 50cc I would not run a power expander.. just my opinion
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Old 11-02-2019, 06:30 AM
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I would still run 2 batts and 2 switches.. on 50cc I would not run a power expander.. just my opinion
Ok- I'll have a 70cc though, would that change anything or not?

Thanks alot for your input everyone! It seems both sides have valid points. I will keep reading and thinking about it. Generally I tend to err on the side of caution, which would say put the power expander in, but on the other hand, if it really is not needed, it's a waste of money. I'll keep dwelling on that

Either way I go, I'm definitely running two batteries.
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