Greetings Giants , I have run out of these push rod couplings, and can't find a vender,if you know who sells them please give me a holler, I can make some but it would be very time consuming, -----RW

These are used inside CF tubes:
https://www.centralhobbies.com/singleprod.php?id=1802

These seem like more of what you are looking for:
https://thunderboltrc.com/index.php?...roducts_id=679

Found these at Aloft for 3mm and 4mm CF rod - unfortunately only 2mm threaded ends
https://alofthobbies.com/collections...rol-rod-end-m2
https://alofthobbies.com/collections...rol-rod-end-m2

Jackpot! - look towards the middle of this page for the MP Jet pushrod ends
https://www.espritmodel.com/clevises...ds.aspx?page=3

Thank you all, trying to gather the parts and pieces for a new plane ,FLYING GIANTS ARE THE GOOD GUYS!
Information much appreciated. -----RW

https://flightcomp.com/collections/linkage-couplers

The ones that are external to the CF tube are stronger than the ones that glue into the ID.

Originally Posted by RCAddiction

These are used inside CF tubes:
https://www.centralhobbies.com/singleprod.php?id=1802

These seem like more of what you are looking for:
https://thunderboltrc.com/index.php?...roducts_id=679

Found these at Aloft for 3mm and 4mm CF rod - unfortunately only 2mm threaded ends
https://alofthobbies.com/collections...rol-rod-end-m2
https://alofthobbies.com/collections...rol-rod-end-m2

Jackpot! - look towards the middle of this page for the MP Jet pushrod ends
https://www.espritmodel.com/clevises...ds.aspx?page=3

I ued the Central Hobbies CF/titanium link types on an 50cc airframe for 12 seasons. Glued properly with JB weld or Hysol they are near bulletproof.


The other option thats cheaper and evenstronger is some carbon tube as a sleeve over a length of all-thread.

Originally Posted by ghoffman

The ones that are external to the CF tube are stronger than the ones that glue into the ID.

I would think that’s highly dependent upon the specific items compared rather than a valid general statement, as well as the definition of “stronger”. Some of the internal units are simply impossible to separate while also adding considerable strength to the cf rod.

While I have used the Central Hobbies pushrod ends, I usually have used what JHarkin suggested. Tom Fawcett at WildHare had it in his ARF manuals, which may be where I first learned about it 20 yrs ago. I've made these in both 2-56 and 4-40 size.

Here's a 4-40 sized example pictured on the rudder of a Radiocraft Extra. Buy CF tube that fits, without slop, over a 4-40 threaded rod. Using a small tubing cutter, cut small rings of aluminum or brass tubing that slide over the cut ends of the CF tube. CA the metal tube rings in place. They keep the CF from ever splitting. Then lock rod in place within the CF sleeve using w4-40 nuts, which I usually CA'd as well.

The nice part is that you don't have to worry about epoxy failing and having the pushrod end come off (which I've only personally seen from a crash). It's easy to make a custom length, strong and very rigid pushrod using this method. Obviously, it will work equally well with metric threaded rods...you just need to size the CF tube accordingly.

The ID ones
- are one piece titanium
- their OD is the same OD as pushrod so easy to insert/remove
- pushrod is hollow so lighter?
- I use hysol, manufacturer recommends IC-2000.
- standard threads only - bad

I never used the OD ones but
- is pushrod solid CF?
- remove ends when removing pushrods?
- possible to over tighten the set screws and compromise the CF?
wonder which pushrod is stiffer and which one is heavier?

Both are nice, neat, and good solutions when pushrods are involved.

Now I wish the ID ones made left hand threads so I could make turnbuckles!

Originally Posted by ghoffman

The ones that are external to the CF tube are stronger than the ones that glue into the ID.

The key with the central hobbies pushrods is careful prep and GOOD adhesive.


I used to use tiny pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol to clean the inside of the rod, and when both rough sanded the Ti end and cleaned that also. CH recommended JBWeld and I used that with good results, and I also used the super slow cure structural hysol.


I would mix up the epoxy, use a pin to shove a bunch down in the tube, and then also coat the rod end. Then insert them. After that you had to either hold the ends in with clamps or wrap some tape around hte entire thing while it cured as the epoxy makes the ends airtight and the trapped air wants to just push the ends out.


Frankly, these days I just do the all thread method.... the extra weight savings of the CH type is negligible on a 50-150cc...






(FWIW we also make CF tail rotor pushrods for helis this way. A lot less torque of course but a tremendous rate of high frequency motion from the gyro.)

I know! Negible weight, I Just think they look cool.
-----RW and

Originally Posted by highhorse

I would think that’s highly dependent upon the specific items compared rather than a valid general statement, as well as the definition of “stronger”. Some of the internal units are simply impossible to separate while also adding considerable strength to the cf rod.

I say that because the bond surface area is much greater and the CF tubing has very low hoop strength (especially in bending). Also, no matter how well you clean the ID it does not bond as well as a fine (Scotch brite, etc) scuffing of the OD.
Besides, I have broken both types! I used to use them both, but these days I’ve gone to a threaded rod with the carbon over it to add bending stiffness.

I Just completed a pole of my immediate family, And they think carbon fiber push rods. ARE WAY KOOL! And I should continue to have them if I want!!! ----RW

Originally Posted by RCAddiction

While I have used the Central Hobbies pushrod ends, I usually have used what JHarkin suggested. Tom Fawcett at WildHare had it in his ARF manuals, which may be where I first learned about it 20 yrs ago. I've made these in both 2-56 and 4-40 size.

Here's a 4-40 sized example pictured on the rudder of a Radiocraft Extra. Buy CF tube that fits, without slop, over a 4-40 threaded rod. Using a small tubing cutter, cut small rings of aluminum or brass tubing that slide over the cut ends of the CF tube. CA the metal tube rings in place. They keep the CF from ever splitting. Then lock rod in place within the CF sleeve using w4-40 nuts, which I usually CA'd as well.

The nice part is that you don't have to worry about epoxy failing and having the pushrod end come off (which I've only personally seen from a crash). It's easy to make a custom length, strong and very rigid pushrod using this method. Obviously, it will work equally well with metric threaded rods...you just need to size the CF tube accordingly.

+1 on the Wild Hare method. Been doing that for years ever since buying my first Wild Hare plane. Cheap, easy, look nice and 100% reliable. What's not to like and you can make them to any length you want. I use them on everything that doesn't have an all metal turn buckle supplied in the box.

Originally Posted by Truckracer

+1 on the Wild Hare method. Been doing that for years ever since buying my first Wild Hare plane. Cheap, easy, look nice and 100% reliable. What's not to like and you can make them to any length you want. I use them on everything that doesn't have an all metal turn buckle supplied in the box.

Same here. I make them if I don’t like the supplied hardware. Bulletproof design.

LJ