Vern, you selling the needle valves for the DA-60 yet?

They should be available in about a month. Finally got a carb and measured the OEM needles.

Originally Posted by planecajun

Yep, ive definitely looked at those Vern. havent pulled the trigger on them yet, but it wont be long. I promised the wife i would slow down a bit. I've been spending way too much on airplanes.....LOL

Can never spend too much on planes........inparticularly durring winter

Pictures???!!!

@rooman.........i know that, and you know that.................but my wife doesnt know that.

Mithrandie, next time I have the cowl off I'll take some pictures.

Here is a .pdf file explaining some of the recent changes to our tail wheel product line. It also compares our tail wheels to two other quality tail wheels currently available.

Mithrandir,

Here are some pictures of the mixture control set up.

Vern

Vern, I have your tail wheel assembly for a 40%er and it a beautiful piece of work. I bought both type of tail wheels, the hard and soft compound. When I tried to take out the center bolt/axel it wouldn't come out and stripped out the Allen head on the bolt. I'm going to put a slot in the head and hopefully get it out with a slotted screwdriver. I what to get replacement bolt for it before I try that. Can you tell me what size bolt I need and do you put it in with locktite?

Originally Posted by Vern Smith

Mithrandir,

Here are some pictures of the mixture control set up.

Vern

Vern
Looks great! I like the idea of the servo on the carb for the throttle and the mixture adjustment!

Big A

Nicoflyer,

The screw is a 4-40 button head cap screw and I do put them in with loctite. Heat will loosen Loctite's grip. You might want to put a soldering iron onto the head of the screw and heat it up some before trying to get it out. Let it cool down before trying to take it out, whatever loosening of the bond you have achieved will not re-establish itself. If you get it too hot you can melt the bushings. If you do melt the bushings they are easily replaced.

If you used one of the ball drivers with the round end designed to work at an angle that will explain some the problem. The button head cap screws do not have have as much depth for the driver to project into in the first place, and the Bondhaus style ends on the driver have a minimal amount of area exposed to the screw cavity. Kind of double trouble. The same thing can happen if the end of a flat end driver is worn and rounded.

If all else fails return it to me for repair.

Vern

I no longer have any 100cc engines, but do have the Throttle/Choke servo plate, and 85-100-120 White Rose Needles.

Questions are;

I see the download for the Throttle/Choke servo plate on the website, but not the product.
Is the product not offered aymore?
I'd like to sell the setup and refer to the website.
It is new and never mounted as in the picture.

I also have the 85-100-120 needles.
One needle is larger thread than the other, and I have two of the smaller thread, and one of the
larger thread.
Which is high, and which is lo so I can market them appropriately.

Thanks for any help
Bob

Anyone??????

Bob,

The differences are quite small so for me to be of any help you will have to have access to a micrometer or a good quality vernier.

Vern

OK, let me know what you want me to measure.

How about the throttle plate?
Is it still available?
Did it work?

What is it worth?

Thanks
Bob

Can you help me sir?