After waiting for five months for my package to be found and delivered, I will finally get to start on my ESM MIG-3.

I had been looking for years to find a new Giant Scale MIG-3 from any manufacturer with no luck, there just aren't many options. I was about to pull the trigger on a Blazing Wings (http://www.blazingwings.com/page21.html) when this ESM popped up.

I do currently have a very old version of this same model, but it's showing its age and was put together by someone else who doesn't have my build standards. It is such a cool airframe that I had to have another...

So, over the next few weeks I will turn my attention to getting this bird put together and determine which powerplant to use.

I'm struggling with what to power it with. My current version has a DLE55 which pulls the plane extremely well, but lacks the audio track.

I would like to fit a twin if I can. I do have a DLA64 inline twin that sounds amazing, and I also have a Moki 360 inline twin that I have yet to use.

I will break out the tape measure and see what works.

If anyone has any other "cool" engine recommendations for me to consider, please let me know. I'm looking for something that will have plenty of power, but also have a great sound.

I would also consider a 4 stroke twin, but limited options there. I have a Roto 85FSI, but there is no way that would fit. The NGH 60 twin looks cool, but I think limited on power? and then NGH quality??

So, decisions decisions......

If I have any hope of shoehorning a twin into this airframe, I'm going to need to perform some serious surgery.

Stock clearance from the firewall to cowl is 6.5", the shortest twin (DLA64), requires a minimum of 7.75". Looks like I have two options:

1. Cut 1.25" off the firewall and fiberglass a new firewall to the fuselage

2. Extend the cowl

I'm leaning to option 1 as all of the work would be concealed behind the cowl and the stock appearance remains.

Has anyone performed a similar mod? I'm looking for some guidance (pros/cons) before I modify a brand new airframe.

And yes, the sound and performance of the inline twin is worth the additional effort.

I would do option 1 push the firewall back and keep all concealed.......I hate a cut up Cowl .

Originally Posted by Justwantafly

I would do option 1 push the firewall back and keep all concealed.......I hate a cut up Cowl .

Totally agree... This is a little more challenging being a fiberglass fuse and lopping the nose off.... it does give me a little bit of a pucker factor as parts are hard to come by in the event of an error!!

I'm up for the task. Measure 12 times and cut once... Yikes!!

Nice How about a 85cc inline like the Roto motor?

Originally Posted by The Hodge

Nice How about a 85cc inline like the Roto motor?

As much as I like the Roto, that motor is HUGE!! I was able to get it in the P40, but there was an adjustable firewall that allowed plenty of adjustment. There's noway I could get that to fit in the MIG without some butchery!

I think the DLA64 is the best option, I can spin the cylinder heads around putting both the carbs and headers on the same side, which then gives me the necessary clearance to keep everything in the cowl.

The Moki is 1 1/4 inches longer than the DLA, but the carb is on the bottom of the crank so it's more streamline, but longer!!

Power is similar between the two, so I have to go with which ever fits best... Stay tuned, I will break out the tape over the weekend.

Yeah i agree go the Dla seams to be the best option, and you already have it

Originally Posted by The Hodge

Yeah i agree go the Dla seams to be the best option, and you already have it

Plus it sounds AWESOME!!

May 25, 2020 (0 min 24 sec)

It has been decided, I plan on moving the firewall back to accommodate the additional space needed for the DLE-64.

When I spin the heads and pistons on the DLA, it puts both the exhaust and the carbs on the same side saving almost 2 inches of clearance. That will enable the entire motor assembly to fit within the cowl then leaving me the challenge of adequate cooling and baffles!!

I'm trying to sneak this build in after the Krill Extra 330SC, which is almost complete other than CG for battery placement and baffles.

When you cut the firewall, do not cut at the fiberglass. Mark a rectangle near firewall center that's big enough to get you the clearance needed. If the fuselage is anything like the ESM mustang I had its very thin, and prone to cracking, badly.
Make an inverse mounting box instead, using the remaining firewall to mount gussets to the box for strength.
If ESM has improved the quality of the fuselage 'glass then ignore. My mustang was one of the first 30 sold in the US..there were....issues.
I had an 85 cc single in it but a friend put an inline twin in his and had to do what you are about to. He cut at the glass first fuselage..it cracked 8 inches long down the length of the fuselage at what we assumed was a joint in the glass fabric..ESM replaced it as "faulty" he did the inverse box on the second fuselage and had no problems. He layered 4 sheets of 1/8th ply and two layers of 1/8th for the joiners to original firewall, reinforced that with 4 Oz glass on the back side with gussets and moved the servo tray back two inches. He got three flights out if it...fourth flight he decided to do a WOT low pass (first one on his new engine) and the stabs started to flutter..then seperated.... augered at an estimated 120 mph based on radar speed mid pass of 123...
Hysol your stabs, reinforce the fuselage there if you can...again, unless ESM has made improvements it will be worth it. Weight wise, he had to add a bit of lead in the tail cuz of the twin. His mustang weighed in at just under 30..mine at 26..
I left the hobby for 8 years, wife had to fight big C and sold all my planes and gear. He bought my ESM 'stang. A year later, he lost an aileron servo in it doing a barrel roll. It spun in at idle but pretty much destroyed the fuselage.
He's now waiting to see how my Hanger 9 flies. He thinks someone keeps cursing any mustang he tries to own for longer than a year. Yet his Extra is the same one he had when I met the guy...
Oh yeah..the other spot to watch..again, ignore if they've improved was the vertical fin..you could literally pinch both sides together and get them to touch..of you have the access, try to shoe horn in a couple of light ply ribs. Even with Robert hinges and a centering jig..at max recommended throw you could see the fiberglass just start to bow about a half inch in from the rudder hinge line...on the mustangs there was only the small access through to opening for the tail wheel so without cutting the fin and opening it up, there wasn't much that could be done.
I shied away from ESM this time because of those issues. Never even considered buying another one. Wing covering was brittle. Had to recover it during the build..goid thing..half the wing joints were barely glued. You could flex the wing and watch the joints seperate..we hysoled it all and never had a wing issue. We assumed too much heat was used while covering at the factory.