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Build Log
70cc PAU Extra 300SP build...
http://flypau.com/index.php?main_pag...&products_id=9
I got this plane a couple months ago so I'd have it when I was between other projects this Winter. Well, looks like now is that time, waiting for my Viper to show up so I can start a fresh build thread on that so I have just enough time to crack this out! I pondered this plane several times but after seeing Kal fly his at XFC this summer, I was sold!!! Pretty sweet little plane with great specs and with a DA70 for power it will be crazy!! If you haven't seen the whole vid, check it out, Kal really let it rip!!
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By the looks of it from the video of Kal it does in fact fit. I can't honestly remember. |
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Some pics and details from the un-boxing:
Note, parts come all wrapped and neatly packed but I unwrapped this after receiving it to inspect and also let it acclimate. Some of the items I'm using are up for debate, but the main components are all set. - First is the DA70 (why not). J&A mufflers are the best (IMHO), so they are a must. And through my own observations I prefer the Falcon 25x8W prop for the type of flying that I enjoy. - Next MKS servos, I through the beating I put on my others this summer I have yet to find anything that centers as well and and equal quality in such a reasonably priced servo. 777's and 1250 on throttle for this bird. Herve has MKS products on his site so check them out while you are there! www.flypau.com - I'm a Spektrum flyer so I'm using the standard 9ch RX, I'm using Pulse 2S Lipos which I've been really having great luck with. I'm using a Booma hidden switch, that is basically a dual lead in / out with a built in batt share, pin/flag switch with an LED indicator (https://duraliteflightsystems.com/in...product_id=455) My HD extensions, Tech Aero IBEC and Falcon prop are from www.flyboysrc.com, check them out! New and expanding inventory and amazing service, they will be an up and coming company to keep your eye on. - I'm up in the air on fuel system, I got this plane before Herve started including fuel tanks, but I do have one from him. I'm pondering a 32oz tank like I used in my old EF Extra or going to a more sensible 24" which I had planned for this plane (smart water bottle with PSP cap and fittings). I also had a tailwheel on hand but Herve's new carbon tail wheels are really nice. I'm going to use whichever gives me adequate rudder dragging protection for the rudder. I will be using a no-limitz spinner from PAU, that I may paint to match the plane. - Rest is pretty standard PAU quality. Dubro style pin hinges, medium to dense balsa longerons (9 of them in this plane), canister ready "open" tunnel to keep weight down. If you choose canister(s) it's super easy to close this area in if you choose. The canopy is light weight and one piece because it's a little small to have the removable canopy shell. |
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I spent quite a bit of time on the covering since there is a lot of covering over top of covering I used a fresh xacto knife to pop the little bubbles and smooth them out. Came out great!
**TIP! - here is one not many people know about.... Ever have your plane out in the sun and your ailerons are all puffed up, then take it home and the covering is all wrinkled? Or you have one spot that is wrinkled and as soon as you heat it the aileron puffs up and the whole thing gets wrinkled?? Here is what you do - Take a 1/16" drill bit and drill a single hole in the bottom of the rudder, root side of the ailerons and elevators. No more pressurized surfaces!! I hinged with 30 minute epoxy, to lube the hinges I like to melt some petroleum jelly and dip the hing point into it from both sides, place on towel so it does not run on the part that gets glue. Time to mount the engine! If you are putting a DA70 in this plane you will need 1 1/8" engine standoffs. Little measuring and marking, drilling and I installed with 6mm bolts, SWB standoffs, fender washers (don't use standard size washers behind the firewall!!!) and nylock nuts. **TIP-2 - For ANY ARF assembly, make sure to chase ALL blind nuts with a tap before installing a bolt!!! China blind nuts are stamped so sometimes they need a little chaser to clean them up. Also sometimes glue can get in there during assembly at the factory. Next I pinned the firewall by drilling small holes, harden with CA and install servo screws. I decided to use the stock tail wheel, it is a perfect size for this plane, no problems rubbing the rudder when harriering on the deck. The little screws for assembling the tiller arm to the rudder are fine, but a little small so I like to use 7/16" servo screws. For springs I buy them from McMaster Carr and install them with some fishing line swivels, either #2 or #3 in size. Quick, easy and nice if you need to service them. Gear is installed. Stock wheels are just fine, but I fly on a LOT of different fields so I prefer a 4" wheel on this size plane. I will put the gear cuffs on later, I just bolted the wheels on in case I need to get the plane off the stand for any reason. I'll install the cuffs and pants towards the end. NOTE: I am getting asked this a few times, and YES I can confirm that the DA70 fits in this cowl with a solid 1/4" of space from the plug cap to the inside of the cowl ImagesView all Images in thread |
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Engine compartment and cowl complete, all buttoned up!
- I made a new arm to solve the issue of the carb arm pointed towards the firewall and interference with the muffler. - Next up was cowl installation and cutting. I determined if I take 1/2" off the mufflers and angle the stacks at 14 degrees I can get the cowl on without cutting a huge slot in the bottom. (y) - Next was throttle servo, I used an MKS 1250 with a .75" arm. I determined where I wanted it for good linkage geometry and cut the hole, installed some blocks on the inside for screws and support. Pushrod made from stainless 4-40 all thread, sleeved with carbon. - Next is baffling. I get asked quite a bit and see it asked online quite a bit...."do I need to baffle". Short answer, YES!!! You'll be rewarded with a cooler running engine, more power and a longer life out of your engine. I did this one with creative foam (or the similar material I got from Amazon). Install with medium CA and I hit the corners inside with "goop". |
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On the home stretch, we'll have this little guy ready to fly tomorrow.
I use a soldering iron with an xacto blade to cut out the openings through the covering. TIP - On the holes for the threaded control rods if you cut out one side, then soak the inside with thin CA to harden the blocks it works amazing. Let that cure without accelerator and then cut out the opposite side. Drill those out with a 1/8" drill bit and then install the hardware. NO crush just in case they happen to have used soft wood. Make sure to Lock-tite the little horn as you tighten it up. On the gold hardware make sure to check that the little insert is fully seated that holds the little nylon washer. Also remove the screw and re-install it with lock-tite. I set up my pull-pull wires, they need to be crossed. I also set up the elevators and set up my "IMAC" throws wink emoticon Make sure to ALWAYS set up your surfaces to where you want them for 3D or High rates and then tone them down in your transmitter for low rates (even if you don't fly high rates much) because you never know when someone else may fly it or you may eventually want higher rates. That way your surfaces are balanced for both high and low. |
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So I got the 70cc Extra wrapped up today and am astonished at the weight!!! 17lb 1oz without batteries!!!! Absolutely crazy stupid fun this will be with a DA70 up front!!!!
Electronics were installed and organized, I opened up a slot on the bottom and installed a low pressure lip to suck air out of the fuse for added cooling. Gear cuffs and wheel pants were installed. Prop drilled and spinner installed. I may paint the spinner at some time but it looks good for now and I had it on hand. It is a 4" ultimate No-Limitz spinner from www.flypau.com |
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Thanks for the great pics! Helps me a lot...building one now with a DA-70. I have what may be a dumb question, but truly don't know. I wanted to ask how far tailpipes should extend beyond the bottom of the cowling? If I keep them short....say 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the cowling, I don't have to elongate the holes to fit the cowling to the plane. Any help would be appreciated!
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