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Old 03-19-2018, 02:12 PM
CHAD VEICH is offline
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Removing the old hinge points is easy with a piece of sharpened brass tube chucked up in a drill. Find a tube that just fits over the hinge and sharpen it on the inside. I also like to use the dremel to cut a few teeth into the tube. To plug the resulting holes left after the hinge is removed use the next size up brass tube to cut some balsa dowels that will be a perfect fit. Done it many times and it almost takes longer to explain it than to do it.
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuStOnE View Post
That's the first P-51 I've ever seen with split flaps!
I know!! cool right!
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by planebender View Post
I’ve removed a million pin style hinges and reinstalled new ones due to the same issue your faced with. For a easy method simply use a 3” long piece of brass tube approximately 3/8” diameter and sharpen it with your belt sander. Install the non sharp end in your hand drill and simply drill out the hinge , glue and all. Then using the same brass tube in your drill press I make new plugs with a 1” block of balsa drilled into the end grain and thin CA them in leaving about a 1/16” to sand. Then just redrill new holes using a Robart hinge drill guide.
This works great every time.

Dave

thank you so much Dave, I will definitely try this out. Sounds easy enough to do.. Turn the brass tube into a trephine.

I appreciate you


Cam
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:43 PM
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I hammer at 1500 feet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAD VEICH View Post
Removing the old hinge points is easy with a piece of sharpened brass tube chucked up in a drill. Find a tube that just fits over the hinge and sharpen it on the inside. I also like to use the dremel to cut a few teeth into the tube. To plug the resulting holes left after the hinge is removed use the next size up brass tube to cut some balsa dowels that will be a perfect fit. Done it many times and it almost takes longer to explain it than to do it.
will do. thank you. Sounds like great advice.
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Old 09-15-2019, 10:50 PM
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can you believe, I still have not finished this airplane. Plan to do it this winter. I am still upset that the surfaces were all hinged so crappy! I wish he would have let me do that. What a mess. Oh well. I need to get this done. I need some encouragement!
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Old 12-11-2019, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asjen View Post
that is not scale the elevator shoult be tight to the stab with no gap at all
and all so the aileron
this coult cose serious flutter i think

I'm way late to the party but +1000 that is not scale at all.

True scale hinging is hard to do with hinge points. The real thing had hinges recessed intoLE of the aileron, I'm fairly sure (but dont quote me) it was a type of frise aileron. Elevators would be similar but the hinges centered vertically and the elevator LE rounded (so it doesnt protrude up or down). Flaps where hinged similarly.



You can approximate this with hinge points but it requires a lot of work shaping - the hinge point install pamphlet Robart mails out has a diagram (attached).


Quote:
Originally Posted by JuStOnE View Post
That's the first P-51 I've ever seen with split flaps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by orthobird View Post
I know!! cool right!
If you are actually trying to build scale, its not cool. What it really is , is more evidence your builder friend doesn't know what a real P-51 looks like. No Mustangs ever left the factory with split flaps, and while its possible I guess, I highly doubt any Reno team ever modified one for them....
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Last edited by jharkin; 12-11-2019 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 12-11-2019, 09:49 PM
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this airplane is not meant to be scale. Purely for fun and for speed. It will never be flown at a war bird fly in or at the SCALE NATS.
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asjen View Post
to bad he glued the hinges already in
i also like to gleu the hinges in by my self
for a tight clean hinge line
there is a lot of info out there how to redo the hinges
i am sure you will find the right way
keep us posted about it
I did it. I was able to cut the hinge with a dremel CF wheel.

then, I used a dremel spiral cutting bit with a ROBART hinge point guide.

I then was able to use the Robart hinge guide and use the 3/16 drill bit for the new hinge points.
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:35 PM
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looking for the throws?
anyone know how much in degrees?
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:36 PM
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manual states:

3/8" up and down on elevator

rudder 1" each way

aileron

1/2" up and 3/8" down
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:53 AM
scale only 4 me is offline
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At this point in your model career can't you tell just by looking?

I'll check where mine are at Monday for you if you really need numbers
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me View Post
At this point in your model career can't you tell just by looking?

I'll check where mine are at Monday for you if you really need numbers
i prefer degrees, but that is just me, I want to be as precise as possible. a real pet peeve of mine is seeing people fly these warbirds and they have a huge amount of throws on their elevators and rudder. These airplanes do not need all that. I also want to set up the linkage such that, with a precision rate, what ever that degree of movement should be, I want the servo arm to be programed to travel 100% of the rate. That means that the ball link on the servo arm will be like 0.5" away from the center of the output shaft. Well depends, I need to do this once I figure out the degrees of deflection. If you have ever tried to set this up on an airplane, this dramatically decreases risk for flutter and it also significantly improves the servo resolution. it is the complete polar opposite of pilots who fly 3D.

I also discovered that the person who put the airplane together, he installed the servos with the servo output shaft away from the hinge line. Meaning, it would need to use longer push rods.

And, i just finished re-hinging the rudder and the elevators, so now, it is perfect, plus I added 2 more hinges per surface. He had done the hinging with 4 hinge points and he left a gap between the LE and TE of a distance between 1/4" and 3/8".
But now that gap is less than 1 mm.

Lots of work that man is making me do. And i have discovered some more issues. I will post this later.

SO if you could tell me how many degrees you need to get the airplane to fly precision, I would greatly appreciate that.

Now, you can understand the method to my madness!



thank you so much.
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Old 07-04-2020, 10:22 AM
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Some other issues:

the choke lever was places exactly behind where the spinner would be. So that will not work.

More work for me.


he installed one of these Durbo Fuel Fillers, which are notorious for leaking over time, especially if you tee it between the fuel line going from the tank to the carb nipple. SO this will all have to be re done and I will install a Fuel Dot with a fuel line that goes directly into the fuel tank.

He also made the airplane with a front and rear mount, that has no wood filler between the wing saddle and the mount. Another problem.


I feel i need to fill this with wood.

And, he also did the same with the wing itself. there is air between the plywood and where the wing would contact the saddle mount area. the screw head would have not much support between it and the fuselage mount. seems to me like, over time, this could fail.??


So many problems!

good thing is, I would not fly this til all of this is repaired.
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:16 PM
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Does anyone know how many amps the ROBART electric gear assembly draws?
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Old 07-05-2020, 05:17 PM
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got the retracts going now.

Getting closer and closer.

It will be interesting to get that DA 100 Inline installed.


Robart Electric Retracts in TOP FLITE P51 Non Scale Racer (1 min 12 sec)
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