Originally Posted by bbagle1

I have read that this plane is inherently nose heavy, is there any way i could get it to balance with a 14 ounce motor on the front running a full tuned pipe? Heavier servos, batt, etc. Any help would be great.

Hey bbagle1, I put a reply to your question in the other post also, but here's my answer again in case ya missed it

I think you would have a really hard time balancing it without having to add a bunch of weight. For comparison, my Webra .32 weighs 8.81oz, and I also have a mousse can muffler and header, and my outlaw still came out slightly nose heavy to the point where I had to add a little weight in the tail. I use JR ST-125MG servos which are metal gear servos (not the lightest servo out there).

Originally Posted by Larry Lewis

Should be this weekend CSpaced. We spent most of last nights build session shooting pictures, and discussing options. Although I've alwasy used several of my own techniques or modifications in building, and hardware set ups for the Outlaws, Ive chosen to go "right out of the box" with this one. Example, Ive always used the home made backplate for the motor, as designed by Jerry L Smith. For the first time, I'll be using a nylon motor mount (as supplied) for this one. I'll say this. It was a HECK of a lot faster!
Buddy,,,We're gonna run'm through the wringer!!!!!!!!!!
Nobody ever accused me a treating an Outlaw gentle! LOL

Dude that sounds awesome, I'd love to drag my outlaw out there to see you guys fly them for the first time

Mr Vess! - thanks for all the pics and comparisons. I really like the idea of solid tips, for the very reason you mentioned. I will definately go that way if I build another (or have to repair the one I have lol).

Pic 5 shows a comparison of the wing tip and, in general, the shape looks correct. But the ARF actually has some improvement here. The original had "flat plate tips" that could get broken and made perfect shrinking of the covering tough. The solid ARF tips help with both of these issues.[/quote]


Man,,,,,you just gotta LOVE those PINK wing tips!

Originally Posted by CSpaced

Dude that sounds awesome, I'd love to drag my outlaw out there to see you guys fly them for the first time

You're welcome to come to RDRC and join us this or any weekend!

Originally Posted by Larry Lewis

Pic 5 shows a comparison of the wing tip and, in general, the shape looks correct. But the ARF actually has some improvement here. The original had "flat plate tips" that could get broken and made perfect shrinking of the covering tough. The solid ARF tips help with both of these issues

Man,,,,,you just gotta LOVE those PINK wing tips!

Yeah, they're nice, huh? I should probably recover my ARF to have that scheme!

It's alright Robert I think the pink wingtips give it character. Larry is just jealous he didn't do them first.

paul swany has webra .32's in stock here in the states. just a bit of FYI :O)

http://www.swanyshouse.com/engines/engines.aspx

Paul is currently out of stock but has a shipment coming in but several including myself are on the list already so if you want one they are 109 plus about 14 shipping I think.
I cant wait
Wes

I guess the operative words from Swift Electronics are "in stock". So some who don't want to wait may wish to go that route in the near term.

I think Webra just cornered a whole new market for their .32/.36's!

Originally Posted by bbagle1

I have read that this plane is inherently nose heavy, is there any way i could get it to balance with a 14 ounce motor on the front running a full tuned pipe? Heavier servos, batt, etc. Any help would be great.

bbagle1,

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Your post slipped by me.

The real fun with an Outlaw comes from the unreal "high speed" antics you can perform with it. It's able to do this because of a combination of light-weight, big control surfaces, and thus great control power. As you add larger engines and heavier exhausts, you increase the wing loading and move the CG forward in the interest of adding more power. Then, the forward CG must be offset by adding more weight in the rear of the aircraft which makes the plane heavier still. It's a viscious circle that only takes away from the performance in the long run.

And, by nature, a swept delta wing can tend to be nose heavy anyway since the aerodynamic center is inherently aft while the heavy systems like the engine and fuel are positioned forward.

So my personal recommendation to you and others considering using larger motors and pipes would be to stick with the .25-.36 engines and mousse can muffler, keep all you radio gear towards the rear of the radio compartment, and think light. I guarantee that you will have plenty of speed and will be amazed by the wild things the Outlaw can do!

Ok Future Outlaw flyers! Robert and I have goofed off long enough! He and I hit the build table again last night, and I'm happy to say I have one complete RTF OUTLAWwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!! The build went fast, and trouble free. So lets get on with the building

The night started out for Robert with a little prep work. As with any ARF, you'll want to do a little ironing, and make sure all the covering is tight, and ironed down well to all the wood surfaces.
In pic #1, Robert has the heat gun fired up, and taking out any wrinkles that might be present. Actually, there were none, but he has this,,,,well,,,,system of doing things! He spends the first two nights of ANY build ironing! I think it's some kind of domestic fetish, but we wont go there!!!!

Pic #2, he's do'n some purty work with the iron. It's a shame his wife doesnt know his talents with ironing!
Pic #3 Get tired of all the ink smear you wind up after the "Big Iron Down" ? You need to try this stuff! It's sold at most grocery stores under the name of "Goof Off" This stuff is GREAT, and it doesnt harm the finish on plastic coverings. Nor does it harn paint. I use this stuff to clean everything on my models! Works great to remove exaust residue from mufflers, tape glue, etc. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area.

Pic #4 Robert is applying the decals to his "Blue Angels" schemed Outlaw. Seeing that Roberts Dad is a retired Marine, he chose to build this in his father honor. Great guy. His Dad,,,not Robert! I mean,,,Yeah,Robert is a great guy to, but,,,Oh Never Mind! Talk about complete! Extreme Flight even includes the transfer tape to apply the vinyl decals. Robert used the wet transfer method using "Windex" and a squeegee. Maybe Robert will jump in here and describe that in details

Originally Posted by Larry Lewis

Ok Future Outlaw flyers! Robert and I have goofed off long enough! He and I hit the build table again last night, and I'm happy to say I have one complete RTF OUTLAWwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!! The build went fast, and trouble free. So lets get on with the building

Sweet! Going to fly it today?

Ok,,,enought of that ironing stuff! Lets Build!

I started the night by building the supplied fuel tank. Unlike the older Outlaws, the latest version uses a 6 oz. tank, vs, the 4oz. Jerry Smith made this modification to his scratch built models some time back. After moving the root ribs outward, it allowed more room inside for a larger tank, and more importantly, more room for radio components. Lets see,,,,,,, Bigger tank, More Time For Fun! Be sure and keep the exterior metal tubing as short as you can. This will help prevent kinking of the fuel tubing later, when you install the motor and mount. Be sure to install the throttle push rod tube before installing your tank!

Pic #1 Tank ready to install And Pic #2 Tank in it's place. Nice Fit! One more note. I use a piece af servo tape ( double sided stick) on the bottom of the tank. This prevents the tank from sliding back, but allows me to remove it should I ever need to. (note the throttle push rod tube location)