Just tried to start my new DLE 35RA. It will pop but will not start. It's getting fuel and just to be on the safe side I put fuel in the carb with a tube. Still nothing but a pop when I choke it and It try's to start but just runs for a second. Plug cap is all the way on and both needles Are at 1 1/4 open. I opened the needles to 2 turns and put a new plug in after it wouldn't start. Any ideas?

Hand propping or using a starter?

I've seen quite a few DLE 30's that refuse to hand prop until after the first run of the day. Or hand prop at all. That MAY indicate a poor reed to reed block seal = trouble drawing fuel at start.

To prime a new or dry engine, one method I learned here is to unscrew the pump side of the carb (the side with one large Philip's screw) slightly and apply pressure to the vent line until you see seepage of fuel out from under the plate. This will force fuel into the carb metering and pump side. Then tighten the screw back up and flip no choke.

Is the ignition battery in a good state and fully charged?

Can you indeed see fuel being drawn up to the carb through the fuel line as you flip/start?

Is there good clearance (at least 1/2 inch) from your clunk to the back wall of your tank?

Is your clunk line free? (no bends or kinks)

the 30s and 35s that I have tinkered with have no problem on their initial hand starts, but the needles to have to be set properly. I think 2 turns out is too much, and I don't think 1.25 are the defaults, and the needles should be at their defaults. make sure that the choke is open, and you may need to flip it through a few times, and make sure that the throttle is not fully closed and that the plug is tight.

good luck...

My 35 gave me fits trying to hand start it when new. First 1/2 gallon or so I dont care who you were if you didnt use the starter you werent flyin. Ran fine ..set needles for nice top rpm, idle and transition but shut her down and try to hand flip it...forget it. Do the reed valve..no change. Anyway eventualy it came around. Ive had a 20, 30, 35, DL50, 55 and a 111 so not unfamiliar with DLE and gas engines in general as thats all Ive flown since around the early 90s and this 35 was the toughest DLE to hand start Ive ever had.

Some new DLE & other engines do not have a lot of suction to pull the fuel in good. As the ring seats in & the internal parts break in & have less drag, starting should get better. A small shot of fuel in the carb sometimes helps. Capt,n

Originally Posted by FoamieAirfarce

Hand propping or using a starter?

I've seen quite a few DLE 30's that refuse to hand prop until after the first run of the day. Or hand prop at all. That MAY indicate a poor reed to reed block seal = trouble drawing fuel at start.

To prime a new or dry engine, one method I learned here is to unscrew the pump side of the carb (the side with one large Philip's screw) slightly and apply pressure to the vent line until you see seepage of fuel out from under the plate. This will force fuel into the carb metering and pump side. Then tighten the screw back up and flip no choke.

Is the ignition battery in a good state and fully charged?

Can you indeed see fuel being drawn up to the carb through the fuel line as you flip/start?

Is there good clearance (at least 1/2 inch) from your clunk to the back wall of your tank?

Is your clunk line free? (no bends or kinks)

+1

Try a few drops of oil in the cylinder, 10 or 12. Helps the rings seal, once you get a little time, then it will start fine. I got this tip from the local lawn and garden repair shop. The engine was a 30 cc in monster truck with pull start, dam near wore my shoulder out. Put oil in the plug hole and it started on the second pull.

Thanks for all the onfo guys. Yes, I am hand flipping the engine to start it. I have been flying since the early 80's and I've had a gasser or two in my time. The latest being 3 DLE 30, Two DLE 55, one SYSSA 30cc, and now one DLE 35. I've had issues with engines before but never had an issue with firing one up for the first time. When I get home from work today I'm going to check the spark on the plug. I've already ruled out the fuel system. I'm thinking maybe the E.I. may be the issue but you never know.

My 30 took quite a bit of throttle opening the first time I started it. After that it does well just a click or two above idle.

Funny, I wanted to say check the ignition as we had a 111 do the exact same thing on Friday. I took all my bits for engine setup to the friends house and eventually stuck a new EI in and it started. Before, it just barked once every flip.
Good luck!

Originally Posted by grassie

Funny, I wanted to say check the ignition as we had a 111 do the exact same thing on Friday. I took all my bits for engine setup to the friends house and eventually stuck a new EI in and it started. Before, it just barked once every flip.
Good luck!

Yeap, pretty much that's all I get is a "bark" every flip.

i would definatly try leaning out the low end a bit. i had that problem with my 111 and i found i was too rich to start. also make sure you are giving it a good solid flip. even now that i have it running good if i adjust the needles too far it is a bear to start

Originally Posted by zippi

Yeap, pretty much that's all I get is a "bark" every flip.

Sounds like a dud ignition battery. I had this on an old ni-cad pack that gave up the ghost one day...and have seen it on several other engines as well...Test the capacity of the ignition pack...Mine read 5V after charging, but would only deliver 200ma and die...

Originally Posted by Rossheald

Sounds like a dud ignition battery. I had this on an old ni-cad pack that gave up the ghost one day...and have seen it on several other engines as well...Test the capacity of the ignition pack...Mine read 5V after charging, but would only deliver 200ma and die...

Been there and done that. I even replaced the battery.

Well, tried a fiends electronic ignition today and its no different than mine. I notice a lot of air in the fuel line. Fuel pump seems fine as I can rock the prop and get it to draw fuel from my can on the ground. Now it's beginning to seem like the reeds may be sucking air. It's under warranty so it's going to get sent in to be checked out.