So I pulled the pipe from the frame. I can not hear or feel anything clanging in there. I can not see anything amiss.

When I blow into the stinger side, the air seems to flow quite easily. When I blow through the header side, the air does not seem to flow so easily. I mean, it flows fine, but I feel back pressure. Is this normal?

Tell me about it,I got two months worth of flying out of my ES pipe on a MVVS58. I quit using pipes not long after that. Went to a KS 1060 for a while,it responded better than the ES,but still wasn't what I was looking for.I'm a factory side dump guy now and always will be.

Originally Posted by closetguy

Tell me about it,I got two months worth of flying out of my ES pipe on a MVVS58. I quit using pipes not long after that. Went to a KS 1060 for a while,it responded better than the ES,but still wasn't what I was looking for.I'm a factory side dump guy now and always will be.

you have been using too small pipe, it shoud be for 80... (1080) because it is a long stroke, see recomandation on their page. I have one yeaars ago with original pipe, pulling out 9.2 hp...

My Saga Continues:

First, Thank You to all who have been helping me so far !!!!

Now, I have the pipe out. There is nothing banging around in there. It SEEMS rock solid. If I blow into the stinger it feels like I am blowing through a large straw (no resistance at all. But if I blow through the front end, it feels like there is some resistance. I can not get my head around that. Is this normal?

Is it possible that the glue got hot, and allowed the cone inside to slip aft? I can't imagine that it is clogged with oil after 8 flights???

I have tried to call Ed with no joy. Someone said he was active in the Jeti thread? Can you point me to him? What is his avatar name?

Something let go inside,you really shouldn't feel any resistance from just blowing air into the entrance of pipe.When you think of how much air is going into it from the exhaust.If it is brand new it certainly shouldn't be plugged up inside.Even if it was I don't know what you could clean it with, without harming the carbon fiber.

ES Pipe conversation moved if your interested in the continuation....

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...09#post2879721

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Can someone tell me if the metering level gauge for a DA50 will work for a DA60?

If not, can you point me to the proper gauge for a DA60?

Originally Posted by deadrobmusic

Can someone tell me if the metering level gauge for a DA50 will work for a DA60?

If not, can you point me to the proper gauge for a DA60?

Yes, the Walbro gauge is pretty much universal with settings / markings for most of the common Walbro carbs. Most of our carbs these days are the WT, WB, WJ, HDA, SDC series and a few other not so common ones. All of these are included on the one standard gauge and Walbro P/N is 500-13-1.

The gauge also works on the various clone carbs out there.

Originally Posted by Truckracer

Yes, the Walbro gauge is pretty much universal with settings / markings for most of the common Walbro carbs. Most of our carbs these days are the WT, WB, WJ, HDA, SDC series and a few other not so common ones. All of these are included on the one standard gauge and Walbro P/N is 500-13-1.

The gauge also works on the various clone carbs out there.

So, with my DA35, I used the gauge so that the center piece or the "M", the lowest part in the middle, pushes down on the tab that depresses the spring.

But with my DA50, using it that way means the center tab will need to be pushed way down close to bottoming out. Does that make sense? Is that correct?

Right now, if I simply lay straight edge across the top and rest it on the two sides, the straight edge just barely misses the tab.

Can you help?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by deadrobmusic

So, with my DA35, I used the gauge so that the center piece or the "M", the lowest part in the middle, pushes down on the tab that depresses the spring.

But with my DA50, using it that way means the center tab will need to be pushed way down close to bottoming out. Does that make sense? Is that correct?

Right now, if I simply lay straight edge across the top and rest it on the two sides, the straight edge just barely misses the tab.

Can you help?

Thanks!

Something doesn't sound right here. Both the DA 35 and 50 use the Walbro WT series carb and they should both adjust the same! I have a WT-201 here from the 50 but I don't have a 35 carb and don't know its model number. When using the gauge, the center of the gauge "W" for Walbro (its not an M) should just touch (not depress) the metering lever when the tool is bridged across the carb body. You can visually confirm this as the metering lever should be level with a small ridge of metal that surrounds the lever. On WT series carbs I rarely use the tool as its so easy to confirm the lever is level with the housing just by looking at it. I have attached a couple of photos to show this. If you're seeing otherwise, the carb lever may not be assembled correctly.

Oh SNAP!

I am SO sorry. and feeling SO stupid. I said DA50, but I shoaled have said DA60

Yes, the 35 and 50 have the same carb. This da60 is different.

If I use the W in the fashion you show (Which is exactly how I have used it on my 35 and my 50) it SEEMS that I need to bend the metering level down A LOT to keep it in lime with the measuring gauge. If I lay a straight edge across, it lines up perfectly.

SO the question is, does this same gauge I use with the 35 and the 50 work with the 60. And if so, do I use it in the same way that you have pictured it?

Originally Posted by deadrobmusic

Oh SNAP!

I am SO sorry. and feeling SO stupid. I said DA50, but I shoaled have said DA60

Yes, the 35 and 50 have the same carb. This da60 is different.

If I use the W in the fashion you show (Which is exactly how I have used it on my 35 and my 50) it SEEMS that I need to bend the metering level down A LOT to keep it in lime with the measuring gauge. If I lay a straight edge across, it lines up perfectly.

SO the question is, does this same gauge I use with the 35 and the 50 work with the 60. And if so, do I use it in the same way that you have pictured it?

No problem! Yes the same tool works, you just use a different part of it which is straight for the HDA carb. You'll see HDA stamped along one side of the "W". The metering lever is at the same level as the housing so on this carb, you could just use any straight edge if you wanted to. The way you described it, no adjustment is needed.

Originally Posted by Truckracer

No problem! Yes the same tool works, you just use a different part of it which is straight for the HDA carb. You'll see HDA stamped along one side of the "W". The metering lever is at the same level as the housing so on this carb, you could just use any straight edge if you wanted to. The way you described it, no adjustment is needed.

Awesome. Thanks! I also learned something about the metering gauge, as in the stamps show which parts of the gauge you use. THANKS!!!!

On the Walbro carb mine is the Wb 27. The throttle butterfly one way closed it fits snug against the throttle body and the other way there is gaps. Which is the correct way for it to close?
Thanks