Hello. im new to gassers and this is the first engine ive had to tune. The engine is a 3W-24 and ive been using the guide "gas engine tuning for newbies" from this site and i have the engine running smoothly. no "four stroking" is present. the only problem i am having is that when i go to give it throttle quickly the engine dies. anyone know what causes this? thanks for the help.

Rich

anyone?

lean

Lean on the low end. I couldn't get my ZDZ right using that procedure. It was great on the ground, but once in the air it was rich on top and lean at the bottom.

thanks for the help guys. il give it a try tomorrow

Rich

This is how I tune my engines:
Turn the high end needle so far out that it runs really fat. (You can hear it when the RPM goes back down.)
Than slowly turn the high end needle in just until you reach your max RPM (use something to measure it). When you are turning the needle to much in your RPM will start to decrease. Once you have found you max RPM than turn it so much out until you RPM decreases about 100/200 RPM. Your high end needle is just fine now.
Do the same thing with you low end needle. Begin with setting it on the fat side (you will here a brubble when you move your stick up) Turn it very slowly in (about 1/16 turn each time) until the engine takes on really nice. Then turn it a very very little fat. That's all.

If your engine is new you will have to turn the low end needle a little in once a while. When your engine starts to brubble when you pick up its running a bit fat.
One thing you don't forget. When tuning the low end needle and it's on the fat side you will have to burn the to much of gasoline by moving your stick to the higher RPM's before you can get a nice transition.

Hope this helps you.

Originally Posted by Corsair01

This is how I tune my engines:
Turn the high end needle so far out that it runs really fat. (You can hear it when the RPM goes back down.)
Than slowly turn the high end needle in just until you reach your max RPM (use something to measure it). When you are turning the needle to much in your RPM will start to decrease. Once you have found you max RPM than turn it so much out until you RPM decreases about 100/200 RPM. Your high end needle is just fine now.
Do the same thing with you low end needle. Begin with setting it on the fat side (you will here a brubble when you move your stick up) Turn it very slowly in (about 1/16 turn each time) until the engine takes on really nice. Then turn it a very very little fat. That's all.

If your engine is new you will have to turn the low end needle a little in once a while. When your engine starts to brubble when you pick up its running a bit fat.
One thing you don't forget. When tuning the low end needle and it's on the fat side you will have to burn the to much of gasoline by moving your stick to the higher RPM's before you can get a nice transition.

Hope this helps you.

I GOT MY FIRST GAS ENGINE IN 1946...MANUAL SPARK ADVANCE AND ALL THAT FUN STUFF. THE THING IS THIS: 99% OF THE GAS FLYERS OUT THERE ARE NOT ADJUSTING THE WALBRO CARB THE WAY IT WAS DESIGNED TO FUNCTION.
FIRST OF ALL, IT IS EXACTLY OPPOSITE OF A NITRO. SURPRISE!!!
SECOND: YOU CAN NOT SET THE HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES THE SAME NUMBER OF TURNS FOR ALL ENGINES. THE SO CALLED "FACTORY SETTINGS" WILL DIFFER BY AS MUCH AS 1 1/2 TURNS. THIS DEPENDS ON THE CARB MODEL AND NUMBER...BUT MOST OF ALL ON THE SIZE ENGINE YOU ARE TRYING TO TUNE.
THIRD: IF YOU ADJUST THE CARB PROPERLY YOU NEVER LEAN THE HIGH SPEED AND THEN BACK IT OFF LIKE A NITRO.
FORTH: THE REASON MOST PEOPLE'S ENGINES QUIT IN THE AIR AT FULL POWER IS BECAUSE THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE IS TOO LEAN.

THINK ABOUT THIS AND I PROMISE I WILL POST THE METHOD THAT WILL GET YOU AN EXTRA 1000 RPM AND YOU WILL NEVER RUN LEAN NOR HAVE ANY HESITATION GOING FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE.

IT'S NOT MAGIC, YOU JUST HAVE TO REALLY KNOW HOW A WALBRO CARB REALLY WORKS...BY THE WAY, WALBRO WILL NOT TELL YOU HOW TO DO THIS...THEY DON'T WANT THE LIABILITY. THATS WHY EACH ENGINE BUILDER HAS THEIR OWN WAY.

THERE IS ONLY ONE "RIGHT WAY"

I AM IN A LOT OF PAIN RIGHT NOW AND NEED TO STOP.

I GAVE YOU ALL THE INFO YOU NEED. LET'S SEE WHO HAS AN OPEN MIND AND FIGURES IT OUT. EVERYTHING IS OPPOSITE..

YOU CAN TUNE ANY ENGINE IN LESS THAN TWO MINUTES
BUT I BEG YOU NOT TO TUNE WHILE RUNNING..
SHUT IT DOWN. TIME DOES NOT MATTER.

I've got an open mind and always willing to learn.

I'm looking forward to your next instalment of instructions.

Thanks for posting.

Originally Posted by REAL TOP GUN

I GOT MY FIRST GAS ENGINE IN 1946...MANUAL SPARK ADVANCE AND ALL THAT FUN STUFF. THE THING IS THIS: 99% OF THE GAS FLYERS OUT THERE ARE NOT ADJUSTING THE WALBRO CARB THE WAY IT WAS DESIGNED TO FUNCTION.
FIRST OF ALL, IT IS EXACTLY OPPOSITE OF A NITRO. SURPRISE!!!
SECOND: YOU CAN NOT SET THE HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES THE SAME NUMBER OF TURNS FOR ALL ENGINES. THE SO CALLED "FACTORY SETTINGS" WILL DIFFER BY AS MUCH AS 1 1/2 TURNS. THIS DEPENDS ON THE CARB MODEL AND NUMBER...BUT MOST OF ALL ON THE SIZE ENGINE YOU ARE TRYING TO TUNE.
THIRD: IF YOU ADJUST THE CARB PROPERLY YOU NEVER LEAN THE HIGH SPEED AND THEN BACK IT OFF LIKE A NITRO.
FORTH: THE REASON MOST PEOPLE'S ENGINES QUIT IN THE AIR AT FULL POWER IS BECAUSE THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE IS TOO LEAN.

THINK ABOUT THIS AND I PROMISE I WILL POST THE METHOD THAT WILL GET YOU AN EXTRA 1000 RPM AND YOU WILL NEVER RUN LEAN NOR HAVE ANY HESITATION GOING FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE.

IT'S NOT MAGIC, YOU JUST HAVE TO REALLY KNOW HOW A WALBRO CARB REALLY WORKS...BY THE WAY, WALBRO WILL NOT TELL YOU HOW TO DO THIS...THEY DON'T WANT THE LIABILITY. THATS WHY EACH ENGINE BUILDER HAS THEIR OWN WAY.

THERE IS ONLY ONE "RIGHT WAY"

I AM IN A LOT OF PAIN RIGHT NOW AND NEED TO STOP.

I GAVE YOU ALL THE INFO YOU NEED. LET'S SEE WHO HAS AN OPEN MIND AND FIGURES IT OUT. EVERYTHING IS OPPOSITE..

YOU CAN TUNE ANY ENGINE IN LESS THAN TWO MINUTES
BUT I BEG YOU NOT TO TUNE WHILE RUNNING..
SHUT IT DOWN. TIME DOES NOT MATTER.

My ears hurt, lots of yelling around here!

Open mind here too!! Looking forward to future posts.

Originally Posted by REAL TOP GUN

I GOT MY FIRST GAS ENGINE IN 1946...MANUAL SPARK ADVANCE AND ALL THAT FUN STUFF. THE THING IS THIS: 99% OF THE GAS FLYERS OUT THERE ARE NOT ADJUSTING THE WALBRO CARB THE WAY IT WAS DESIGNED TO FUNCTION.
FIRST OF ALL, IT IS EXACTLY OPPOSITE OF A NITRO. SURPRISE!!!
SECOND: YOU CAN NOT SET THE HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES THE SAME NUMBER OF TURNS FOR ALL ENGINES. THE SO CALLED "FACTORY SETTINGS" WILL DIFFER BY AS MUCH AS 1 1/2 TURNS. THIS DEPENDS ON THE CARB MODEL AND NUMBER...BUT MOST OF ALL ON THE SIZE ENGINE YOU ARE TRYING TO TUNE.
THIRD: IF YOU ADJUST THE CARB PROPERLY YOU NEVER LEAN THE HIGH SPEED AND THEN BACK IT OFF LIKE A NITRO.
FORTH: THE REASON MOST PEOPLE'S ENGINES QUIT IN THE AIR AT FULL POWER IS BECAUSE THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE IS TOO LEAN.

THINK ABOUT THIS AND I PROMISE I WILL POST THE METHOD THAT WILL GET YOU AN EXTRA 1000 RPM AND YOU WILL NEVER RUN LEAN NOR HAVE ANY HESITATION GOING FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE.

IT'S NOT MAGIC, YOU JUST HAVE TO REALLY KNOW HOW A WALBRO CARB REALLY WORKS...BY THE WAY, WALBRO WILL NOT TELL YOU HOW TO DO THIS...THEY DON'T WANT THE LIABILITY. THATS WHY EACH ENGINE BUILDER HAS THEIR OWN WAY.

THERE IS ONLY ONE "RIGHT WAY"

I AM IN A LOT OF PAIN RIGHT NOW AND NEED TO STOP.

I GAVE YOU ALL THE INFO YOU NEED. LET'S SEE WHO HAS AN OPEN MIND AND FIGURES IT OUT. EVERYTHING IS OPPOSITE..

YOU CAN TUNE ANY ENGINE IN LESS THAN TWO MINUTES
BUT I BEG YOU NOT TO TUNE WHILE RUNNING..
SHUT IT DOWN. TIME DOES NOT MATTER.

I guarantee you will NOT tune my G62 to get 1000 more rpm...It turns 9000 unloaded in the air with an open pipe exhause 3 inches long,,,ets hear the tuning method...
No tuned pipes allowed...

Agree Ralph... let's hear his method...!!

Originally Posted by Low_Cal

My ears hurt, lots of yelling around here!

WHEN YOU ARE 80 YEARS OLD YOU NEED TO YELL TO HEAR YOURSELF...

More cryptic engine guru's. Just what we need LOL! 1000 RPM is a bit of a stretch running big gas engines. I can see maybe 2 or 300.

Originally Posted by antique

I guarantee you will NOT tune my G62 to get 1000 more rpm...It turns 9000 unloaded in the air with an open pipe exhause 3 inches long,,,ets hear the tuning method...
No tuned pipes allowed...

YOU NEED SOME BACK PRESSURE ON YOUR EXHAUST...A 3" PIPE IS LIMITING YOUR POWER. ANY MUFFLER WILL HELP.

I HAVE SEVERAL G-62'S THEY ARE THE ONLY APPROVED ENGINE FOR SCALE RACING IN THE T-6 TEXAN CLASS (AMA)

IF YOU RUN UNLIMITED MODIFIED YOU CAN GRIND THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST PORTS FOR ADDITIONAL RPM OR ADDITIONAL POWER. THE METHODS ARE DIFFERENT AND EXPENSIVE IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING.

I DON'T HAVE A SECRETARY SO I ALWAYS TYPE IN UPPER CASE UNLESS I'M GETTING PAID.