|
|
United States, NC, Marion
Joined Aug 2009
8 Posts
|
Discussion
42% Ultimate WM Build
Starting a build with a friend of a 42% world models ultimate. Just got motor in today (DLE 170). We have some hitec servos that we could program or we could do it through a smart fly eq10 I have. Always open to suggestions on a power system as well as servo set up. World models suggests at least 2 servos on every single flight surface but we are wandering if we might get away with one per surface without warping due to higher torque of modern servos. Any advice or suggestions/build tips on putting together this kit will be much appreciated . Will be posting pics as we make progress. Thanks for everyone’s insight.
|
|
|
|
|
I've got a friend who's been flying one of those for years--was yellow like yours, then he recovered it a couple years back. He flies on Hitecs (either 5955 or 7955, can't remember), with one per surface, except two on rudder in push/pull. DA150 hauls it around nicely. Don't try hard 3D moves with it--any time he tries something like a pop-top, it'll pop the flying wires, so he does more low n slow 3D like harriers, rollers, and hovering.
|
|
|
|
I'm not sure on what breaks (not the wires, the attachments, I think), but it's demonstrative of some inherent flex, I believe. YMMV on how hard you fly lol
|
|
|
Canada, ON, Windsor
Joined Jan 2006
75 Posts
|
Hi, mine is a purple one. I used one Hitec 5955 servo for each aileron and elevator. And 2 Hitec 5955 for the rudder, a pull-pull setup. It's powered by DA150 with stock mufflers. Instead of those wires between the wings I used bolts and blind nuts to secure the wings, so no wires, much easier for assembling to me. She also has a wide CG range, mine is 2 inches behind the suggested point. It flew beautifully.
|
|
|
|
Flying Wires
I don’t have a WM Ultimate but an EMHW Ultimate 2.15 instead. My experience with the flying wires is based on that. The flying wires are a critical part of the structure. If they keep breaking it means that the wires could not handle the forces they were subjected to because they were not built right.
I checked the WM Ultimate manual. There are a few things I would definitely do differently. If the wire is connected directly to a metal plate as instructed in the manual (picture 1) they will not last very long. I tried this too (picture 2). After third lazy flight while the engine still being broken in two wires at the wings were cut. I ended up replacing all the wires. I used M3 servo pushrod links to connect the wires at most of the points. At the center cabane where two wires are connected, I used an eye screw (picture 3). Another thing which is very important is how you crimp the wires. I tried without the extra loop in the cable (picture 4). That did not last very long. With the loop (picture 5) there has been no problems so far. The only thing I don’t like in the loop is that it doesn’t look very clean. I am starting to build another EMHW Ultimate, still waiting for the kit to arrive. What I like to do before and during building is to test a lot of things. The wire I am currently working on has 7x7 strands with nylon covering. This is good for 130lbs which I think should be enough for my kind of flying. The diameter is 1.0mm which is about the maximum that you can get through the holes in the M3 size wire couplers. The sleeves I use are Mustad 2.0mm sleeves from a fishing shop (picture 6). This time I made two wires for testing. The first one had no loop and a single sleeve. The other had no loop and two sleeves in a row. What I did differently this time was to melt the nylon coating at the sleeves with a blowtorch. There was no way I could break these cables. I will do some further testing but I think I am going to give this method a try. Just my 02c. --kaboomski; |
|
|
|
Cables such as pull - pull and cabane strut cables if routed through a sharp hole will fray and eventually break. I have seen model manufactures simply
flatten threaded rod end and drill a hole through it then route the cable through it. WRONG - this the best way to cut the cable. I have seen it happen to a Chip Hyde TOC Ultimate. So many kit manufacturers get it completely wrong. I don't understand why it is OK to kink-bend around a sharp corner while it is under tension and vibration - why a great way to cut through a cable - it's fricken perfect way to ask for disaster. Kaboomski is correct - This the best to do a pull -pull or cabane strut cable is to route it through a polished 4-40 eyelet like in the last picture. I don't know why kit manufacturers screw this up. Ronster |
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |