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Old 08-28-2012, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japan3d View Post
I am this close ��to ordering the 120-150 size Pitts. I have everything needed, just want
to make it is built well enough to handle a DA 150 every weekend?
My testing has been with a 120cc.. Older versions were flown on 150's..

Ask canavan bob..


He had the older version with the weaker wire braced wings and a kroma 180

Thanks!
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:30 AM
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i had the same thing with the glassair i had. i just put an aluminum plate under the gear all the way across from the bend in the gear on one sidet o the other and ran the mounting bolts through the three pieces. you may have to put the plate on top though.

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Originally Posted by Full Spool View Post
Well lets see if this helps, I will report my findings once I get a few landings on her.

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Old 08-29-2012, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rick dazzler View Post
Engine looks way to far forward even for the design of the plane on the stock standoffs?? Just my thoughts
Stock stand offs, they actually come out to short on most planes. The yak, msxr, etc.


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Originally Posted by terryscustom View Post
Those look like DLE55 standoffs....I would get shorter standoffs and push the carb through the FW before moving the FW itself. Easier to cut a hole than it is to re-define your thrust angle and all that stuff.......BUT, how far does the hub stick out of the front of the cowl?? On most round cowl planes like Yak / Pitts / etc. you want at least an inch of prop clearance from the front of the cowl.
They are stock jc60 stand offs, I am aware of the clearance issues on round cowls however the problem is I would have to cut the width of the cylinder head out of the front of the cowl to get it to slide back.

I don't mind to slide it back however adjusting the carb would be a PITA with the needles in the firebox.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:58 AM
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You could use some brass tubes as guide to make adjusting the needles easier if the carb is in the motorbox.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:01 AM
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Well I got looking at it again and I think if I send the carb back 13/64" it will give me my 1" idea clearance and less hacking of the cowl. Just got to check it all over again before making any decisions, with this method I might still be able to reach the needles.

Will keep you guys updated, thanks for the response.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:50 AM
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Ahhhh, I see what you are doing....not mandatory, just a preference thing. On my old Peak Pitts it was too much to try to contain with a Jtec Pitts muffler, so I just cut the hole and let it breath.
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:29 AM
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If the fire wall moved back around 3/16" it would keep the cylinder head further away out from the cowl ring. I think I am going to run shorter stand offs, open the fire wall, and look for a wrap around muffler. I would hate to cut out half the side of the cowl, it's to pretty.
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:59 PM
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Installed the bowman ring, choke arm, and working on the throttle linkage.

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Old 09-03-2012, 06:13 PM
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:03 PM
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Well I got everything ready and did some shake down taxing in the yard to check engine transition, fasteners, etc and noticed the flying wires lost there tension. I started to adjust the tension and all 4 of them snap in half, luckily I had a crashed ultimate so I scrapped some parts off it for a quick fix.

Waiting on decent weather for the maiden.




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Old 09-08-2012, 05:36 PM
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Where did your CG come in???
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