Seen a few threads starting to build this plane, but none showning flying/finished

So I finished and certified and flown mine on the w/end, so a bit of a reverse build thread!

Heres whats in it

DolphinCo (Goldwing) MX2 88"
DLE-55 Engine
C60 Canister and Alum Header header (Joint Tig Welded in the right spot)
Hitec 7995TG Servos on Ailerons and Rudder (had some spare)
PowerHD DS120M on Elevators (*Update* both FAILED and been replaced with ScannerRC 16kg)
PowerHD DS090M on Throttle (*Update*Also FAILED and has been replaced with Hitec)
42% Products Opto-Kill Switch
42% Products LiPhos (Life type) 2600 Mah Battery
42% Heavy Duty Deans Switch into Deans->Twin Radio Lead adaptor (ie two leads into RX)
Sanyo Eneloop 2000mah 4.8v Pack for ignition
Stock Hardware as supplied in Kit, except replaced servo arms with alloy ones from Miracle and Seacraft.
Dry weight came in at just on 7.4kg

How does she fly? Bloody great very impressed and happy camper. Minimal mixing/inputs needed for knife edge, and floats in to land. Only got 4 flights in, but will get some this weekend.

Great power with the DLE-55 and Canister, nice and quiet. Couldnt give it too much just yet as motor brand new also. So need to get some more juice through it.

Next is photos of some of the setup/install. Will get some more of it all together.

Scott
DL Engines Australia

Engine & Canister Install.

DLE-55
C60 Canister, and adjustable header. Had to cut to length, and have slip fit joint welded (cost $10 to have welded by local alum fabricator)

Canister is secured towards the back with a K&S softmount from DA Aust. Bolted up into top of canister tunnel. Bolts come out jsut in front of wing tube. Will get some pics to add

Couple slices of high temp silicon used to insulate/damped where close to top and bottome of tunnel (where landing gear plate is, and top of tunnel) cut from flexi silicon baking tray bought from BigW. Handy stuff, used to make mounts for my 35% 260 canister install also.

Had to use shorter stand offs so the engine didnt stick out to far, these are 58mm, stock DL ones are 68mm

Enlarged hole in firewall to clear carby, choke linkage and fuel line.

Hooked up to Dubro 20oz Tank, Dubro Gas Stopper , PSP Billet Tank cap, nice size clunk supplied with kit so used that.

Stock tank seemed OK, but I prefer Dubro ones.

Manual choke setup - homemade plate out of some scrap aluminium 3mm flat. Sulivan carbon precision push rod, sleeve CA'd into plate, 2-56 ball link (with 4-40 rod size). Couple bends in the 4-40 wire (threaded end) and slide the push rod over the top of the wire. Simple, light and works a treat.

Scott
DL Engines AU

Hey Scott, what prop are you using??

I have the Dolphinco Extra 300 88" with a DL-50 and C60 canister with a custom made stainless header.. I was running a Vess 23A prop and it was ripping it like crazy.. and I was getting noise complaints... changed the prop to a Mejzlik 23x8 and it is so quiet now its not funny!!

Look forward to seeing some more photos!!

Radio Install.

Futaba 2.4 , all running direct from 8 Channel RX.

Power from 42% LiPhos battery, deans switch, then Deans to Radio plug adaptor

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dl...&productId=180

Have two power leads going into RX, one into battery port, and other into spare channel.

Single radio lead is only good for around 4amps before they start getting warm, so running two into RX double the current capacity to the RX without worring about powerboards etc in a 50cc airframe.

Scott
DL Engines AU

Hi Scott, what size and voltage batteries on your Rx? OK, can see it now.

Originally Posted by timbo0279

Hey Scott, what prop are you using??

I have the Dolphinco Extra 300 88" with a DL-50 and C60 canister with a custom made stainless header.. I was running a Vess 23A prop and it was ripping it like crazy.. and I was getting noise complaints... changed the prop to a Mejzlik 23x8 and it is so quiet now its not funny!!

Look forward to seeing some more photos!!

Hey

Just running TZB 22/8 at the moment for run in. Not the hardest reving/highest performance props out there, but good alrounder and quiet compared to most other wood.

Going to go JXF 23/8 Laminated once I get some more fuel through...and I have the props back in stock

Engine fit inside cowl, all except top of plug, and centre fins on top of cylinder. But I cut out hole in front to get air direct to fins. Havent put any baffling in ...yet... will see how it goes, but was close to 35 degrees when I was flying on Sunday, and no signs of getting hot. Big hole for canister, and wide outlet along back of cowl already in place seems to do well in giving enough air out.

See pics

Scott
DL Engines AU

Originally Posted by Gil

Hi Scott, what size and voltage batteries on your Rx? OK, can see it now.

6.6V LiPhos (A123 type) from 42%, so no regulator needed and fast fast charge rate.

Going to install a NanoCube amp counter when they arrive, so I can keep an eye on how much Im using, As cant really load test these type of batteries.

Scott
DL Engines AU

Throttle servo mounting inside engine box.

Used mount supplied with kit, and screwed into place, so easy to get throttle servo out if needed. Can get it out with some fine finger fiddling without taking it out. But tedious if not removeable.

Direct behind carby so nice direct link, using 2-56 balllings & 4-40 rod.

Will also see velocity stack hidden in there. Put one in as carby sticking into engine box, and seem to help stop fuel spit into all the goodies from the carby.

Scott
DL Engines AU

Do you sell the velocity stacks Scott?? I have had the very same problem of fuel spit with my engine.. and I have a feeling it may have even caused the throttle servo to fail (mounted in almost the exactly same spot...).. would be a good idea to get one on there if I can.. and it minimises the fuel coating the internals...

Servos & Linkages.

All the hinging was done by the factory with robart style hinges, except for the rudder. I hate doing hinges, so this was a high point for me

Even rudder cables are in place, you just need to adjust length and crimp at the servo end.

Nice cardboard tube running down to the back for the elevator servos to keep wires neat and out of the way.

Using kit supplied ball links and turnbuckle push rods (nice)

Used kit supplied rudder arm, bolted to red hitec servo X arm.

For Elevators Im using the miracle alloy arms (Futaba Spline on PowerHD Servos)

Ailerons I have Hitec digitals, so installed Seacraft arms from DA Aust.

Stock alloy arms supplied with kit are fine, but I was in a hurry to build, so ready set go bolt on arms were the go, and most importantly look flash too

Scott
DL Engines AU

Originally Posted by timbo0279

Do you sell the velocity stacks Scott?? I have had the very same problem of fuel spit with my engine.. and I have a feeling it may have even caused the throttle servo to fail (mounted in almost the exactly same spot...).. would be a good idea to get one on there if I can.. and it minimises the fuel coating the internals...

Yep

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dl...&productId=172

Will fit most motors with Walbro carby bolt spacing.

Originally Posted by DLEnginesAU

Yep

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dl...&productId=172

Will fit most motors with Walbro carby bolt spacing.

Thanks Scott.. I will jump on tonight and get one!! along with a few other bits and pieces...

Cowl has plywood ring already installed with blind nuts, 4 in cowl ring, and 2 in airframe.

Fits nice, and easy to install.

Instructions show how easy it is to install the bottom bolts through the front of a YAK cowl, with no engine installed

To get to bottom ones, with an engine in your plane (fly better with one of those) I had to make some holes in the bottom corners of the cowl to get a long reach driver to the bolts. Might be more elegant way of doing, but you dont notice the holes on the bottom anyway.

The other 4 are screwed in from the back from other side, and easy to get to.

Fitted twistlock type fuel dot to side of cowl, with scrap piece of 3mm ply epoxied inside to support.

Scott
DL Engines AU

Originally Posted by DLEnginesAU

All the hinging was done by the factory with robart style hinges, except for the rudder. I hate doing hinges, so this was a high point for me

I am glad I am not the only one who hates installing hinges.... especially with epoxy..... I have always found that by the time you get to the 5th hinge on a wing or something, the epoxy is just starting to go off and is really hard to get into the holes properly... and the stress is starting to build , worrying about the alignment of all the hinges.... I hate the job.. usually try and put it off to last... heh heh heh heh

Only complaints I have so far, is no mounting points for switches. Every bit of ply that can be laser cut out has been. So had to make up some small ply plates to epoxy in place to fit switches too.

Im a little fussy, so took a while to do so that they fitted nice, and finished flush with the covering etc.

The covering seems to wrinkle fairly easy too, so will take the odd freshen up with the iron I think, might settle down after a few days in warm weather, and re-shrinks with iron.

With ignition battery up front, 3.5" Alum spinner and canister it came out nose heavy from recommended spot in instructions. Not grossly nose heavy, but a bit more than just slight nose down I normally aim for.

Flys well though, and seems close to right when flying, inverted 45 upline did show it as being a fraction nose heavy too, but not excessive. I have lighter standoffs coming (the ones at the moment are home made from solid 19mm ALum Rod so quite heavy)

Will be removing ignition battery to install "Zeus Kill Switch" from 42% that allows you to run ignition off your main RX pack (has built in adjustable volt reg too) This will eliminate ignition switch, ignition battery and all the wiring that goes with it. Just waiting on stock.

This will sort out my slight nose heavy, And is why I havent shifted battery to adjust yet. Will also shed some weight and I will report back on how it flys with the slight change in CG.

But it does fly very well, looks big in the sky, and the Green/Black is very easy to see at any angle.

Seems like unlimited vertical with the 55. Rolls are quite axial etc, doesnt want to snap out when getting a bit hard on the elevator or anything nasty. Landings are easy/floats in, even on the hot bumpy day of the maiden.

Took 3 clicks of up elevator (maybe cause of nose heavy) and one click of right aileron to have it flying straight/level.

Thats all Ive got for now....more coming through the week.

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines AU