Originally Posted by The Ghost

Tim,

Gone with the green (It's a greeeeeeen one) I have a few red models so some thing different. Have a spare smoke system kicking around, will look at it after the model arives.

Cheers

Sweeeet. It's a nice looking plane! A bit radioactive looking but in a nice way...

Originally Posted by monarocoupe

Sounds great time, Good to hear that you have got it under way , Look forward to see the pics of your progress. Tim with your horns get the dubro composite set its around $20 aud, and you get enough to do the whole plane and theres a few different sizes too and one for the pull pull servos too. I have used these on the smaller planes and also on my sbach, works great and there light.

Cheers tim.

Cheers for the heads up. I'll check it out. Pretty keen to swap out the stock control arms.

T

Originally Posted by The Ghost

Still thinking about changing the 38 over to elect ign same as I done with my 62. Saved over 450g with the 62. After weighing all the bits and then adding the new bits I could save over 500g on the 38. Would have to make up a new engine hub for the 38 as DLengines don't list a conversion, no problem just a pain.

Photos. G62 running on Elect ign, G38 running on mag, Light bits, Heavy bits.

Cheers

Wow that's a massive weight saving! Gotta be worth it... Engine looks killer...

Hey guys,

Here are a few pics of the build sesh last night. Pretty straight forward stuff. I also laid out the standard hardware to show what comes with the kit. The standard control horns seem ok, but I'm pretty keen to stay away from the Power HD servo arms so thinking about changing them to alu style arms. The control arms supplied with the kit are fairly heavy.

I made up a template for my DLE30 this afternoon. The standoffs will JUST fit on the firewall - prob will 1 or 2 mm overhang on the bottom edge. Plus the engine will be a couple of millimetres lower than centre so that the standoff flanges dont hit the top edge of the firewall. I'll post pics when I drill it up. Tight but ok.

Tim

Some pics, including hardware and the DLE30 rear carb.

Some more, including internal structure....

Hinging and servos...

Tim,
I have used them fiber type control horns before and they are very strong. I don't thnk you will have to change them for C/F ones. The model looks great, can't wait for mine to arive. What is the dimensions of the firewall, may have to look at a different type of mount setup as I use soft mounts for my gassers.

Cheers

I have the same hinge glue.. would you use that on the robart pin hinges also? just getting ready to hinge stabs ailerons etc on my ca edge 540

Originally Posted by Bryan185

I have the same hinge glue.. would you use that on the robart pin hinges also? just getting ready to hinge stabs ailerons etc on my ca edge 540

Hey mate,

This type of hinge glue seems to work really well with robart style hinges (are are on the MX2). It creates a strong bond and is water soluble which means that you can use plenty of glue, have the hinge pin set in close to the hinge point (even slightly buried to eliminate hinge gap) and then have plenty of time to clean up the excess (with water).

I put a tiny drop of oil in the hinge pin before applying the glue, then cleaned up the excess once the hinges were glued (even did both sides of the hinges at once on some surfaces). The result was completely bind free hinges and no scuffing whatsoever on the covering. This would've been a much tricker job with epoxy or CA. Highly recommend.

This bottle only cost me $6 too... was pretty much equivalent price to similar type wood glue at a hardware store (here in oz anyway).

Good luck with it.

Tim

Originally Posted by The Ghost

Tim,
I have used them fiber type control horns before and they are very strong. I don't thnk you will have to change them for C/F ones. The model looks great, can't wait for mine to arive. What is the dimensions of the firewall, may have to look at a different type of mount setup as I use soft mounts for my gassers.

Cheers

Hey Ghost,

Sorry, I meant the servo control arms - the ones supplied with the kit are the type which screw on to the top of the existing plastic servo arms (I think they are steel not aluminium). I want to do away with the Power HD servo arms so hoping to use 1 piece aluminium style arms (hopefully with a secondary screw on the side, like 'miracle' arms, so I don't have to rely as heavily on the thread in the servos).

The fibreglass control horns supplied with the kit (which I've now epoxied in) seem really strong - particularly with the double layer with the HD ball link sandwiched in between. There is a lot of surface area contacting the control surfaces which seems very robust. This feels to be a better setup than the aluminium tube style of control horn which I think Dolphin Co supplied with previous versions of their kits. These flat style control horns supplied with the kit remind me of the ones on my PA Extra MX (except they are single surface CF on that model) which work really well - very responsive.

BTW - I'll measure up the firewall when I get home tonight and shoot through the details. I'll also take a pic of the template on the firewall so you can see where the mount will be using standoffs. I like the idea of a soft mount with all the vibration. I think i'm going to stick with the standoffs but reinforce the firewall with fibreglass (and perhaps even a couple of pins).

Tim

Tim,
Thanks for the heads up with the servo control horns, something else I will need to put on the list. The soft mounts I have for this require a 16mm hole in the firewall and it needs to be 1/2" thick. Have used them before and I just cut a 1/4" x 1/4" circle with 16mm centre hole out of ply and glue to the rear of firewall for each mount.

Cheers

Originally Posted by The Ghost

Tim,
Thanks for the heads up with the servo control horns, something else I will need to put on the list. The soft mounts I have for this require a 16mm hole in the firewall and it needs to be 1/2" thick. Have used them before and I just cut a 1/4" x 1/4" circle with 16mm centre hole out of ply and glue to the rear of firewall for each mount.

Cheers

Hey Ghost,

I did a quick measure up of the firewall - the dimensions (excluding the flange... so just counting the flat real estate for the engine mount) are about 114mm x 69mm (horizontal x vertical).

I've attached a pic of a rough template of the DLE30 standoff spacing sitting on the firewall (not quite stuck down flat so the overhang at the bottom probably looks lightly worse than it actually is - prob only about 1 - 2mm). Sorry for poor quality - was taken on my phone (and in the dark - my light bulb as blown ha ha).

Hope that helps. Horizontal space is fine - it's only the vertical that is a bit tight.

My standoffs are prob about 12mm dia, so a 16mm dia flange could be a squeeze without some sort of mod - but this obviously depends on the spacing on your engine.

You can also see that there's room for a cannister. I'm just using the stock muffler though - I can't justify a cannister for a 30cc.

T

Tim,
Thanks for the info. Got home from flying and mine had arrived (6days) great service. Now for the part of deciding what servos to use, I have 6 JR 8411 kicking around for another project, may be over kill.
The greeeeeeeeeeen is not fluro its RADIOACTIVE.
Will post pics as I go as well so people may get other ideas.

Forgot, First I have to sit down with a beer and read the Assmbly Manual.
Cheers

Originally Posted by The Ghost

Tim,
Thanks for the info. Got home from flying and mine had arrived (6days) great service. Now for the part of deciding what servos to use, I have 6 JR 8411 kicking around for another project, may be over kill.
The greeeeeeeeeeen is not fluro its RADIOACTIVE.
Will post pics as I go as well so people may get other ideas.

Forgot, First I have to sit down with a beer and read the Assmbly Manual.
Cheers

Ha ha yeah my eyes are burning just from the pic you posted. I've never taken this thing outside... with the sun on it the covering is so bright it should be illegal!

How about you fit that smoke system and work out how to make the smoke green so that you've got a green streak with a radioactive stream trailing behind?

You'll be finished reading the manual in no time... it is damn basic - mainly just pics.
Check out the last page - it is a HILARIOUS guide to RC, apparently explaining the various steps to safe start up and flying. It is some of the BEST engrish I have seen so far. I've been planning on scanning it and loading it on here for entertainment value...

The JR8411's will do it, that's for sure! Might be overkill but won't hurt, particularly because there isn't really any weight penalty. Good for 3D. Gotta give more comfort than the Power HDs I'm using (which have enough torque but question their reliability).

BTW - if you've got Realflight, I recommend downloading the MXS created by a guy called 'The Gibson'. It's the same colour scheme as our MX2 (although not nearly as radioactive) and is one of the best flying planes on the sim.

T