Thank you for correcting me, pe! I used the wrong term here. Should have said tip speed rather than angular velocity.

Originally Posted by notruthless

...You are measuring revolutions not angular velocity.

Originally Posted by pe reivers

...
Angular velocity (degrees movement) is the same all over the prop. Real SPEED (velocity) is largest at the tips, because there the measuring RADIUS is largest.
...

Originally Posted by Outlaw308

OK who makes a Good tech? The one I have does not seem to read half of the time.

I believe this to be the best out there !!

http://www.fromeco.org/categories/Su...TNC_Tachometer

I use the JP micro tacho. There are many good ones out there.
Bad readings can be caused by sunshine reflections, like noted before. Try to read rpm in a shaded area or use some neutral background.

I use the rxexcel tach and plug into the tach lead on the DLE-111. It reads off the hall sensor. No light readings from the prop.

Originally Posted by js/rc

I believe this to be the best out there !!

http://www.fromeco.org/categories/Su...TNC_Tachometer

Thanks for the Info. I will check it out.

Hey guys was doing a little maintaince on my DLE 111 with about 4 gallon run through it. Plugs are not the same color left plug very black with some deposit on it right plug black but not as much as the other one. Is this normal

Thanks

Adam

Just a little more info the top of the cylinder with the really black plug looks brand new. And there seems to be a lot more black oil in that exhaust stack compared to other cylinder

Thanks

Adam

Originally Posted by Theflyinglineman

Just a little more info the top of the cylinder with the really black plug looks brand new. And there seems to be a lot more black oil in that exhaust stack compared to other cylinder

Thanks

Adam

Try leaning out the carb settings.
How was the engine running ?

A slight difference between plugs is normal. Plugs should not be black though. That means the mixture is too rich and power will be low.

black plugs = carbon build up inside the combustion chamber. Like Pe says, that robs power but also makes the engine run hotter.

Hmmmm,
Not according to my observations. With the engine on the verge of 4-stroking with occasional misses my cylinder wall temperatures were down to 200F. Plugs were pitch black, and a lot of soot in the exhaust stack and muffler due to free carbon in the combustion gasses. Plugs would not last long before they would start missing beats due to fouling, but the engine metal was quite cool. Maybe the expelled gasses are hotter, but I cannot measure that.

What ever happened to mfuess and his tech page?

Originally Posted by mfuess

Before you begin your tuneup, reset your needles to factory settings to start from gouund zero.

It's best to set the topend first. Start your engine, let it warm up. Transition to full throttle. Adjust the HIGHEND NEEDLE to peak RPM. Then, SLOWLY throttle back until the engine begins to FOUR STROKE. At the point, adjust the LOWEND needle until the FOUR STROKING stops. Pull the throttle down more until it FOUR STROKES again and repeat this until you reach full IDLE. NOW, transition up rapidly. IF it sags or bogs, open the LOWEND needle SLIGHTLY until the sagging is gone... YOU"RE DONE!

One big MISTAKE people make (when they tune up a gasser) is to peak the engine then back off the needle to richen it up slightly just like a glow fuel engine. DO NOT DO THAT! Once your carb is properly tuned to peak it will maintain the CORRECT air to fuel balance. Richening it up only causes the engine to run wet and inefficient. IF you are not sure if you have a good tune, look inside your muffler or pull your spark plug. It'll tell you real quick. If it's black & wet its time to re-do your tune.

I assume this is on an engine that is broken in . I am talking about the part to set high end to max rpm. Just trying to learn.

honestly , i did the tach tune thing.......aftrer about umteen tries.....TUNE IT TO WhERE IT SOUNDS THJE BEST!!!!!! forgit all the rest of the bs and make it reliable.
You will be much happier.

What is a good safe temperatures for a DA-85 head 200 225 ????? and where would you take the reading at the plug area or just on the head any where?