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Old 01-26-2009, 09:49 PM
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Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

My flying buddy was over the other day and we were talking about what planes we were wanting for our next projects. We were talkig about different planes and how much we miss building. I haven't done an actuall build for many years and have been missing it. My My buddy Rick, Skydiver on the site was saying that he wanted his next plane to be for the 26cc gas engine he bought last summer. About that time I remembered that I had bought a set of planes from Jerry L. Smith at the 2007 St. Louis huckfest for his Spoiler. I pulled them out and we had our projects.

We decided that we were both going to build oneand set down and ordered the wood. The balsa and ply came from one place and a phone call to Aircraft Spruce and Specility had the spruce for the spars and longerons on the way.

While waiting on the wood to get in I was thinking aobut how to make the build easier and how to get both planes to come out the same. Jigs came to mind and I sat and figured out how I was going to make the jigs.


The Jigs are made on MDF board and are angle aluminum screwed down. To transfer the plans to the MDF I went out and got some carbon paper laid the plans down and started transfering the different sections to the MDF. Then it was just a matter of screwing down the angle pieces.


The wood came in and we got started. It was then easy to mark and cut the pieces to size. We found that we could lay a piece of wood in the jig and align the pieces one over the other then use an xacto to mark the piece to be cut. Cut it just a little long then sand to the mark on a disk sander.





We then cut small pieces of wax paper to put under the glue joints to keep from glueing the parts to the jig.


We started with the truss build fuse sides.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:01 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

With a little more wood you guys could punch out a dozen ! Umm, need some more sticks ?
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:08 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

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Old 01-27-2009, 02:58 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

I have photos ready to upload. The snow storm caused me to get called into work on the ambulance tonight. Will post more soon.
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:26 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Most of the detailed photos will be taken of the second plane being built. I have found it is hard to build and take photos at the same time. One thing that you might notice in some of the shots is some dark colored spruce on the fuse sides and spars. The dark spruce is some that my buddy had laying around for about 20 years from an old ultralight project. We ripped it down for use on these builds.

Here are some shots of the fuse in different stages of construction.

This shot shows a fuse side fully laid up in the jig. In the background is the completed fuse.



Here is a shot of a full side out of the jig and the start on another in the jig. Notice the clamps holding the pieces in place in the jig.



After the fuse sides come out of the jig next step is to put in the spacers around the bottom of the wing saddle. Then the inside of the fuse gets a 1/32 ply re-enforcement at the front and back and a few gussets. I will post photos of this step when we get the second plane to this step.

The jig for the top and bottom of the fuse was a little different. The bottom of the fuse has two angles from end to end and the top will not sit flat on a board because the area of the F1 former is higher than the line from tail to trailing edge of the wing. To jig it up, I built a jig that has the angles for the bottom of the fuse to sit in.



The sides are placed in the jig. I then put in the firewall and F1 and F2 formers. Next I trussed in the bottom of the fuse, including the tail wheel plate.. After the glue sets in the bottom of the fuse. I then used a 3/8"x 3" piece of balsa with a square end to insure that the sides of the back section was square and trussed in the top of the fuse and the filler for around the vertical stab.

While the fuse was still in the jig I put the triangle stock in on the sides of F1 and the firewall. Once that was set up, I pulled it out of the jig and glued in the landing gear plates. Once the landing gear plates were set up then came the 1/32 sheeting along the front of the fuse. I then went back and placed the triangle stock along the bottom of the firewall and F1. I also added a piece of triangle along the bottom of F2 on the front side for a little more support of the bottom sheeting.

Here is a shot of the fuse in the jig




Another shot showing the progression from just starting in the jig to full fuse with vertical stab and rudder sitting in place. (Note: The shelf in the background really isn't warped like that. It is just a trick of the wide angle lens on the camera.)



I will post more detailed photos of the fuse build as the second one gets to that point.
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:35 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'd like to officially announce that there actually is a COMPANY completely producing ARF's in the USA!
Welcome Wizards's ARF's and long bows.
"Your one stop Spoiler shop!"

For only $1,200 you will get a custom, hand labored, jig built masterpiece. Carbon fiber? NO! How about 20 year old spruce intertwined !!! That is QUALITY!!!
And since all are planes are jig built, you are assured straight and true performance out of your plane.

Right after Wiz builds my complimentary Spoiler, the build list will begin.

#1) Sleepy - Cost $0
#2) - Cost $1200
#3) - Cost $1200

Go ahead and fill in your names guys! Hurry, this list will fill up fast!




PS: Wiz, the planes and your jigs look great. Nice work. Good to see your building again!
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:42 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Her is a shot of the jig for the vertical stab and rudder.



Here is a shot of that jig and the jig for the elevator with the elevator laid up.


All the tail is built from 3/8 x 3/8 balsa. The vertical stab, rudder and horizontal stab have a piece that is laminated for strength and to prevent warping. The plans state that you can use carbon fiber or ply for the lamination or just use a 3/8 x 3/4 piece of balsa. I am using 1/16"ply.

Once the elevator and rudder come out of the jig a piece of 1/4" triangle is glued onto the leading edge for the hinge bevel.
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:52 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Sleepy, actually there is a company getting ready to sell the ARF kit of the Spoiler. East R/C has purchased the rights to the Spoiler and is taking pre-orders. You can find their page here. I was actually lucky enough to get a set of plans when they were still available from Jerry. It just took me over 1 1/2 years to get started building.

Tomorrow is another trip to Lowe's for more angle to make the last two jigs for ailerons and horizontal stab.

The wing will be build on an old Adjusto-jig after a little repair and TLC to the jig to get it straight and true.

Stay tuned for future updates.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:05 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomer260 View Post
With a little more wood you guys could punch out a dozen ! Umm, need some more sticks ?
One of the reasons that we built the jigs is so that we could build more as needed for replacement later. I have been known to re-kit a plane or two. The nice part about doing a scratch build is that you can build replacement parts fairly easily when needed.

Don't really need more sticks but once everything is setup, a person could build one of these in a couple of weekends. I could always let someone use the jigs and my shop to do a build.
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:35 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Looks great, Michael. I still have one in the bones that Jerry framed up for me a few years ago that I have yet to finish. You have almost inspired me to dust off my covering iron.
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Last edited by scalefreak; 01-29-2009 at 12:35 AM. Reason: spell check
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:48 AM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Quote:
Originally Posted by scalefreak View Post
Looks great, Michael. I still have one in the bones that Jerry framed up for me a few years ago that I have yet to finish. You have almost inspired me to dust off my covering iron.
Hopefully, the rest of the thread will Finally get you inspired.
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:20 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

Here is one thing we found while trussing up the sides that made life a little easier. We would fit and glue all but one of the truss pieces inplace then go back and cut the last one to fit. If we tried to cut them all then glue, it seamed like we would have to go back and recut the last one anyway.



Once the sides are trussed and out of the jig the next step is to put the wing saddle fillers in place. The best thing to use to get the spacing is the partial rib. Cut the partial rib out of 1/4" balsa. Save the extra to use for the rear filler. I used a mock up of the center section of the wing that I build playing around waiting on the wood to come in. The process we used to cut the fillers. For the front we cut a piece that would fit the angle at F1 and the angle spruce at the wing saddle. Then use the partial rib held in place as a pattern. We cut them out with a scrollsaw. then glued in place using masking tape to clamp.




The rear filler is cut from a piece of the cut off balsa from the partial rib. We lined up the piece under the side and again used the partial rib to position the piece. We then just used a hobby knife to cut the piece. Again glued and held in place with Clamp on a roll (masking tape).




Once you get the fillers in place then it is time to sand the sides. The inside of the front needs to be flat for the 1/32" Ply doubler. The rest of the inside isn't critical just a matter of preference on how smooth you want it. The outside will have a 1/8" dowel to hold the covering off the truss work. (Before someone comments on the photo, Rick got a little ahead of himself and sanded the side before the wing saddle spacers were in place.)

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Old 01-29-2009, 08:46 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

looks awesome, wish i was back home to join in...
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:45 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

This build thread is going to skip around a little due to the different stages of the two planes and when I have the photos of the different processes.

We decided to use an Adjusto-Jig to build the wings on. My buddy Rick had the Adjusto-Jig in his shop and it's been around for quite a few years. Unfortunately it is no longer available. When looking over the jig we noticed it was starting to show it's age and the center connector/pivot was no longer straight and needed some repair. I reworked the center section and made new stands for the ends. I will start another thread for the rework and use of the Adjusto-Jig.





The last of the wood came in today and I decided to go ahead and start the wing. I'm using a Dewalt scroll saw to cut the ribs and I'm cutting all the ribs at one time. The first thing to do is make sure that the saw is setup correctly and tuned to make a straight cut. There are many types of scroll saws and many are very good and can do the stack cut of the ribs. If your saw uses pin end blades I would only cut 2 or 4 at a time.

Lets talk a little about tuning of the scroll saw. The first thing you need to adjust is blade alignment. To check the alignment put a new blade in the saw place a piece of white paper behind the blade an inch or two to increase visibility. Then start the saw and look at the blade from straight in front. The blade should look like a single blade with no blurring on either side. If the blade is out of alignment it will look wider and blurry, this is called blade blur. Most saws have an allen screw on one side of the blade holder and a thumb screw on the other. If you see blade blur then adjust the allen screw to change the alignment of the blade and repeat the test until the blur is gone. It might take a few tries to get it right.

The next step is to square the table to the blade. You can try to use a square or one of the gages sold for this purpose, but there is an easier way. Just make a shallow cut into a thick block of wood. Then turn the piece around and place behind the blade. If the blade will go in to the saw kerf then the table is square to the blade. If the saw kerf is at an angle to the blade then the table is out of alignment. Adjust the table and retest until the blade is square. In the first photo you can see two cuts in the piece. The one to the right of the blade is at an angle and the one directly behind the blade is square.





Now that we have the saw setup the next thing to get ready is the blanks to cut the ribs. The ribs are a little over 12" long and 3" width. We purchased 4" x 48" sheets to use for the ribs. There are 18 full ribs used so I started with 9 sheets and taped the stack square. I cut the stack into 2 24" sections untaped the two stack and created one stack of 18. I then tightly taped all the edges of the stack and made sure that the stack was squarely aligned. With all the edges taped tight you can cut the stack as if it was one piece of wood. Remember we are building 2 panes so I will end up with two stacks of 18 from this one blank.

I took the lid off the scanner for my computer and scanned in the rib pattern. Then I printed out 2 copies and cut then from the sheet of paper with a little extra around the pattern. I then used a good spray glue on the back of the pattern to attach the patterns to the stack of wood. By using the 4" width I could offset the patterns and get the two sets of ribs from the one 24" stack.




I next cut the stack into two sections to make it easier to work. Anytime I cut an area away from the stack I re-tape the edge of the stack to keep the stack tight and aligned. Now it's time to cut the ribs. I used a fine tooth blade and a medium to fast speed on the saw, about 3/4 of full speed, for better control. One word of caution. Make sure that the only pressure on the blade is straight into the teeth of the blade, any sideways pressure will bow the blade and throw off the cut. When I cut the ribs I make many cuts instead of trying to do it I one cut. I cut the trailing edge square first then cut from the trailing edge to the spar area then separate the offal from the stack and re-tape the edge.






I continue around the rib then go back and cut the notches.





When I cut the rib notches, I cut them just a little under sized then bring them to size with a few passes of a jewels file.






On this plane the plans call for a hole for the servo leads through a number of the ribs. I went ahead and cut the hole through all the ribs while I had the stack intact. The holes won't affect the other ribs and it was just easier. This was done as a pierce cut. Start by drilling a hole then threading the blade of the saw through the hole and saw it out.



I then separated the stack and made a stack of 8 ribs and cut the holes for the servo rails.

Then all the ribs were unstacked and the holes made for the Adjusto_jig.




Here are some shots of the ribs in the wing jig.



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Last edited by wizard; 01-31-2009 at 11:31 PM. Reason: problem with the photos
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:37 PM
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Re: Scratch build Spoiler - dual build, done a little differently

You guys are rollin along!
Nice!
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