logo
Thread Tools
Old 10-22-2019, 10:05 AM
ama11441 is offline
Find More Posts by ama11441
John
ama11441's Avatar
United States, NY, Saratoga County
Joined Oct 2016
10 Posts
I buypremixed fuel for the 1 Quart Cans and refill with local rec gas. The purchased fuel is spiked with added lubeto use in my Evolution 8cc & 10 and DLE and VVRC 20 cc engines. Mixing 1 quart at a time works for me aswell as a source of fresh fuel. In NYnon-ethanol recreational gas is available. I use the Dubro Kwik-Flll Fuel Pumpattached to the quart can cap andstore it with fuel line and filter in an empty quart can between flyingsessions.
John
ama11441 is offline Find More Posts by ama11441
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old 10-22-2019, 09:24 PM
suds is online now
Find More Posts by suds
indywestrc & viehercfliers
suds's Avatar
United States, IN, Zionsville
Joined Jul 2014
538 Posts
Thankfully I'm fortunate to have access to ethanol-free relatively close to home.
suds is online now Find More Posts by suds
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-22-2019, 11:51 PM
A.Delaney is offline
Find More Posts by A.Delaney
Registered User
United States, IL, Streator
Joined May 2018
94 Posts
That’s nice ^^^^. Do you think it’s safe to run 110 octane leaded racing fuel in the engines? I do have that available at the pump.
A.Delaney is offline Find More Posts by A.Delaney
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-23-2019, 09:41 AM
Bill Vargas is online now
Find More Posts by Bill Vargas
3W/ZDZ Flyer
Bill Vargas's Avatar
United States, CA, Apple Valley
Joined Mar 2011
3,238 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Delaney View Post
Thatís nice ^^^^. Do you think itís safe to run 110 octane leaded racing fuel in the engines? I do have that available at the pump.
No. These little engines are not designed for High Octane gas. Run what the engine manual states and youíll be just fine
Bill Vargas is online now Find More Posts by Bill Vargas
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-23-2019, 08:19 PM
Toothata540 is offline
Find More Posts by Toothata540
Huckin', Learnin', & Burnin'
Toothata540's Avatar
United States, MA, Montague
Joined Dec 2013
602 Posts
I broke in my DLE 35 on 100LL and that with a bowmans ring made that little engine a powerhouse. In fact the jug was almost as smooth as a DA. The only issue was that every 10-12 flights I had to change the plug because the electrode would get plated with Pb. The higher octane stuff also runs cooler if you have overheating issues.
Toothata540 is offline Find More Posts by Toothata540
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-23-2019, 08:38 PM
RCAddiction is online now
Find More Posts by RCAddiction
Registered User
RCAddiction's Avatar
United States, FL, Sarasota
Joined Jan 2006
1,093 Posts
  1. Quality gas from Shell
  2. Redline oil for 40:1 ratio
  3. Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer (same as I use in my generator and pressure washer)
done.


Oh, and ethanol does not harm aluminum or steel parts. Urban myth. However, ethanol is hygroscopic (attracts water). The water causes corrosion. On lawn and garden equipment, try to keep your tanks either full (with no air above the fuel) between seasons, or run them dry if they will be left for years unused.
RCAddiction is online now Find More Posts by RCAddiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2019, 04:36 PM
Toothata540 is offline
Find More Posts by Toothata540
Huckin', Learnin', & Burnin'
Toothata540's Avatar
United States, MA, Montague
Joined Dec 2013
602 Posts
+1 to the Mad Doctor - I’ve even found with cheaper fuels that you are more apt to have water dissociated in the fuel.

A top tier gasoline is definitely key. The Cumberland Farms - Gulf gas around here is cheap but costs more to run. I did a mileage test on my old truck and would consistently get 18-19 with Shell or Sunoco and about 16.5 with cumby’s on the same 75mile route. Shell, Mobil, Sunoco, 76, etc..., are by far better fuels and have a better shelf life if you don’t burn it right away too.
Toothata540 is offline Find More Posts by Toothata540
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2019, 05:07 PM
Truckracer is online now
Find More Posts by Truckracer
Registered User
Des Moines, Iowa USA
Joined Nov 2007
4,855 Posts
Major brands of gas compared to convenience store gas ..... depends on the part of the country you are from. In many areas like here in the center of the country, our gas comes to this area in one of two pipelines. Some areas are only served by one pipeline. There are no refiners in our area. The various refiners dump the various grades of gasoline (base 85 octane, premium, etc) in at the head end of the pipeline and along the way as the pipeline passes various other refiners along its path north. There is no distinction between brands as it passes through the pipeline. The various products are separated by pigs or large blocks of water in the pipe. The various grades of gas are mixed at the pipeline truck terminal to become the various different octane products and additives are added to make the gas a specific branded product. So all the gasoline products are the same until they become a branded product at the truck terminal. Ethanol is also added at this point. Yup, I use to haul the stuff in a previous life so know the process well.

Only in an area where a specific refiner is nearby, would a gasoline product come directly from a refinery and even then my bet is the refiner would mix the gas on site as it is dumped in the truck to suit specific brand needs. More than likely they would sell refined product under several different brand names.

In Iowa and surrounding states, except when getting up near the great lakes or near KC, I see zero difference between gasoline products so I pay little attention to brand names knowing it all pretty much comes from the same source and is all handled the same. Any busy station will sell so much gas each and every week, it has no time to get stale or develop any problems. Even back in the days when there was a station of every corner, I use to drop an 8000+ gallon load at busy stations every 2 days or so. I'm sure the busy convenience stores sell way more than that these days.

Yes, I'm sure the rules are different in coastal states or in states where refineries are abundant but in the heart of the country, there is consistency of quality between so called brands.

The quality of refined gasoline products around the country is another story. Many problems blamed on ethanol are the result of some really crummy refined gasoline base stocks .... and I'm no supporter of ethanol in any way.
Truckracer is online now Find More Posts by Truckracer
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2019, 05:33 PM
Bunky F. Knuckle is online now
Find More Posts by Bunky F. Knuckle
Just your Average Joe.
Bunky F. Knuckle's Avatar
Joined Jan 2006
8,493 Posts
I keep telling my pops to stop running the cheapest $$$ fuel you can find, especially in his Corvette's. What you save today, you will eventually spend tomorrow on new injectors or a rebuild on that carb'd SBC 350 you have. Run a Tier 1 fuel, Shell, BP, Sunoco in all you have.

Im sure its all theory that a top tier fuel runs better than the local Speedway, QuikTrip, Kroger, WalMart, Sams Club type fuels. I generally use fuel from Shell nearest the local highways, because of the amount of fuel they sell.
Bunky F. Knuckle is online now Find More Posts by Bunky F. Knuckle
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2019, 09:20 PM
DGrant is offline
Find More Posts by DGrant
Just havin' fun!
DGrant's Avatar
United States, CA, Clovis
Joined Apr 2006
579 Posts
I run pump gas, Redline oil 40:1, don't need stabilizer, as I run through probably 4-5 gallons a month.

Years and years of service from my engines... 50cc-100+cc. I have a 50cc engine that's 17yrs old and still runs excellent.. another 102 that's probably 10yrs old, still runs great.

I'm very religious on mixing my fuel in that I measure as accurately as I can using my Ratio-Rite cup, and buying only specific exact amounts of gas. For me that's the most important of anything. Always consistent and accurate in mixing and measuring has kept me in the game.

We all have to use what we come to know and trust, and the above is what's worked for me... It's a great ride!
DGrant is offline Find More Posts by DGrant
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2019, 11:45 PM
A.Delaney is offline
Find More Posts by A.Delaney
Registered User
United States, IL, Streator
Joined May 2018
94 Posts
When I do mix fuel. I also use a ratio rite. I put the oil in first then go to the gas station to fill the can. Mixes it perfect every time.
A.Delaney is offline Find More Posts by A.Delaney
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2019, 04:45 AM
jamesrxx951 is offline
Find More Posts by jamesrxx951
Registered User
jamesrxx951's Avatar
toledo ohio
Joined Jan 2009
10,519 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Delaney View Post
When I do mix fuel. I also use a ratio rite. I put the oil in first then go to the gas station to fill the can. Mixes it perfect every time.
I too use a ratio rite cup. But I do it at the fuel station. I add the oil in first and then fill the cup with fuel to get the last bit of oil in the cup. Then too off fuel. Another thing I do is fill a few gallons of fuel into my truck first and then to my fuel can. Because I run premium fuel due to tuned pipes, I just want to make sure i have a full mixture of 93 in there. Plus my truck can use the extra fuel anyways. Not sure if it is worth all the extra steps but it makes me feel better.
jamesrxx951 is offline Find More Posts by jamesrxx951
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-27-2019, 07:13 AM
crazyjoe is online now
Find More Posts by crazyjoe
Registered User
crazyjoe's Avatar
co
Joined Jan 2006
985 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyboy082662 View Post
Same here....I've never had to change any internal parts in any of my carbs including my weed whacker that's 18 seasons old. I never drain my tanks, I leave about 1/4 tank at all times and even after sitting for months like the weed whacker surly does all winter...I just add fresh fuel on top and everything has always been just fine. I have always ran 87 in everything I own....never an issue except changing the old fuel lines.
Same here
crazyjoe is online now Find More Posts by crazyjoe
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2019, 11:24 AM
jharkin is offline
Find More Posts by jharkin
Registered User
jharkin's Avatar
United States, MA, Holliston
Joined Jul 2007
659 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Delaney View Post
Well I had a carb issue with my Stihl chainsaw. I took it in to have it looked at and was told the problem was the carb. Which I already knew. I was told a carb kit wouldn’t fix it because ethanol in the gas had corroded the aluminum. The carb needed replaced. Now I don’t know about the long term affects of ethanol on aluminum. What I do know is we use aluminum anode rods in our coolant tanks to keep chemicals from attacking the machine. It attack’s the aluminum instead. You can pull the rod and see how bad the aluminum has been eatin away. I assumed this had the same affect with ethanol. Maybe not. Glad I asked.
The aluminum cooling system components corrode because the coolant mix is 50% water (the rest is ethelyne glycol and corrosion inhibitors). There is no alcohol in a typical automotive antifreeze mix AFAIK.

Do a test. Buy some denatured alcohol at the hardware store and put it in a jar with a small piece of aluminum (angle iron, wing tube, etc) being careful to fill the jar as full as you can and seal it tight to keep out air... then watch it for a few months. I doubt you will see any change.



Ethanol in fuels get an undeserved bad rap for a few reasons:

1- Ethanol is a strong solvent and will actually clean old varnish deposits out of a fuel system. Problem is if you take some old lawn tool that has decades of buildup and run E10 it gets a good cleaning and all that junk gets carried through and gets stuck at the smallest point - usually the carb jets. Some tech opens this up and not knowing any better just blames the thing that has changed - the new fuel.

2 - Ethanol eats natural rubber. So if you use really old equipment it will degrade the diaphragms and fuel lines. Few of us run 20+ year old engines (and those who do have probably replaced rubber parts by now) in our planes so this is moot.

3 - Ethanol attracts water. This is actually GOOD as it bonds to any water that gets into the fuel and carries it through the engine harmlessly. (Ethanol is the active ingredient in DryGas for this very reason). It does become a problem if you get a very large volume of water as phase separation can occur, but the ironic thing is that the amount of water required for phase separation is actually HIGHER for ethanol blends than straight gasoline (i.e. water is more of a problem for ethanol free gas than for E10, exactly the opposite of what many people believe)

See
https://ethanolrfa.org/wp-content/up...m_medium=email
jharkin is offline Find More Posts by jharkin
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2019, 01:53 PM
Muttdog is offline
Find More Posts by Muttdog
Registered User
Muttdog's Avatar
United States, FL, Jupiter
Joined Feb 2013
2,758 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesrxx951 View Post
I would have loved to see that carb with it's corrosion. This is my carb when I rebuilt it a few years ago. It was stored both outside and inside. Depended on where I lived at the time.
Those look like Mikuni Super BN carbs, I know them very well. They used to be the standard go to on jet skis. Come to the salty waters in South Florida and I will show you plenty of corrosion!
Muttdog is offline Find More Posts by Muttdog
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message


Quick Reply
Message:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools