Ok, I finished the bird this evening and put one flight on it. It shows promise as an indoor precision aerobatics airplane. Not yet quite as smooth in the air as my Sentinel design, but I think it will get there with some tuning and trimming.

Final all up weight came in at 3.8ozs. Its 3.7 with my lighter packs. Not what I was shooting for, but it proved a point...(some materials I thought would be lighter were not). I think I also overdid it with the paint. Much heavier coats than I had intended...Then again, not many other people are building Shocky sized birds at this weight....

In the air, its definitely light on the wing and will round a corner sharply and precisely (like the top of the inverted triangle loop with half roll on top). Knife edge is spot on with no coupling. I think I have the differential in the ailerons backwards of what I had intended, so I'll pull that and re-do it. Rolls are fairly axial and smooth but show some of that differential issue... I flew it through the looping maneuvers as well as the push-push-pull and 1 roll rolling circle from inverted, and it handled all of them well. With further tuning, it will be even better......

I'm pretty satisfied with it and I know when I finally hit the gym with it I'll enjoy flying the FAI pattern with it (the only indoor aresti I've got right now).

I guess I oughta put up the gear I'm using on this thing.....

Servos - Dymond D4.7's (3)
RCVR- Berg 4 (old style, need to change to the new style and lose some weight) with an Azarr 72L antenna.
ESC - Castle Creations Phoenix 10
Motor - Mighty Midget Competition Special
Battery - 2DogRC 360mah 2cell
Prop -GWS 7-3.5

With this setup and at this weight, it does not have ballistic vertical, it does not need to. However, it definitely has strong uplines and power to get out of trouble while flying the FAI pattern. (this is the same setup I run on my Sentinel).

OK, I've now done one, lets see some other indoor precision aerobatics builds.... : ) Come on Wayne, you need to have something to fly!

Great job man!!! Looks awesome!!! Out with the vid camera!

Jeremy,

I am very amazed by your work. Excellent job!

Thanks ya'll. Yup, now I want to get it into the gym again...

The cool thing about this airplane is that I did not use any 'special' gear, did not remove connectors or grind down any servo cases. This is just standard issue gear anyone can buy.....

Jeremy, if you built a biplane version of your Yak, would you name it the DOUBLE CHINN??? Looks great bro!

Very nice job! I am very impressed to say the least

Thanks Ya'll!!!!

would you name it the DOUBLE CHINN???

Yup, and this one is Chinn with no MSG!!!!

I just got outside with it again. Thank goodness, the wind is next to nothing and its actually warm outside (not very good for me n my father's duck hunt this weekend ), so I put it up on another sortie.

Got the rudder dialed a little better for stall turns. Also dialed a little on the CG as well.

Pitch action on this airplane is great, I'm able to nail the bottom of the inverted triangle loop pretty well with this bird(always a trouble spot for me). Its very smooth on rollers, and will do a very nice round KE loop. I really can't wait to get it into a gymnasium to find out more about what its capable of....

Here's a pic of the side view, and one with my Sentinel F3P for comparison. From the side view, you can see that this one is within 10% (if you don't count the fact that its a profile..)

Allright Wayne, lets see that Aresti already! This bird's hankerin for a run at it... : )

do the drag holes make a big difference?

do the drag holes make a big difference?

Well, all the 'data' I have to go on is purely subjective, but I'd say yes. When I built the first Sentinel, I built it as a basic straight airframe with no 'add-ons'. Then I added things one by one and noted the differences. The drag holes were the first thing I added to the Sentinel, so that was the most 'pure' comparison I got....

What I felt was the airplane slowing smoothly when I deflected a control surface. I did not feel much when in normal flight, but as soon as I moved a stick, it seemed to slow slightly. The more deflection, the more slowing. My hope was that I would get a slowing effect on the top hat downlines, etc. I think I got that...

In that case I guess I better get some brass tubes and try it! On my shocky extra I replaced the tri stock for 3mm depron for support. I added holes to add drag and make it lighter (plus looks cool). I think I may have dramatically reduced rudder coupling because there was almost none much to my surprise.

In that case I guess I better get some brass tubes and try it!

Yeah, its really kinda fun to experiment with. Interesting things you can do with it. Next, I'm going to try to find a way to do the same triangular holes the Noll's are doing, but without using a laser....

yea, charger rc foamies also have the drag holes on them.... I think im gonna try it on my new shocky yak....

alright, i just made some drag holes on my shock flyer yak, and will test fly it on saturday indoors to see the difference.

My question is how did you get it so light? I though 5 oz was light?... guess not! How are you guys painting the foam? Did you use just standard depron? How much a sheet?

Thanks,

Jamie