Just about to put together my first 50cc plane.

I am planning on using a 7 channel JR receiver, RG731bx

http://www.jramericas.com/233812/JRPR03409/

I have had a variety of different advice about whether I can run the receiver as is, with the servos all running of the receiver bus, or whether I need a powerbus type arrangement (either home made or bought).

In terms of power (I will be running if only using the receiver):

2S 5000mAh LiPo (into channel 7)
+
Optipower Ultraguard as a backup (into Xbus out - which is on the main power bus)

and powering

6 x Macgregor MG5921HV servos (Channels 1-6).

And this is in a 50cc wild hare Suhkoi.


So is this sensible or do I need a powerbus?... My maths / intuition / common sense says this will be fine........

Pretty over kill, but whatever makes you comfy.

You dont need a power bus for a 50cc plane with 6 servos.

Jimmy.....I agree with Barracuda no power box-bus etc. needed on this size. . I use one 2500 plus a ultraguard on my 83 MXS EF with a 55cc engine. I was going for low weight and you should also with the Wild Hare.
I do use two JR type plugs to the receiver. You may need a Y on one servo plug. You can buy switches with large wire from battery and two JR plugs out. Another way is to enable X bus and put 2 or more servos on a PC 2 or 4 converter extension. As you likely know JR components are a bit hard to find right now,
Richard

50cc planes definitely don't need a powerbus. 100% agreement with Andy (barracuda). Most Rx's nowadays are pretty solid to deliver the amps for 6 servos. The only thing I would recommend is to utilize two batteries with a batt share switch like a BoomaRC Batt SharePin Flag, Wallaby or Fromeco wolverine. My 50 cc planes I generally run 2 3600 2s LiPos. if you want to keep it light, you could get away with two 2500's for a handful of flights.

The good batt share switches do two things for you... Even though some will say it's overkill for a 50cc bird...
1) provide an isolation circuit if a battery cell decides to tank
2) allows you to find the bad cell in the battery when you plug into your battery checker after you safely land

Hope this helps. Happy flying.

I agree, and I have recently started using the Wolverine switch since I had a weird fault with the previous HD switches I was using.

There is something to be said about simple setups... I have seen way too many issues in these planes with too much technology in them like powerbox's, smartfly's, any thing with Jeti in the name, etc.... The only equipment, in regards to powering my planes, I will trust in my planes are Fromeco switches with the battery plugged in one side of the switch and at least 2 leads plugged into the receiver.

This simplistic setup spans across all sizes of planes

• Badger switch for <70cc
• Wolverine for >70cc

Agree with Mike. No need for two batteries he is using a Ultraguard auto backup. You need to add lightness to that Wild Hare. I owned several.
Richard

60cc plane, I used to use 2 2800maH LiIons but today would use 2 1100 LiFE or LiPo depending on ease of removing batteries and servo Voltage. That should get 4 flights before recharge. If you wanted to up the capacity a bit that is not bad, even 2100Mah LiFE are light.

I used a Powerbox on mine but if I had to do it again I would use either 2 receivers (and split the plane) or a single receiver. Either way there would be 2 JR plugs going into each rx to supply power.

Thanks very much for all your replies - sounds like I will be fine to do as I planned then. Im not using a switch - or wasnt planning on it. I was planning on simply plugging in and unplugging the EC3 from the battery for each flight, in the same way that I would on one of my nitro helis.

Originally Posted by rppoind

Agree with Mike. No need for two batteries he is using a Ultraguard auto backup. You need to add lightness to that Wild Hare. I owned several.
Richard

The previous owner had to add a 4 cell 'c' type NiMh pack just behind the engine bulkhead in order to get the CoG right.

Unfortunately I do not have the instructions but I have read (on a different post) that having the CoG just in front or on the wing tube is about right.

He was running normal voltage servos, and using a spektrum regulator off a lipo which was mounted just in front of the rudder servo.

Im hoping that if I move all the electronics as far forward as I can in the fuselage, and then move the Cdi unit and battery under the cowling a bit further forward I will not need to add balast to get the CoG right and can remove the 4cell NiMh