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Joined Feb 2020
29 Posts
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Hello everyone,
I'm about to start construction, together with my son. he loves the corsair. When I look at your pictures I'm not sure which version I have. On most engine mounts the hole spacing is only pierced. In my case they are all already drilled and fitted with drive-in nuts on the inside of the fuselage. I definitely have the version with 2 elevator servos, i.e. the V1, but there were probably differences. According to the instructions, my air tank for the retract goes on the left side next to the tank... On the subject of the retract. Since I've already read a lot about the pneumatic one and how it sometimes doesn't extend and when it does, it's probably very hard, I decided to order the electric one. I have already converted a normal retract to twist and turn, which also works wonderfully. With this kit, I think it makes sense to install the corresponding retracts. As for the engine, I'm not 100% sure yet. The choices on my workbench are DLE20, DLE35 and NGH Gf38. The dle2o is too weak for me and the two larger ones are almost too big in terms of design. The cutouts on the cowl then become very large. With the DLE35 the muffler issue comes into play. The stock muffler is definitely way too loud. Installing a external muffler insinde the fuselage is almost impossible due to space constraints. Building a selfmade muffler that fits under the cowl will also be difficult, due to the rear exhaust. I currently find the rcgf 26 to be very suitable. It combines the almost identical size of the DLE20 with almost the performance of the DLE30. It is also mounted with a classic motor mount and not with standoffs, whereby I could then use the existing holes/drive-in nuts and not have to change the motor dome. I'm also still undecided about whether I should use the ca-hinges or whether I should convert to classic or pin hinges. What are your experiences in the size class? What is also clear is that I will not be installing the included wheel well covers. On the one hand, I find them relatively unattractive and on the other hand, I will enlarge the wheel wells to fit larger wheels. I think the ones from the kit have a diameter of 75mm. I think without the fairings and the maximum section I can get a wheel diameter of 90-95mm. And another very important point. There has often been talk about broken wings in flight, in the spot right next to the landing gear mounts. I would definitely like to prevent this and open up the areas in this region before construction begins and strengthen the whole thing so that this can no longer happen. In this context, the chassis mounts are also being strengthened. Which, in my opinion, is considered standard for the ARF kit. Otherwise there will most likely be unpleasant surprises when landing and it is better to be prepared than to be annoyed later... Well, now I've written more than I wanted to... Regards, Dave |
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Dave, there is a lengthy thread on this airplane over at RCG "Fuel Warbirds" where some of your questions can be addressed. I had one with a DLE 35 and electric retracts. The engine is a good match for the plane and does not require anything more than cutting the bottom of the cowl. Mine met its demise when the wing failed.
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Joined Feb 2020
29 Posts
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Thanks @FGNewbie
How far did the dle35 stand out of the cowl. I've seen on pictures that it will be arround an inch!? |
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it might have been an inch. it didn't look bad. the strength in the wing comes come the sheeting rather than a spar. i think mine folded because i had a deadstick and when i did the repair it compromised the shear strength of the wing. it was god awful nose heavy but flew fine and I wasn't about to add weight to the tail. Good luck.
PS, the engine wound up in a Blackhorse 79" Spitfire, which is a great flying plane. |
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United States, CA, Lemoore
Joined Jul 2019
37 Posts
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There are others that posted on here, but the Valley View 30cc twin was a perfect fit for this plane. No cutting of the cowl and plenty of power.
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