Here's the latest little electric that I designed.

http://kalteisen.com/katana_350.html

Length: 32.75
Span: 35.5
RTF Weight: 14oz-15oz

Recomended Motor: Torque 30T/980
Optional motor list (Some may require enlarging the motor mount opening):
Torque 30T-980, 9x4.7SF-10x4.7SF
AXI 2212/26, 10x4.7SF
AXI 2208/34, 10x4.7SF
BM2410-08, 10x4.7SF
Hacker A20-30M, 10x4.7SF
Hacker A20-20L, 11x4.7SF
Himax 2812, 10x4.7SF
EFlight Park 370, 10x4.7SF

Battery: 900mah - 1300mah 3cell Lipo, depending on the motor choice.

I decided to utilize a pull-pull rudder system on this design to maximize the torque and power of the micro servo. Traditionally a simple pushrod would be used but the design lends itself easily to pull-pull, and it's simple enough to setup that I put it in. It gives this little plane a big plane feel. If you don't like pull-pull you can stil use a traditional pushrod on the rudder.

The airframe was designed around the Torque 30T/980 outrunner, but any outrunner of similar size will work. I'm sorry to say, though that at this time a gearbox setup like the Himax 2015 is not supported. A builder with some moderate skills should be able to modify the design to fit a gearbox, but with outrunner prices dropping I just don't see the need to do so.

I don't know if I'd classify this as a hybrid ( part full-fuse, part profile ) because the fuselage is wider than what a traditional hybrid's fuse would be. It is flat sided like a profile so you get all the benefits and features of a profile. Knife Edge flight is fantastic, just like a profile. Harriers are solid, upright or inverted. Hovering is easy, just like the Skeeter. Really, I'd say that if you've always wanted a profile for the way they fly, but you think profiles are ugly, then this is the plane for you. I've had a lot of people ask for a small electric that was not a profile.

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Fuse construction is based around the 2 1/16th sheet sides and the internal bulkheads. Lay the parts out, join the fore and aft fuse parts and them glue the bulkheads to one of the fuse sides.

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The top and bottom sheeting is then added, and then the plywood nose motor plate. Also, add some tri-stock on the corners of the ply motor plate mount for reinforcement.

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The hstab and rudder build is pretty simple. The LE and TE parts are machine cut and you just need to add in the sticks.

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The wing build is just like the Skeeter 30. The parts are all cut, just slide them together. When together, wick in thin CA in all the joints. The wing has a ply plate for the servo mount.

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Very nice! Needs more rudder. lol

Serious, why even have a vertical stab?

Here's all the parts during construction.

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I include ply control horns including a pull-pull setup for the rudder. I REALLY like this on this plane. I'm using nylon fishing line for the setup and it works very well. I used baking soda and thin CA to glue the horn onto the stock nylon servo horn.

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Originally Posted by Pro1Foam

Very nice! Needs more rudder. lol

Serious, why even have a vertical stab?

Thanks!

Why the V-Stab? For looks

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The wing spars slide into the box in the fuse and are glued with your glue of choice. I usually slide them in, make sure they are square and the wick in thin CA. Others have shot some polyglue in first, then slide the wing in and line it up and tack it with CA to hold until the polyglue sets up.

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The bottom is left open, but you can add a cross-stick and enclose it a bit more if you want.

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I have more info on my website:
http://kalteisen.com
No video yet. Most of my flying is during lunch, or early morning when I'm alone. Having 3 kids and coaching 2 little league baseball teams has a tendency to eat away almost all free weekend time!

Actually, designing and building has reached the point where it's as much fun to me as flying. I have my own CNC router now, and within minutes of drawing a part I can have it in my hand, ready to glue into place.

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Nice Job as always Q!

Thanks Tim.

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Looks like another winner from Quicker worksĦĦĦĦĦ
How do you compare the flight to the Phatboy???
Saludos.