Hey Devin, I didn't actually go to coolum, just went and had a fly at laidley for some final practice before Cootamundra. You could set it up with a single servo, but I belive it has some better characteristics with two.

kk, ill just buy another 1, ur so lucky, get like a week off school to go fly
sunday was empty as, only 3 of us there for some reason

lol! Yea, but then the day I get back I have four exams! Did you get much flying in?

yeah got a few but then........i had to play golf lol 4 exams in 1 day, sounds fun

Here is whats left of my plane. It was under 6oz.

Can you explain your no spar system. I'm getting ready to build another one. This time I'd like to be able to fly precision as well.
ideas
-get rid of the spar. There's a tube down the middle of that wing if you look closely
-decrease the size of the elevator and rudder. It was a bit excessive.
-add drag. Perhaps thick TE?
-possibly replace the push rods with pull pull thread
-eliminate LG and block

One big advantage I have now is foam safe accelerator. I built the last one with a lot of hot glue because the CA wouldn't cure.

FWIW, if you plan to fly any precision with your design (Edge 540's) your tail looks too short and you actually might not have enough stabilizer/elevator. It is a bit hard to tell in the pics, but thats my thought.

You might also like it better if you lower the aspect ratio of the wings....

finally, don't bother adding drag until you've gotten the weight down significantly....

Looks good Edge! I'll draw up a quick diagram of the rigging method, there's really nothing to it. I agree with Matchless, i think the easiest thing for you to do would be to move the wng forward on your design because it looks like you have a fairly long nose that will allow you to do it.

I'll try and explain the riggin method: First of all, you'll want 3 point on each half of the wing, two inboard points (at the LE and TE) and a tip point, in center of the wing chordwise, make this about 15-20% of the wingspan away from the tip. Then you tie those three points from each half to a common point at the top of the canopy (or the turtle deck whichever on its in line with) and on the bottom of the fuse. That completes the riggin for the wing, now to setup for a twist-less fuse, you take a line from your canopy common point, and attach it midway down the rear crucifictial fuse section, then take a line from there to the top of the rudder. Repeat for the other side, and the bottom.

Hope that helps a bit, i'll go off and do a diagram for you that may help a bit.

Heres some pictures that may help

Hey dude some advice. Your Euro pattern model looks pretty sweet! Your hardpoints dont need to be nearly that big mate! some snake inner tube is plenty. There are a couple more easy things you can do to get the weight right down:

>Use one aileron servo (cheaper too)
>Use the money you save on that servo to go towards a nice micro rx (6g)
>The part where the wing and the horisontal fuse meet is just compiled weight, remove the overlap and butt-join them.
>an APC SF is about 10g, whereas a GWS can be 4g. Thats a servo's worth of weight just in the prop that you use!

Hope this helps you.
Sarge.

Hey Sarge! Thanks for the advice! I've considered all those things before, but i've set this one up for outdoors, so the extra weight is quite benificial in the wind, hence the 2212/34 (it could fly really well on a 2208). When i first started using this Axi i used the GWS props but found they had ALOT of flex (you could see them twisting and flexing as you hovered in front of your face) and after they chewed through the horizontal fuse after a tumble i decided to make the switch to the APC's.

That push rod snake/hardner idea is brilliant, definately try that out on the next one (probly a bipe when i get the time).

Thanks again Sarge!

I prefer APCs as well. If you can find ones that have the hole drilled on center that is. For some reason a lot of the electric slow flyer ones are off enough to cause a ton of vibration. I though I had a motor with a bent shaft, but it was just the props (plural!). I bought a brand new motor because of this and it did the same thing. A new prop fixed the problem immediately for both motors. As soon as I took the time to actually inspect the prop, it was pretty obvious. The hole is out on 2/3 I own. 8x3.8

Wow, i'll have to check that on my props. Can't be good for the bearings in the motor.

Ok guys, i fianly have some plans for all of you, its in a .dwf/dwg format so you'll need a CAD program to open it. There's a couple of freewares kicking around that would be able to do it. But if it turns out to be know good, i'll try and put them into a .pdf file.

Feel free to make mods to the desing jus make sure you post pics!