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Old 12-18-2019, 10:17 AM
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I think the flap discussion is being overthought, something we R/C guys tend to do with everything.

moving on.....

I spoke with IFlyTailies about making a scale cockpit and the price is pretty much identical to the CARF option, which I'm told has been improved over previous versions, we shall see when I receive mine.

Here are some pictures of the gear install. I'm not sure why CARF added the additional plate, only to have you (no other choice) add an additional 3mm shim, but it works and the gear is solid.

I opted for a small CF plate on the front side and and put a sleeve inside the right side hole that holds the gear against the CF plate, it's a solid setup.

Still have to tweak a few settings, apply loctite, etc.

Gear Video -
CARF NA AT-6 Texan Gear Test (0 min 23 sec)
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Old 12-18-2019, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaketab View Post
Renegade - I'm making final adjustments on the flaps. Same set up as yours. Only difference is the lowest hole on my servo arm is 9/16." For future reference - I cut the 3 mm threaded rod to 70 mm or 2.75 inch. That will be a good starting length with a ball link and clevis added to each end.


Yes, to use the 3mm provided threaded rod, you will need to cut it some. I am using 4-40 Sullivan clevis, a titanium pro-link, and a dubro 4-40 ball link instead of the stock hardware, just my personal preference.
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Old 12-18-2019, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mokken View Post
I think the flap discussion is being overthought, something we R/C guys tend to do with everything.

moving on.....

I spoke with IFlyTailies about making a scale cockpit and the price is pretty much identical to the CARF option, which I'm told has been improved over previous versions, we shall see when I receive mine.

Here are some pictures of the gear install. I'm not sure why CARF added the additional plate, only to have you (no other choice) add an additional 3mm shim, but it works and the gear is solid.

I opted for a small CF plate on the front side and and put a sleeve inside the right side hole that holds the gear against the CF plate, it's a solid setup.

Still have to tweak a few settings, apply loctite, etc.

Gear Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-ji21xuRLg




All looks good. I don't know why you said this part above....I'm not sure why CARF added the additional plate, only to have you (no other choice) add an additional 3mm shim......can you elaborate a little more on that. I don't know what plate CARF added that you are referring to?
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:16 PM
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The block of wood they added for the gear, I added a 3mm piece of garolite to the top of that block to get the gear to mount properly, I believe someone else had to do the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegadeflyer View Post
All looks good. I don't know why you said this part above....I'm not sure why CARF added the additional plate, only to have you (no other choice) add an additional 3mm shim......can you elaborate a little more on that. I don't know what plate CARF added that you are referring to?
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Old 12-18-2019, 04:06 PM
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I like the idea of the carbon plate on the front side of the spar and the bushings/sleeves through the spar holes. The spar material is almost cardboard like and crushes too easy when the 5 mm bolts tighten into the gear unit to hold it flush with the carbon plate on the aft side.

I used 5 mm T-nuts with the threads drilled out and secured with Hysol.
The plywood blocks I added to shore up the gear flush with the carbon plate was (+/-) 4 mm in thickness.

Edit: The 4 mm spacing block (top) is additional to the space block on the bottom.
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Last edited by Jaketab; 12-18-2019 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 12-18-2019, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mokken View Post
The block of wood they added for the gear, I added a 3mm piece of garolite to the top of that block to get the gear to mount properly, I believe someone else had to do the same thing.

Mokken, I'm pretty sure that block is not glued to the spar on mine. I'll have to look at mine again. I believe you are just saying the block they had there on the spar wasn't thick enough, so you had to add the 3mm shim on top of the block.
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Old 12-19-2019, 10:14 AM
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Correct, you will have to add 3mm to the block for the gear to mount flush.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegadeflyer View Post
Mokken, I'm pretty sure that block is not glued to the spar on mine. I'll have to look at mine again. I believe you are just saying the block they had there on the spar wasn't thick enough, so you had to add the 3mm shim on top of the block.
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Old 12-19-2019, 10:16 AM
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I think they refer to it as foam in the manual, either way, it's not designed for a screw, wish they would have just put the same piece of carbon fiber on the other side, what I did will hold up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaketab View Post
I like the idea of the carbon plate on the front side of the spar and the bushings/sleeves through the spar holes. The spar material is almost cardboard like and crushes too easy when the 5 mm bolts tighten into the gear unit to hold it flush with the carbon plate on the aft side.

I used 5 mm T-nuts with the threads drilled out and secured with Hysol.
The plywood blocks I added to shore up the gear flush with the carbon plate was (+/-) 4 mm in thickness.

Edit: The 4 mm spacing block (top) is additional to the space block on the bottom.
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Old 12-19-2019, 12:45 PM
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Here is my cockpit so far. Frame is 5/16 dowel and seats, instruments and throttle are Iflytallies. Couple hundred bucks of instruments etc. and it is coming along nicely. I'm not going to go all out on detail as this will be a flyer and I will have a pilot in it. Mokken post some pictures of your cockpit when you get it so I can compare it with the one I got from them. Don
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:29 PM
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Flaps are done, the left side required some serious tuning, wish CARF would put a little extra Q/A into these things, "ready from the factory" not so much.

Don't be cheap on the servos, no matter what you do, you will have some amp draw when the flaps are retracted, no way around it, way too much going on with this setup.
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:30 PM
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This is the test of the left side after having to tune the linkage.

CARF AT-6 Texan Flap Test #1 (0 min 32 sec)
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:31 PM
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Video of the flaps hooked up, turned out good, after many hours tuning.

CARF AT-6 Texan Flap Test #2 (0 min 31 sec)
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Old 12-22-2019, 12:04 AM
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I agree, many hours of fine tuning. It works either way. I opted to have the servo arms to point straight back when flaps were up and retracted. Not worried about amp draw as long as it's not excessive. My flap servos are the Hitec D-950 with loads of torque. Powering the plane with (2) - 5800 mA Li Ion batteries. A separate 3600 mA powers the smoke, lights, and gear. The 4 battery a 2600 mA Li Ion powers the ignition and fuel pump.
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Old 12-22-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaketab View Post
I agree, many hours of fine tuning. It works either way. I opted to have the servo arms to point straight back when flaps were up and retracted. Not worried about amp draw as long as it's not excessive. My flap servos are the Hitec D-950 with loads of torque. Powering the plane with (2) - 5800 mA Li Ion batteries. A separate 3600 mA powers the smoke, lights, and gear. The 4 battery a 2600 mA Li Ion powers the ignition and fuel pump.
I'll be running 2-6200 Jeti Li-ion packs for RX, servos and smoke, 1-2600 Jeti Li-ion on the ignition, Spektrum Smart 2S 4000 for the lights and an 800mah 2s pack for the gear.

I'm curious, why are you running a pump on the Moki, I have many friends who have these and none of them are running a pump?
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Old 12-22-2019, 01:29 PM
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How does the vertical fin attach, don't tell me with the 4mm tube that attached the rudder? I see nothing in the manual regarding this or any other areas to mount, how does your VF mount?
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