Originally Posted by markbogus50

Thanks for sharing , I have always done schemes,with overlapping seams,so I don’t have any experience using that technique.I would imagine the application heat would have to be pretty low,to keep the edges from distorting.Do you have to take any special pre-cautions when out in the sun or on hot days ?
Mark

Mark,

When Kenny covers a plane his iron is always set at 170. He starts withe the base color and covers the entire plane in that color. Mine was obviously white. He then lays out the scheme and cuts all designs out by hand. Once this is done he applies the overlays which are butted without overlap using the "Windex method." Once the Windex dissipates he goes over everything with the iron once again set at 170. The reason for 170 being the temp is that it activates the adhesive but does not shrink the covering. I have never taken any precautions when at the field in the sun and heat and my plane has had almost zero wrinkles.

I have covered a couple planes using Kenny's methods and they work great.

JB

Originally Posted by JBenson

Mark,

When Kenny covers a plane his iron is always set at 170. He starts withe the base color and covers the entire plane in that color. Mine was obviously white. He then lays out the scheme and cuts all designs out by hand. Once this is done he applies the overlays which are butted without overlap using the "Windex method." Once the Windex dissipates he goes over everything with the iron once again set at 170. The reason for 170 being the temp is that it activates the adhesive but does not shrink the covering. I have never taken any precautions when at the field in the sun and heat and my plane has had almost zero wrinkles.

I have covered a couple planes using Kenny's methods and they work great.

JB

Thanks for the input,that explains a lot , I was thinking at first that the color divisions were actually seperate pieces,without a base color,in that case,I think the individual sections might distort,with heat.With the solid base color applied ,the second color layer would be much more stable.I have used similiar techniques,but prefer to aerate the base layer where a second layer is applied,that way I can still use full heat,(with a sock on ) ,even for repairs later if needed.
Mark

Originally Posted by JBenson

Just saw this comment Mark. Believe it or not it works really well when done carefully. Kenny Lauter does nothing but butt joints and they keep extremely well. Just need to be mindful with the heat when working with them. Here is a pick of my Dalton that is 7 years old and has about 1500 flights on it. The butt joints have held up incredibly well.

is that one picture in Fresno?

Originally Posted by Mithrandir

is that one picture in Fresno?

Yes sir. That was the World's qualifier in 2014.


JB

Originally Posted by grabs39

We used my laser level to get our reference point and to make sure the fuselage was level. Once the fuselage is at zero and level we placed this wing incidence template that Jim D made to get us in the ballpark at +.5 degree on the wings. We used a long 1/4" drill bit to drill into the stud mounts in the wings. This was done like this to drill into the oak stud mounts at a 4 degree angle. We then drill tapped the block with a 1/4-20 tap. Later the studs with be glued into the 1/2" thick oak blocks. The template ended up dead nuts perfect for locating where the 3/8" wing stud holes needed to be. We then placed each wing on and check, double checked and triple checked that everything was right before any of the mounting blocks or ply plates were glued in. We actually check the incidence upside down and right side up and it was still perfect at +.5 degree. As you can see I'm pretty anal about this and use a few different levels and incidence meters to make sure things are accurate. Once we were comfortable where the wings were at then we glued the plywood blocks and plywood plates in with West Systems epoxy. The studs were coated with Vaseline to prevent the wings being permanently glued on. After this was done the incidence was checked one final time. This took us the good part of the day. Seacraft wing bolts will be used to hold the wings on.

Where did you get those anti-rotation wing retainers?

what is the thickness of the motor firewall? 3/8"

Sounds about right Cam.

Hello guys! I had an incident with my Carden`s Pro canopy, just ordered a new one, what the best glue, does Formula 560 will work?

I have always thought the 560 was too thin. I have used Goop but it's a mess to deal with, I used hysol to glue the canopy on my last few KA and Carden build projects to glue the canopy on, it stays put without running.

Originally Posted by Hammerman

I have always thought the 560 was too thin. I have used Goop but it's a mess to deal with, I used hysol to glue the canopy on my last few KA and Carden build projects to glue the canopy on, it stays put without running.

Thank you, I friend of mine is using cold silicone (the same one that is used for windows) with excellent results, have you try it?

Originally Posted by Memo Lomeli

Thank you, I friend of mine is using cold silicone (the same one that is used for windows) with excellent results, have you try it?

No I have not tried that. Hysol has been working really well for me.
Thanks,
Dave

Originally Posted by Hammerman

No I have not tried that. Hysol has been working really well for me.
Thanks,
Dave

I used Hysol or BVM aeropoxy on yours Memo.

Hello,

Update!! I got the new canopy for my Carden Pro and used Formula 560 to glue it by Tony Russo´s advice, it seems good to me, also I made the tunnel for the canisters, thanks for the tips!

It looks great Memo! I’m glad you got it going again. Good luck in IMAC. Keep me posted.
John