Originally Posted by epoweredrc

so i had to google what a metering needle was, so its the big gold looking screw... so can it be taken out? and cleaned and put back? i wasnt sure if it was set to a certain amount of turns or what it was or did


Ive not touched the needles. was told to leave them alone that it ran right where there set at.

He solved my carb problem a few years ago on my 106. Walked me through disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. I'm still appreciative of the help.

Originally Posted by dhal22

He solved my carb problem a few years ago on my 106. Walked me through disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. I'm still appreciative of the help.

Oh, well, if i can stop it from flooding maybe it would run.. At first no fuel cause well the intake for the fuel lne was clogged so was the connection for the airbox thing, it was really clogged, i noticed when i went to remove the old line that the line was off from the carb so guess dirt or whatever got in there and clogged it up over the years.

Originally Posted by epoweredrc

so i had to google what a metering needle was, so its the big gold looking screw... so can it be taken out? and cleaned and put back? i wasnt sure if it was set to a certain amount of turns or what it was or did


Ive not touched the needles. was told to leave them alone that it ran right where there set at.

The metering needle is what allows the fuel to be pumped into the venturi. The pumper should have a forked piece on the backside. This is all under the front carb cover. If you look at it, as you pull the carb off of the engine, off to the left, there is a small spring and lever assembly. Under the other side is the metering needle. There is another fork on the lever and the receiver is on the metering needle. That all should be interlocked, joined, slid together. Then, I dont recall if the Walbro carbs have the receiver on the backside of the pumper so it can hook into the lever. I know the Tillotson carbs have them, which Im familiar with.

If you was told to leave them alone, dont touch the needles on the carb. But I would suspect that there might be a little gummy mess somewhere in one of those passages. Air in a can (computer keyboard air, it is such a thing) or compressed air works great. Brake cleaner does work, but will dry out all your seals and all rubber parts in the carbs. I have been successful with both methods.

My guess is, that if fuel is pouring out of the bottom of the carb, something has become dislodged somewhere from inside the carband found its way to the metering needle, and is sitting between the needle and seat.

The brass screw you speak of, dont do anything with that. Or atleast you shouldnt have to. I never have had to mess with that in 20 years of monkeying around with 2 stroke engines.

Originally Posted by epoweredrc

Oh, well, if i can stop it from flooding maybe it would run.. At first no fuel cause well the intake for the fuel lne was clogged so was the connection for the airbox thing, it was really clogged, i noticed when i went to remove the old line that the line was off from the carb so guess dirt or whatever got in there and clogged it up over the years.

First, I don't know what carb your 3W has on it but to answer your question I have attached (2) photos from a Walbro WJ-71 that is a carb that is commonly used on many 85 - 120 sized engines. Your 3W may have a Tillotson carb that is very similar. One photo shows the metering diaphragm and looking in the center you will see a metal projection with a notch in it. In the other photo, you will see the metering fork (a spring loaded arm that actuates the metering needle). It looks like a two pronged fork so you can't miss it. When assembling the two components, the fork has to slide in the notch. If the metal part just rides on top of the fork, the metering needle will be held open an the carb will flood constantly. Not sure if the Tillotson uses the same system or not and many carbs do not have the fork. They still have the metering arm but it lacks the fork and the metering diaphragm just rids on the arm. Hope this helps.

Note also, the carb has two diaphragms. The pump diaphragm and the metering diaphragm. Both are under different cover plates on opposite sides of the carb. The diaphragms have completely different appearances. Another common problem is the orientation between the diaphragms and the gaskets. On the metering side of the carb, the gasket goes next to the main carb body and the diaphragm goes between the gasket and the cover plate. On the pump side, the order is reversed with the diaphragm next to the carb body. In some carbs, if the order is incorrect on the metering side, the carb will flood.

Thanks guys it does have the Tillotson carb on it. I will take a look and see how it all looks.

Hey all,

Just a comparisoin question, I have the 3w106, and a new dle120., will the 106 have as much grunt as the 120? ie will swing sam prop at same rpm, I understand the 3w will have a little more down low torque.

Looking at running the 106 on Dle111-120 rear exit cans, I could image much restriction. & Ks headers.

No. More CC, more power. More ability to turn a larger prop easier.

Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle

No. More CC, more power. More ability to turn a larger prop easier.

Thank you, What a low slow 3d prop that would work well?, Ie the dle120 loves the 29x9 what is the equiv for 3W-106

talked with a guy today who has both and he said the 3w 106 is more powerful motor.

he also said if my diaphragm is stiff at all to get a new one, think that will fix my flooding issue.

Anyone know where to just get one easy?

I like to just order off line and pay, i already had write a check for a LED light to gerhard.

witch I thought was going to be plug in and work then get it to find out its just the LED itself. so i had to find a end to make up what i needed.

Probuild in the uk i think might make it easier for ordering.

https://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/index....23_571_217_818

Originally Posted by The Hodge

Thank you, What a low slow 3d prop that would work well?, Ie the dle120 loves the 29x9 what is the equiv for 3W-106

I like the 27x10. You could try the Falcon 28x9 or 9W. I ha e the 28x9W on my RCGF 120. It is crazy responsive down low.

Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle

I like the 27x10. You could try the Falcon 28x9 or 9W. I ha e the 28x9W on my RCGF 120. It is crazy responsive down low.

Ahh thank you for that, I will check that out,

New carb has it running now.

Airwild 35% with 3W 106 runs first time. (1 min 2 sec)

Originally Posted by epoweredrc

New carb has it

Sounds like a strong 106 :-)

Originally Posted by thurmma

Sounds like a strong 106 :-)

Feel like it wants to pull.. I could feel it against my legs.