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Old 07-24-2018, 06:47 AM
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Atchfoot, spend some time tuning the engine. Unlike others, I'm using a Mejlik 24x10 TH and it turns 6600 static on the ground. We are at 600 feet ASL here, there's no slowness in coming out of a hover.

I use the heavier pitch prop along with the 3W L80 Canister to keep things really quiet. I'm sure if I put a 24x9 Falcon on it, performance will increase.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:25 PM
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Spent all afternoon tuning the carb screws with no change in the running rpm numbers. Was turning a 24x8 Xoar @ 6800rpm and an audible intermittent "sputtering" of the engine when at full throttle in the air. I found timing sensor bracket was loose and the timing was set at about 50 degrees BTDC. I reset the bracket to 28 deg, tightened the screws and will test again tomorrow.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:59 AM
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I have an RCGF 60 that is on my Westland Lysander. Stock everything on the engine and the engine seems to run well but does exhibit a lot of oil residue splatter on the airframe. I'm wondering if I'm using the wrong oil in my fuel. I use Stihl Ultra at 40:1. I have several other engines that I use the same fuel in and there is not the splatter at all. DLE, DA, Zenoah all run clean. What oil are you guys using in your RCGF engines and do you get the splatter residue? Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:16 AM
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Hi Todd,

How old is the engine? I use Redline 32:1 ratio on all my engines, RCGF120, RCGF70, EME120, CRRC55 etc. etc. They all had gunk until the rings seated and got broken in.

Now there is minimal residue.
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT View Post
Hi Todd,

How old is the engine? I use Redline 32:1 ratio on all my engines, RCGF120, RCGF70, EME120, CRRC55 etc. etc. They all had gunk until the rings seated and got broken in.

Now there is minimal residue.
Probably about 2 gallons through it, maybe a little more. I've used Stihl Ultra for a lot of break-ins, DA, DLE, Zenaoh, etc. but never this much residue with those. Wondering if I should switch this engine a conventional oil like lawn boy until the rings seat? Just don't want to set up a second gas can if I can avoid it but it may be worth it. I'm going to pull the cowl and take a look at the plugs tonight, I'm concerned they may be black fowled. Engine started and ran last night but was missing a little at low RPM's after landing but the flight was fine.
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:23 PM
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2 gallons is not much at all, specially if you're using a synthetic. Hang in there, it'll get better as time goes by, just fly and fly. If you're mixture is correct, your plugs won't get fouled. Of course I'm assuming you're using CM-6 NGK plugs.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:55 AM
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I picked up one of these engines from RCGF in AZ.
Put it on the test stand and ran about 2 1/2 gallons of gas and 32:1 non synthetic oil through it to run it in some before putting it in the new 91" EF Extra 300 I'm assembling now.


I have 24/8 and 24/9 Falcon carbon props that I'm running.
I'm getting around 6930 rpm on the 24/8 and around 6630 rpm on the 24/9 so far.
The engine runs fantastic, and transitions very well.
I pulled it apart before running it and found it no issues that others have mentioned in previous posts.
Everything was well lubed, and the reeds and the block were in good shape and seated properly.
I did replace the cheap stock plugs with NGK CM6 before running the engine.
I didn't check the timing yet but the sensor is exactly on top of the engine housing on the molded casting line.

I was surprised to see that the engine I received had what looks like the EME or DLE mufflers with the slanted fronts for cowl clearance.
I did notice the engine is really starting to run stronger and smoother after the first gallon and a half through it.
The rpm's still seem a little on the low side but hopefully with some more fuel through it and maybe a timing check they will come up some.


I am very happy with the transitioning. I can let it idle around 1150 to 1200 rpm for quite some time, hit the throttle as fast as I can pull the trigger and it takes off with no stumbling.



My temps were never over 280 degree's or so that I can remember.

Both cylinders ran pretty close to each other temp wise with the right one (If I can remember right) running maybe 10 to 20 degrees hotter.



I used a straight 2s lipo for the ignition.



I have it mounted in the 91" Extra and the mufflers just barely clear the cowl through the bottom. Should be fine.
I will baffle it and also open up the tunnel and cut an exit hole in the bottom of the cowl for cooling.


So far I'm very happy with the engine and I'm sure my neighbors and wife are happy I'm finally done running it for hours in front of my shop.



Anyway, so far, for the price I'm a very happy camper. Can't wait to get the plane in the air and go to a better synthetic oil like Redline or Stihl.
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Old 12-26-2018, 06:18 PM
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I have this engine (from V/V) in a pilot 92in. 330. It has maybe close to a gallon thru it, just had it's maiden Monday. Very happy with how it runs now that it is starting to break in, solid idle and transition...I have not peaked the Hi side yet as I want to get another gal. thru it.

I did have one issue with it and that was a loose hall sensor from the factory. Did not know it until it bit back on me one time...tracked it down to the sensor being loose, reset the timing, tightened the sensor and all is well again. Just another life lesson, from now on, I will check the hall sensor on every engine I purchase.

Ed
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Old 08-18-2019, 02:53 AM
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Terryscustom,

You wrote:

You don't want max RPM ever on the ground. It will gain several hundred in the air so you need a little tune left to give the engine gas for those last few hundred RPM.

Fly the plane around a bit and land, switch to low idle and run the engine to full throttle for about 5-8 seconds and then quickly chop the throttle (not slow, instant). If it stays high and settles down you are lean / hot. If it bogs down and comes back up your fat, if it dies it could be either so you have to start over.

Typically tune the low first though since that tunes the lower 3/4's of throttle and also effects the H. Again with engine hot after some full throttle run ups let it idle at low idle for 8-10 seconds. Slam the throttle to full, not slow. If it dies it's lean. If it stumbles its rich. If it gurgles just slightly and goes to full your about right for a new engine, fine tune it after a couple gallons.

Again, just trying to help. I may be interested in trying one of these so making sure your's is healthy not just looking for that top number that really makes little difference.

You always mean the L -Needle? Itīs my first gasser, idle is perfect after just 20 minutes of running time....and transition is perfect.... after full throttle it settles down very nice and stable....
But how do I adjust the H needle?

Full throttle and than tuning to the left until the rpm drops down a few hundert RPM?

How’s do I know when I run to lean at full throttle?

Thanks in advance

Andy
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Old 11-15-2019, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denney47 View Post
This engine is great for scale or 3D but 22 and 23" props are too small for this engine. Please use a 24 X 8 or 24 X 9 and keep the top end RPM's in the mid 6000 static.
Thank you
Tom
Valley View RC

Any header/canister combos available to fit?
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Old 11-16-2019, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DKSnyder1 View Post
Any header/canister combos available to fit?
Yes, JMB makes Y headers for this engine. He took measurements from mine and now has it available. It's reasonably priced too.

It's not on his website, but if you email him and ask him for the RCGF70 Y header he can quote you on it. He can also match the correct canister.

https://www.jmb-brecka.cz/en/

Here's a photo of the header being test fitted on the Skywing 91" ars 300:

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Last edited by JoeT; 11-16-2019 at 01:17 AM.
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