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Old 03-01-2008, 11:13 AM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

[quote=50%plane;402619]Sweet! Going to fly it today?[/quote]

Sunday ole Boy,Sunday! Tons to do today, and besides, the wind is bending the pine trees over right now! lol Today we'll be in the shop airplane'n!
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:40 AM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Now it's time for the motor mount and motor install. Nothing much to do here, as EF has already installed the blind nuts in the firewall! The supplied nylon mount fits perfectly, and really speeds up the motor install. Take note to the supplied mounting bolts provided. You'll want to use the shorter ones. And be sure to "LockTite" them.
Pic #1 shows the mount installed.

Pic #2 shows the two most popular power plants used on the Outlaws. Left, is the popular Webra .32, and right is the well known OS .32. Both are excellent power plants and well suited for this plane. You'll notice the biggest difference in them is the head height. Another difference, but not visible in the photo, is the Webra has a slightly wider crank case.

Pic #3 As with all my Outlaws, I'm using the Webra engine. This required me to do a little work on the nylon mount, but only took a couple of minutes. Because of the wider crank case, I needed to bevel the beam mounts slightly to allow the little Webra to seat fully.

Pic #4 As per instruction manual, I used wood screws to mount the engine to the mount.
Pic #5 Notice anything different about the carb? It has been reversed, and the needle is now on the right side of the engine. Top in this case. One of the advantages of using the Webra is you can reverse the carb like this. The fuel inlet and needle assembly is made from brass, and is pressed in. Being careful, you can press the unit out, rotate it about 160 degrees, and carefully press it back in. You'll need a special tool (home made of course) to do this, but it's really easy. I made my tool from a 10 mm socket. If you guys want, I'll do a post on this later,,,,,,,
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:03 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Ok, let's talk control surface linkage. Earlier I posted a couple of pictures dealing with the rudder servo. In the manual, the rudder servo is shown with the arm pointed outward toward the wing tip, (Pic #1), and the rudder control horn clevis is located all the way out. ( pic#2) You'll want to vary from this arrangement, as it will create real problems in the operation of the elevons / rudder, and greatly reduce the amount of throw you can have. You DO want massive throw's dont ya? You know,,,"Kentucky Pile drivers, InDoe's, and my favorite, the "WAD" !
As you can see in the pic, if the elevons are deflected with any large amount, they'll come in contact with the rudder control horn or control rod. Not Good!
This is a simple fix, and requires no modification at all. Simply run the servo arm inward, across the bottom fin. Then, adjust your clevis pivot to hinge pivot line so that it matches the length of the servo arm. That being, the distance from the servo screw hole, to the push rod attachment point where your ball joint is located. This same method is used later for the elevons.

Pic #3 shows the arrangement I'm using, and it gives me all the throw I'll need.
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:44 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Now its time for us to roll,and witout Elevons, we ain't roll'n! So here we go.

Pic #1 shows the pre-built elevon mounts. These things are awesome, and very well built. Before mounting the servo's, I gave both mount assembly's a quick shot of medium CA on all joints. The mounts are all laser cut, and keyed together for a perfect fit. I only added a little CA for insurance.

Pic #1 The mount as you get it, and one servo mounted.

Pic #2 Both servo's mounted, and being set up. This is the time to set up your servo and arm arrangement. Be sure to center your arms 90 degrees to the servo case. This will help prevent any differential throw later. If using a computer radio, you'll be able to fine tune this electronically. If youre not using a comp. radio, get them as close as possible. You may want to try several different arms if you have them. Servo arms actually have different cuts, and sometimes offer different angles at center.

Pic #3 Originally, I was going with the Du-Bro HD plastic arms that I've always used on Outlaws, but I was really feel'n the love by this point! So i chose to go with the purty anodized metal arms!
Here, Im getting the measurement point on the servo arm. This is the measurement I'll need when I install the control arms later. As you can see, it's exactly 1" from servo arm screw hole, to the ball joint attachment point.

Pic #4 After determining the location of the control horn per instruction manual, I'm now adjusting the clevis height. It's is very important that you match the two elevones this way. If not, you could end up with unwanted differential throw. Not what you want in an Outlaw when youre doing 125 mph pull outs , or square loops right on the deck! This is easily done, and noted in the instruction manual. Here you can see the arm in place, and I'm getting a measurement from the HINGE LINE, to the center of the Clevis. ( I know, I dont have the horn mounted!)
Afterwards, all of the excess rod material will be trimmed off from the elevon and rudder horns. Be careful not to get these too hot. I usually trim material off around the rod, then snap it off with a pair of pliers. You can use a metal file to clean it up.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:01 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Next, it was time to install the radio and components. Of course, to power all of these servo's and hardware, we're gonna need some JUICE! In the past, i've used nmhd in the 700 ma range, and chose to go with a 5 cell pack to get the most torque from my servo's. Horizon Hobby sells a nice little pack under the "Expert" line of products for about $30. It's 5 cell, 720 ma, and made up of "AAA" size batteries. It fits really well in this airframe, and doesnt add a lot of weight. Seeing how I didnt want to dismantle any of my other Outlaws (thats a SIN in this state!), and I didnt have time to order one, ( I wanna fly NOW!), me and a flying buddy (Coors2you) headed over to "Batteries Plus" . After a quick description of our needs, we had 4 "AAA", 5 cell, 850 ma packs being built. If you go this route, just remember to supply them a battery lead to fit your radio switch.

Pic #1 Shows the cute little rascal !

Pic #2 All wrapped in foam and ready for it's new home. Notice the double sided servo tape on bottom. This will prevent it from moving during those violent maneuvers yet to come!

Pic #3 Battery installed

Oh, by the way,,,,,,,,, We had four of them made up, at a cost of $13 each!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:08 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

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Originally Posted by Larry Lewis View Post
The night started out for Robert with a little prep work. As with any ARF, you'll want to do a little ironing, and make sure all the covering is tight, and ironed down well to all the wood surfaces. In pic #1, Robert has the heat gun fired up, and taking out any wrinkles that might be present. Actually, there were none, but he has this,,,,well,,,,system of doing things! He spends the first two night of ANY build ironing! I think it's some kind of domestic fetish, but we wont go there!!!!

Pic #2, he's do'n some purty work with the iron. It's a shame his wife doesnt know this talents with ironing!
What I have found is that even the highest quality ARF's like the Extreme Flight Outlaw can have some loose areas in the covering due to humidity changes that occur during the long trip between the factory and your workshop. So to reduce the chance of having wrinkles show later, you need to stick down every square inch of covering to the wood underneath. A little effort now pays big dividends later when your Outlaw (particularly a dark blue one) sits out in the sun at the field. Trust me I DON'T like ironing at all, but force myself to do it.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:28 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Pic #1 Radio set up is pretty typical. As you can see in this pic, I've located the battery as far back as I can. This really helps you acheive CG in the prefered location.
Theres not much to do here ,except mount your throttle servo, switch and receiver. I chose to mount my T'Servo on the floor vs. using the supplied servo mount. This is the way I've always done it, and allowes me to put the battery in back. I applied a layer of thin CA to the wood, let it dry, and servo taped the servo to the floor.
The method described in the manual, mounting it to the rib, works fine. Also, you could still use the supplied servo mounting plate, and re-locate the servo further forward on the root rib as mentioned. This would allow you to place the battery in back as well. It's all a matter of choice.
I chose to use a 2.4 mh receiver in my Outlaw, but any 72 mhz receiver will work great. I fact, EF has already installed an antenna tube in the wing! This can be seen in in pic #2 through the fuel tank hole. The tube is located in the right wing rib. ( left side of hole in this veiw )
I simply servo taped the rec. to the back of the tank! I then ran my satelite rec, in the rear section of the radio compartment. The upper hatch comes pre-cut to accept most small switch assemblies, and I just added a charge jack plug to it. As you can see, the new larger radio compartment offers plenty of room for a clean installation.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:38 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

VINYL DECAL APPLICATION

Since I knew it would be much harder to apply the decals after much of the building was complete, I chose to do it after getting all the covering tightened up and stuck down.

When you get your Outlaw, you will notice some nice vinyl lettering is included with each scheme. Of course, the "Blue Angel" scheme that I'm working on has the characterisitc Navy logos for each wing panel. It's scary to think that you have to somehow get that transferred to the wings without wrinkles and with the proper alignment. But it's actually not that hard to do with a method I use.

First, you need to strip off only the colored vinyl that surrounds the actual logo you wish to apply from the backing paper to leave only the desired logo in place. This is often done for you by most vinyl cutting operations but you need to do it here. Then you need to be able to pick up the entire logo in one piece and transfer it to the wing. Chris provides a piece of shelf paper for this purpose (seen as the frosted layer over the logo in the pic). Just peel off the backing, lay it over the logo (still on its own backing paper) and smooth it out with your hands.

Next, take some Windex (or similar window cleaning solution) and clean the area of the wing where you are going to put the logo (to remove dust and debris). After that, spray a liberal amount of the cleaner in that area again and spread it around evenly with your fingers. This will be a "puddle" of liquid into which we will lay the logo. Peel the shelf paper from the vinyl logo backing paper thereby lifting the entire logo with it. Position this over the wing and float it into the proper position in the Windex. Make adjustments as neccessary. Once you're comfortable with the placement, hold it in place with one hand and wipe across it to push out the Windex and air with a paper towel in the other hand. Do this in all directions while taking care not to upset the positioning.

I then use a piece of 1/16" balsa as a squeege to keep pushing air bubbles (seen in photo) and Windex outward while wiping it up with a paper towel. After doing this for several minutes, you will find that little liquid is left. At this point LEAVE IT ALONE for several hours to let the rest evaporate and to let the decal adhesive stick well to the wing. After this time has passed, you can carefully peel the shelf paper off to reveal your perfectly applied vinyl logo!

FYI- you will have to re-use the shelf paper for the other wing logo since there's only one piece so try to keep it intact when you peel it off. As an alternative, you can buy low tack shelf paper at many stores or I have seen someone even use "Glad Press-n-Seal" packaging material (I think that's the name) from the grocery store in a post here somewhere. The methods will be the same with either.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:44 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Guess what folks,,,,,,,it's time to rumble!!!!!!

Robert and I will be in the shop today, and we'll get a few more detail shots of the Outlaws and the set ups we're going with. I'll also include pics of the finished control rods etc. And yes, well be doing the much awaited "Mousse Can Muffler" build!!!!
Until then, here's a few pics of my finished model.

THANK YOU CHRIS, and Extreme Flight RC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For bringing this awesome plane to the market in an ARF form. You really hit a home run with this one buddy.

And a bigs thanks to the "King of Outlaws" himself, Mr. Jerry L. Smith.
Awesome pilot, great friend, and designer of this incredible flying machine. Jerry has contributed so much to this hobby in high performance aircraft designs,and his flying ability is matched by none. You Izzzzz "Da Man" ole buddy!
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:46 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Lewis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50%plane View Post
Sweet! Going to fly it today?


Sunday ole Boy,Sunday! Tons to do today, and besides, the wind is bending the pine trees over right now! lol Today we'll be in the shop airplane'n!
Yeah 50, come on up to RDRC and join us tomorrow! And bring your trusty camera.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:55 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Ohhhhhhhhhh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I almost forgot! You guys want to build a "Mousse Can Muffler" eh? Nooooooo Prob Lem "O" ! I'll be building one in the shop today for a buddy of mine, and I'll just bring you guys along with me.
So, while you have a few minutes on your hands, you'll need to gather up a few items.
1. Header
2. Pack of "J B weld" ( Do not use JB Kwick 5 Minute. We have found it does not bond nearly as well)
3. Piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing ( KS tubing rack at LHS )
4. The aluminum can of your choice. I prefer to use the "Ronson" brand 2.75 oz. butane refill can. It's the perfect diameter and length to fit this plane. You can find these at most home improvement centers. Lowes, Home Depot,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:28 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Great thread, guys!
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:01 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

JB weld,, I have some of that,, hhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmm
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:13 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

Brandon Stussie came into the shop today and offered his telephones photography services. Look at what's attached to the nose. I'm comin' for you guys tomorrow! See ya' at the field!
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:28 PM
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Re: Detailed "Triple Build" from Team Outlaw!

I have asked about using a larger motor in several oulaw forums and have gotten a resounding "no" from everyone. I understand it is not ideal and will not produce the best outlaw out there but I would like to try and make it work as well as I possibly can. The motor is a YS 45 on a hatori header and macs pipe. If anyone has any suggestions about how to get this thing to balance without adding any weight I would really appreciate it. i don't mind having to do modifications to the airframe or putting some time into it. Thanks for anyone who can offer any help.
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