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Old 12-10-2019, 12:08 PM
Rusty 73 is offline
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Tom


I think it would help to conform the edges around the belly and turtle deck to ensure the edges get full contact on the foam that have a quick radius . ACP said you can use them numerous times unlike the standard hard plastic bag which are good for so many of times .
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Old Yesterday, 01:18 PM
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Yesterday Ron sanded flush all of the balsa sheeting overhang from all of our foam parts. Today we started out by weighing each wing panel, the left one is 998 and the right is 990. To make up this slight 8 gram difference, we also, as always, weigh the leading and trailing edge material as well and then assign them both to make up the difference. So now we have all of the 3/8" leading and edges attached to all of the flying surfaces with Titebond I and both wings and stabs are now at the same weight. Tomorrow we will plane and sand them to shape.

We also worked a little on a early prototype of a 3D printed radio tray for our carbon fiber adjustable rail mounting system. This early prototype Ron made up is more or less a proof of concept to see what works and doesn't. So it was printed at a higher speed, thus less fine detail finish. As it stands now, it weights almost half the weight of a similar part made of ply. When we find out for sure the exact batteries and receiver used, more lighting holes can be designed in as well. Part of the design will also incorporate the mounting straps for the carbon fiber rail tubes as well.

Tom
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Old Yesterday, 05:56 PM
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Tom, I am really digging that radio tray. I buy carbon sheets and cut them to the size I need for my big planes. This concept piece looks much better and I'll be happy to buy one of the final products should you decided to start selling them to the public.

Brian
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Old Today, 02:34 PM
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Brian, I'll let Ron answer your question about making this tray and other items and tools he has come up with.

We started out the day by shaping the leading and trailing edges of all of the flying surfaces. As always the process is started off with our trusty Master Airscrew Balsa planners and final sanding them to shape.

Next we fitted the stabs up to the fuse with their plywood root rib caps tapped in place to check how they fitted up to the fuse. Good news, both sides fitted flush. So after making a servo exit hole in the caps, we glued them in place with Titebond II.

Next we cut out 1/4" balsa for the wing root caps. After making them to shape, we drilled 19/64" clearance holes for the 1/4" wing bolts in the balsa root ribs. We then using Zpoxy secured the 1/4" x 1" x 1" ply hard points with the 1/4 x 20 blind nuts in position over the holes on the inside of each root rib.

After the hard points cured, we placed each marked root rib on its assigned wing and with a little pressing made a mark in the foam wing root to locate where we needed to remove foam in order for the root rib with hard points to glue flush with the wings. Once each was marked we used another hot wire tool and a template and removed the foam. The wing root caps were then glued in place with Titebond II.

Tom
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