Originally Posted by Luchnia

You must have some crappy roads, or crappy tailwheel setups. We have some rough roads here in Virginia, but maybe not as bad as you have. I have never broken a tailwheel in my trailer on any of my planes.

I anchor my tailwheels with a small piece of foam and then bungy cords to hold the tail area down secure. This never really allows the rear of the plane to come up except maybe on really bad bumps, yet maybe not enough to damage anything. I am not sure why but it simply works well.

Ditto. Up to 40%, just a bungee on the tail so it stays in contact with the floor. single axle trailer, literally thousands of miles... never broke a single tailwheel. Maybe I'm lucky? I dunno.

Originally Posted by Desertrat

Ditto. Up to 40%, just a bungee on the tail so it stays in contact with the floor. single axle trailer, literally thousands of miles... never broke a single tailwheel. Maybe I'm lucky? I dunno.

or your stuff is high quality and well built and well put together.

wink and a smile.....

Originally Posted by orthobird

or your stuff is high quality and well built and well put together.

wink and a smile.....

I honestly don’t know. If I hadn’t had my experience, id for sure heed your warning. It’s not difficult to add a little foam.

Originally Posted by Truckracer

I’ve always said that every trailer owner should take a short ride in his loaded trailer while somebody drives it down a bumpy road. You’d be amazed how things move around in there. Add to that, you only arrive at your destination once with your airplane all askew and you may rethink the way you retain it.

When I put my 6X14 V nose trailer with leaf springs together I had my wife drive me around town on some bumpy roads to see how it handled. I could not believe how smooth it soaked up the bumps in the roads. And Ohio/Michigan has some bad roads. In fact I leave stuff on the work bench during transport and they don't move. If you hit a pothole large enough or swerve hard enough it can move stuff around but that in most cases can be avoided. I also don't air up the tires to max capacity. That is for max load. We don't max out our tires or suspension so it is not needed. Most tire manufacturers list tire pressure recommendations based on actual load. It helps with ride and tire wear.

Originally Posted by orthobird

With all due respect.

please do not be offended by what I will post on here regarding your beautiful airplane and trailer.

In my experience, the most damage to our model airplanes comes from storing it, transporting them, moving them in and out of trailers or homes.

Less damage occurs from flying them.

Your tail wheel, how you have it installed, the stress on the spring and the underlying wood will be much greater than any landing you do.

When you transport this beautiful airplane, every bump will be transmitted to this spring on the tail wheel.

If you email me, I can tell you what I do to prevent this.

Actually, I used to do this, til one time, I travelled 400 miles for a contest, opened the trailer, and was shocked to see my tail spring was cracked!!

This is what I use for my tailwheels. Years of travel in Ohio and Michigan with our crap roads and not a single issues.

You must have some crappy roads, or crappy tailwheel setups. We have some rough roads here in Virginia, but maybe not as bad as you have. I have never broken a tailwheel in my trailer on any of my planes.
Must be.LOL
Most of the fields I travel to are an hour away, but like I said, Just the 50cc and smaller had the problems.The 100cc birds have actual lumber and t nuts holding the tailgear on.

Quick question 13.5k or 15k roof top ac unit? I have a 14x8 v-nose enclosed and i've insulated with 1-inch foam from homedepot. the local rv store said go with a 15k, but im thinking thats more of an upsale on their part. i gotta believe 13.5 non-ducted will be more than sufficient for approximately 100 sq ft. i do plan on installing the clear strips from ceiling to the floor to keep some of the cool air in when the rear ramp is open. oh yeah im in phoenix so it gets ridiculously hot in the summer.

I run 5k in my 6x12 cold in Texas summers well insulated

I have a 6x10 vnose Wells cargo. I am 1.5 miles from field with lunch about 5 to 6 miles. 205-75-15 20 psi no sidewall say or bulge smooth ride

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dan

I run 5k in my 6x12 cold in Texas summers well insulated

????

Are you saying 5k gets your trailer cold in the summmers of Texas in all scenarios?

Originally Posted by cansfan

Quick question 13.5k or 15k roof top ac unit? I have a 14x8 v-nose enclosed and i've insulated with 1-inch foam from homedepot. the local rv store said go with a 15k, but im thinking thats more of an upsale on their part. i gotta believe 13.5 non-ducted will be more than sufficient for approximately 100 sq ft. i do plan on installing the clear strips from ceiling to the floor to keep some of the cool air in when the rear ramp is open. oh yeah im in phoenix so it gets ridiculously hot in the summer.

I have an insulated 7 X 14 w/v-nose and I have a 15K BTU non ducted heat pump
This works well and if a little overkill it helps keep it tolerable with the rear doors open while flying at the field
Summer and winter - hot or cold!



Joe

Any secrets to keeping wraps, dirt doubers and other insects from building nests under our trailers? Went out to check something in mine and they were flying all around it, had to wait till dark and go out and spray them. looked to be dirt doubers.

No clue!!


SteveT.

I will begin.

Looking for advice:

I appreciate any advice in advance.


On the top of my 12 x 6 trailer, I installed solar panels.

I drilled holes on the roof of the ceiling, and when it rains, I get a small amount of water leaking inside.

Any suggestions on what material (what type of caulking) to use around the bolt head and the tab where it contacts the roof?


Will silicone stand up to 120 F temps?

Originally Posted by orthobird

I will begin.

Looking for advice:

I appreciate any advice in advance.


On the top of my 12 x 6 trailer, I installed solar panels.

I drilled holes on the roof of the ceiling, and when it rains, I get a small amount of water leaking inside.

Any suggestions on what material (what type of caulking) to use around the bolt head and the tab where it contacts the roof?


Will silicone stand up to 120 F temps?

Do not use silicone. It will not last. Use gutter and flashing caulk It stays flexible and is intended for continuous UV. Its generally called Butyl Flex Rubber Sealant. You may want to pull the bolts and apply some to the hole first, then cover the bolt and an inch or so around it when assembled.