I wouldn't sand any of the internal surfaces on carb,if you think that is the problem I would just buy a new carb.Just make sure you have all the gaskets in correct order,and check the flapper valves for sealing on body of carb.Also try opening both needles two turns out,it will be super rich but will insure gas is getting in.

I got the brilelli 60 cc running. Yay! Finally!
I got a different carb rebuild kit that had rubber type gasket instead of the Teflon type, I raised the metering needle lever just a touch, and I sanded the aluminum under the diaphragm where it was scratched, and I put a new carb gasket on. Seems to be doing great. Great tips on this thread.
I’ll put it on the plane and move the DA 50 to the test stand tomorrow.

For the non experienced folks like me searching these threads for answers, a couple things I learned getting the 60cc running. You guys may want to correct me if I’m wrong.
1) go ahead and change the carb gasket where it bolts to engine as well as the internal gaskets when rebuilding carb. ( I bought some gasket material at Auto parts store and made one)
2) don’t scratch carb surfaces when removing old stuck gaskets. Use goof off or something to soften gasket material and Brillo pad to scrub residue off.
3) use the rubber diaphragm gasket in the carb rebuild kit, not the acetate or Teflon type. ( carb kit came with a couple different kinds and I could only get the black rubbery one to work)
4) be patient and prepared to remove engine and or carb multiple times until you figure it out. The metering lever adjusting tool might be a wise investment ( I adjusted mine a few times before I got it right although I don’t know for sure which of the multiple things I did actually solved the problem. )

Awesome Phil. Glad you got it going and great post for your findings! Have fun this season!

This DA50 is driving me crazy. Cleaned carb, Replaced diaphragm and all gaskets inside carb, replaced carb mounting gaskets, reed valve assembly and reed valves, it will pop with choke on then with choke off it’ll run for one second. Can’t figure out what to do. I thought maybe it was leaking air around where I put the new gaskets on so I sealed them up with gasket sealer and that’s not helping either. I wish I wouldn’t have used any of the gasket sealer because now it’s a sticky mess. Any suggestions on what to try next?
Would the timing adjustment cause this ? I haven’t checked that yet.
One thing I noticed is a tiny little bit of fuel gets in the jumper hose to the pulse inlet. Does this mean I’m getting too much fuel into the carb? Maybe I should lower the metering needle a little?

There should be no guessing on that lever height. It's set right or it's not. "Adjusting" is something that's pretty much frowned on by most.

If that "jumper hose" has fuel in it, there's an excellent chance the diaphragm is ruptured. There should be no fuel there.

Just a wild guess here. Have you checked how your carb is assembled against a diagram showing how it's supposed to be? It's very easy to get gaskets and diaphragms assembled incorrectly. We've all done it.... -Al

Phil, try using a starter on it and use an old spinner .
Open both needles up til you get it to run, then adjust from there

Well I have taken the DA 50 off the test stand for a bit. I can’t seem to get it to run longer than one second. I don’t have an air frame to put it on right now anyway, I think I will try timing adjustment next after I do a little reading on that subject.

I will try it later but for now I am going to focus on one that I actually have a plane for... the ZDZ 80 RV-J. I ordered a Walbro WJ 71 carb for it as I read on here that the Tillotson carb which was giving me issues before was a fairly common problem. I ordered it from DA and it’ll have throttle and choke arms installed for a DA 85 ( hopefully arms work with my set up)
Thanks for your all’s advice on the DA50 and Brillelli 60. I’m learning lots of good stuff here

I installed the new carb on the ZDZ super 80. It’s drawing fuel well, and I’m getting a good spark, but it won’t start. there is a clanking sound coming from the engine. My question is if I tear into this engine, would it be worth trying to repair and can I get parts? And would you guys be willing to help me through the process? I’ve never Done this before but I have several engines that I would love to get running, just don’t know what I’m doing. I will probably break the engine down just to see if I can figure out what’s going on regardless but I hate to see a really good engine just go to waste. Thoughts?

Ohhh super nice. THANKS.

What's best for cleaning burnt oil n stuff from headers & pipes? Tried brake cleaner, but didnt do much.

I've used this product with good success. I left it on overnight. Here's a before and after photo of a header I used it on.

Thanks - is it available at hardware or auto big box stores? Only seeing it on amazon.

Originally Posted by CT Flier Guy

I've used this product with good success. I left it on overnight. Here's a before and after photo of a header I used it on.

would that stuff work to clean the inside of a canister or tuned pipe?

Carbon removal fluids generally are caustic based - not good on aluminium items
Berrymans sell a caby chemical dip that is alloy friendly , have had good results with it over the years
There is a canister cleaning thread here on FG with other cleaners that have been used that may also be helpful with ideas