Originally Posted by Hoistguy

Has Terry flown this airplane? And what does he think?

This is the first prototype, and no one has flown it.

First, I prepare everything need:
- Clamps with pool noodle: I use this to keep the wings or stabs upright on the table.
- Small cut up paper towels to wipe the excess glue
- A small cup of water with a piece of pipe cleaner (to moisten the hinge holes)
- A small rod (to spread the glue)

I use a piece of pipe cleaner dipped in water for moistening the wood in the hinge hole. Then I spread one thick drop of glue in the hole, a little on the hinge using a small rod.

Insert the hinges, and wipe off the excess glue: since the Gorilla polyurethane expands while drying, it need to be tended and wiped off a couple of times in the next few minutes.

The positioning of the hinge is important: it needs to swing perpendicular to the hinge lines (I have seen many installed swinging slanted, causing stress that will prematurely wear the hinge and will eventually cause failure). The pin need to be precisely positioned so the center of the pin is visible. If all the pins are not lined up, it will cause premature wear and possible fail.

Sealing the hinge gap is important: it improves the effectiveness of the control surfaces, and helps eliminate risks of flutter.
There are several methods for sealing the gap. I prefer using matching Ultracote, top and bottom.
For the ailerons, I used a 25mm wide strip, and 22mm wide for the elevators.
The strip is folded in half, taped on the hinge line to mark the hinge locations.
With a little practice, cutting half circles with a sharp X-acto knife becomes easier.
Tape the control surface fully deflected to iron on the sealing strip.

Originally Posted by Hoistguy

Has Terry flown this airplane? And what does he think?

News to me, I had nothing to do with this. However I have strongly suggested to Herve to make it larger. I designed a 70cc Viper in 2013 and it was amazing

Originally Posted by terryscustom

News to me, I had nothing to do with this. However I have strongly suggested to Herve to make it larger. I designed a 70cc Viper in 2013 and it was amazing

WHAT a Viper without Terrys input just looks like a Viper! What's up with that?

A very simple and excellent idea using the clamps as well as the pipe cleaner.

Did you do both sides of the hinges at the same time or did you let one side dry first before adding the control surface?

Originally Posted by dw87

A very simple and excellent idea using the clamps as well as the pipe cleaner.

Did you do both sides of the hinges at the same time or did you let one side dry first before adding the control surface?

I do one side at a time, controlling how deep the hinge goes, making sure the pin is in the right place.
I tried doing both years ago, and it turned into a disaster.

Trying to re-create a 93" or 94", 70cc Viper would not do it justice, unless we actually produced that specific design already tested and perfected by Terry.
This airframe is smaller, designed to be fun with a DA-50 at 88" wingspan. Based on calls and messages we have received, there are many 50 to 60cc single cylinder engines sitting in shops, looking for a home. We have customers who had our 88" Edge or Extra, looking for a new airframe that size.
Like our smaller Extra and Edge, bolting on a 70 twin brings the potential for a much more aggressive airframe. This one will have a DA-70, and Gabby and Spencer will soon have a chance to fly it, and assess the performance.

Made servo extensions: 48" or the elevators, 6" for the ailerons.
Wing servos are installed, with the control horns.

NOTE ON THE GOLD HARDWARE: following poplar demand, these are being phased out. All future productions will have G-10 and ball link type hardware, beginning with the updated 100cc Edge 540 Single Seat, and 50cc Edge 540T, currently on the ocean.

So what are the specs for this airframe?

Installing the elevators servos is a little trickier, in a tight space. For drilling the screw holes, a regular small bit is too short. I dremeled a small pushrod into a 4-sided point, and is works well for drilling the ribs.
Once the servo is installed, I use miniature adhesive wire keepers to shorten the pig tail, preventing the wire from dangling inside the tail.

Originally Posted by dw87

So what are the specs for this airframe?

Wingspan: 86"
Length: 86" including spinner
Wing Area: 1538 sq. in.
Spinner Required: 3.5"
Servos: 6

Next: mounting the engine.
Extend the lines of the crosshair lasered on the firewall.
Trace two vertical lines 39mm away from either side of the vertical center.
Trace two horizontal lines 33mm away from either side of the horizontal center.
Mount the cowl, and measure the distance from the firewall to the front of the cowl: here 174mm.
Place the engine on a flat surface facing up, and measure the length of the engine (DA-70): 140mm
174mm – 144mm = 20mm
So we need to use the SWB 1/2” standoff, which comes with additional fractional shims for adjustment.
The top bolts are close to the top edge, so the stand offs and fender washers need to be trimmed to fit. The required bolt length here is 2”, and fender washers will help spread the load to avoid crushing the wood when tightening.
The crosshair is not always in the perfect place, and we are pressing the factory to improve this precision. So I first mount the engine using only two bolts in diagonal, and then check that the engine is centered with the cowl: if it is not perfect, then only two holes need to be plugged with a slice of dowel, and the marks can be moved and re-drilled. This one was in the correct location.
* Another method many use is to stand the fuse on its tail, center the engine with the cowl, remove the cowl and mark the engine location.

The throttle servo can be installed in various locations depending on the engine used, the throttle lever geometry, and personal preference.
I installed this servo in the fuse, away from exhaust, gas, heat and possible ignition noise.
Once the servo linkage geometry is in place, I measure the approximate linear throw to select the correct throttle arm I can use without having to reduce the servo travel where it become ultra sensitive. I want to use as much servo travel as possible.

To make the hole for the fuel line into the carb, I use a brass tube in the cordless drill, and core an angled hole in direct line to the carb