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Old 03-13-2019, 09:30 AM
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"Winter is Coming!!"
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Hi Dave!!! First thing I would say is "Load that thing up, drive to my shop and we can fix it together!"

If that's not an option, here's what I would do.

With Monokote I have found each color has a "sweet spot" where it will shrink and stick again without crazy bubbling. I am sure Tom Wheeler can chime in as he built your beauty and just helped somebody else with the same issue.

So, find the sweet spot and then start at the top left corner of the part. I would use a Monokote hot glove (Mitten looking thing) if needed for your left hand. Or... I tie a new cotton undershirt fragment around the shoe of my iron. Carefully press down with the perfect heat for the color your are using. "DONT PRESS HARD" or you will create dents. Then like mowing your lawn move slowly from left to right across the part. Don't stay in one spot too long as you can melt the foam underneath the balsa. If there is a trouble bubble... trubble bubble.... use a new xacto blade tip and poke tiny holes and push the air out and iron it down.

Start on the bottom of the fuse or stabs to try and get confident with it. Take your time and call me anytime!!
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:40 AM
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Hi Dave,

What Josh said is correct about each color has it's sweet spot in terms of working temps. The only time I use a heat gun on Monokote is for open bay construction, not anything that is fully sheeted like your Dalton. I recently sent this post to Wieslaw (the guy from Poland that we built his JTEC's)….


I believe the wrinkles you are experiencing now have to do with the changes in humidity those two aircraft went through. We built them in the summer when the humidity is relatively high and the wood is basically expanded. Then they were shipped by sea where perhaps they expanded even more. Now it's winter and the humidity is generally much lower and the wood contracts but the now stretched film does not.

When this happens to my aircraft what I do is to work one section at a time with an covered iron and Monokote Hot Glove. For example, start at the outboard aileron, iron at hinge line, slowly move the iron straight down towards the trailing edge and follow the iron with the Hot Glove pushing the film into the wood. Wait a few moments between passes to see if the cooled covering has the wrinkles gone. If not repeat and for stubborn bubbles, use a needle to release the gas.

The important part is not to use a circular path with the iron, its been my experience that when trying to remove bubbles it makes more. So the technique that works for me is to use a straight path with the iron and following glove towards an edge or a seam to allow the gas to escape.

Tom
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:04 PM
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Thanks, guys. I will give it go. I have some extra blue, and I bought some white. I will try on some scraps before I risk the plane. It's too damn nice to screw up.

Tom, there are very few bubbles on this plane. I'm just a bit anal about trying to get really close to wrinkle free. I guess that comes from always painting planes that I built. I know with my previous ARFs, it was usually a few sessions early in the first season after a few hours in the sun, and then one more session after the winter. By the second season, no more wrinkles. Given that, I was not surprised to see a couple wrinkles show up while it's been in my basement.

Josh, I might just take you up on that next time I'm looking for a road trip. It will have to be after the 22nd though. That's when the trailer is due to show up. With any luck, my plane will be ready by then as well. All I have left to do is hook up the canisters, balance the ailerons, and clean up the radio programming.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming. I'm really looking forward to seeing this plane in person.

Dave
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:11 PM
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Nice Dave! Any weekend, just let me know if you end up driving North.

Are your knees knocking yet? I'm starting to get a little nervous already and I haven't even mounted the engine lol.
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:03 PM
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Oh, yeah! Definitely knocking a few knees over the prospect of this plane in the air. I plan on flying my 91" and a couple of others several times before even thinking about flying the big bird.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:33 AM
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Wing Graphic

I took some time and started making some graphics for the airplane. I wanted to display what this aircraft is, but a little differently than most. I really wanted a huge port side wing "stamp" graphic so I dove into my vector program and came up with this.

Eric at B&E Graphix is going to cut it for me. It's going to be 22" in diameter. Installed close to the root of the port side wing. I can't wait to get it!
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:40 AM
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Just havin' fun!
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B&E is great! I just got my first order of several items from them for a project I've been working on. They were very fast and I got exactly what I wanted. I could spend alot of money with them...

Your plane looks awesome!
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:12 PM
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Thank DGrant! Yep, they have cut me vinyl decals for years. They do a great job. I just found out they wrap race cars. Those must be some pretty big vinyl cutting machines!

Got a wing ready for the details. Aerate for two 1/2" strips of white and sky blue next and then get it out of the way.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:07 PM
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Wing Covering

More wing process...
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i8dpeach View Post
More wing process...
What do you use to aerate?
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Old 03-15-2019, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatchesP View Post
What do you use to aerate?
Hi Patches!

I use a woodpecker tool but I only use a single needle wheel. The ends of the points are sharpened as fine as I can get them carefully using a grinder and then a dremel sanding drum to finish it. I only use the weight of the tool as I roll it along. The single wheel gives a lot of control instead of all 4-5. I will try to remember to post a picture of it.

The point is to make the smallest, most precise little holes you can. Not big gaping ones. You still need to reduce the heat a bit when applying the covering and work the stripe from the center out to the sides with the iron. Then turn the heat up and nail it down. I do this anywhere the covering overlaps more than 1/4".
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:34 AM
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Hey John!! I know you had to replace 10-32 threaded rods for control horns in one of your planes. What length do you recommend for Ailerons/Elevators with 1" arms? I'm going to order some from McMaster Carr. They have some hardened steel rod.

TY!
Josh
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:15 PM
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Josh, All I can say is: You are good man. I really like your results.

Cam
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:21 PM
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I hammer at 1500 feet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i8dpeach View Post
Hey John!! I know you had to replace 10-32 threaded rods for control horns in one of your planes. What length do you recommend for Ailerons/Elevators with 1" arms? I'm going to order some from McMaster Carr. They have some hardened steel rod.

TY!
Josh
Hi Josh, i used these from McMaster Carr:

it is a threaded rod that has a hex head on the end of the rod.

It is called an alloy steel cup point set screw
black oxide
10-32 thread
2 - 1/2" long



https://www.mcmaster.com/91375a453
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:23 PM
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I hammer at 1500 feet
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I should say, the threaded rod does not show up on the top side of the elevator.
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