the peanut gallery strikes again

"The guys at the field had me going to other way :-( "

Originally Posted by renlis01

Can someone help me out with the following problem ?

I'm still trying to get my new RCGF 20cc to run properly... After reading MFUESS doc on how to properly set the carb I was able to do a perfect fly for at least 10 minutes, when all of the sudden the engine almost quit. I was able to land the plane and noticed that it was spitting a lot of fuel when I hit the throttle. After removing the engine and the carb I noticed that the reed valve was torn ... it was not even with the whole. My guess is that this is the cause of all the gas coming out of the carb when I give throttle up.. Is my assumption correct ??? If so, I need a new reed and that is where the problem is for me !! What is that made of ?? looks like fiberglass ... I've read here that this guy used the inside of a floppy disk !! Is that really something that can be used for this purpose ?

Best regards,

Renato.

For a QUICKIE repair, just cut up a soda or beer can to make a reed. This will work until you buy the correct reeds.

Originally Posted by mfuess

For a QUICKIE repair, just cut up a soda or beer can to make a reed. This will work until you buy the correct reeds.

That solution even lasts longer than you would care for.
Warning!
Drink the beer first!

sub.

Hello Mark,
i have a question regarding fuel tank. right now i installed black neoprene for the clunk line and the yellow tygon fuel line to the carb. shall i use the tygon line all around or this should be fine? thanks a lot.

I would not use neoprene in a gas setup, I have had too many lines split or perish, I have used it in the past and have had it has last as little as 2 flights. In my opinion it is much better and safter to just use tygon with a heavy clunk, change every few months or so for security.

sub.

Originally Posted by cool

Hello Mark,
i have a question regarding fuel tank. right now i installed black neoprene for the clunk line and the yellow tygon fuel line to the carb. shall i use the tygon line all around or this should be fine? thanks a lot.

The best combination I have found is: Black Neoprene in the gas tank, and Tygon from the tank to carb. I get about a year on them.

Originally Posted by mfuess

The best combination I have found is: Black Neoprene in the gas tank, and Tygon from the tank to carb. I get about a year on them.

Black neoprene reacted with my local gas and gummed up the screens in two engines. I only use tygon or Viton in my tanks now.

Originally Posted by JoeAirPort

Black neoprene reacted with my local gas and gummed up the screens in two engines. I only use tygon or Viton in my tanks now.

Where can you get Viton?

Originally Posted by STLAV8R

Where can you get Viton?

It's MC part number 5119K41:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#viton-fluor...tubing/=8ffzhv

Basically you need the 1/8" I.D. with the thinnest wall thickness (1/4" O.D.) and the softest material (60A).

I use Tygon F-4040-A, both for clunk and all other lines, even for engine pulse lines.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tygon-f-4040-a-tubing/=8fhso4
It softens (swells) slightly when in use, but it holds very well.

Pe,

That's the best grade of Tygon for our applications.

Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics, www.tygon.com for Tygon product specs.

Is that what Dubro sells? That's the brand I have always bought.

I seriously doubt Dubro packages the Type F. It's the pricey stuff. What I get out of a Dubro package typically is only marginally better than the stuff on the roll at a hardware store. I know hobby shops don't buy and sell the F type for their bulk supplies.