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Old 09-19-2015, 10:15 AM
TazmanianDevil is offline
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Build Log
Krill Extra 330 LX Build Log.

Hi guys

I think Krill made a quantum leap from my old SU 29, no seams in the fuse very neat, well organised intiriure like the SC.
The engine box all the way to the wing tube is well reinforced with carbon, also the tail, where the stab tube.
The line is clean and the colors are bright.

The gear block is from ply and looks very strong...VERY LIGHT PLANE !
The wings are very light also the stabs and rudder.

I ordered mine with the split cowl although I'm about to install a MVVS 175 on it...why not a 4 banger, I guess its the weight issue and the 175 is a real power plant.
To confiscate the "tractor" issue when it comes to the 4 or 2 banger engine I'm going to use a 3 blade prop, a Mejzlik 30-13 evo and see the result, the 31-12 is always an option.

The setup I'm going to use is :

9 Savox servos SG 2270 brushless servos.
2 Fromeco Lion 5200mAh packs
2 Fromeco HV regs
No switches at all !
SmartFly EQ 10 W/engine cutoff
MVVS 175cc engine with MVVS cans
Home made cans holders
specially design baffles made from fiberglass
2 parallel 32oz Fourtitude fuel tanks (64oz of fuel man....)
Going to sew my own design wings, fuse and stab bags, for the transportation (I live on the 3rd floor guys...the elevators are too small)
Mejzlik prop
J&J tail wheel...its a must.
Carbon spinner W/ aluminium back plate
All the push rods are going to be made with threaded rod and lined with carbon tube.
Aluminium servo arms
Home made panel
No Limits MVVS pilot.
JR XG 14 for the controls with temp and rpm telemetry
Aerographix decals, well...as you can see, the plane has the exact colors like Aerographix, it was inevitable.
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Last edited by TazmanianDevil; 04-22-2016 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:18 AM
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Inside look and most of the accessories.

The split cowl is going to be a very easy task when you'll want to install the baffles or work and check the engine.
No need to take the prop off, and if you'll need to do something on the bottom, you can unscrew 4 screws and turn the bottom cowl upside down...
A lot of carbon on the engine box, the gear block seems to be much stronger.

Also you got some carbon reinforcement in the tail area.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:27 AM
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Because I have an apartment and I live on the third floor I need to have some heavy line up cushion to transport the plane and when I finish working on it it needs to go back to the cover fast easy and protected.
All are being cushioned with a 1/2" foam on both sides.
Got my sewing machine working to sew the bags for the stabs, wings, rudder and fuse without the canopy.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:31 AM
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The rudder

About 10 min work, more measurements just to be sure and than I've glued it with 5 minutes Epoxy.

The slots are already factory made so it's just clean the horns and file them a little bit for better gluing and clean them with alcohol.

The funny thing with ARFs is that you always improvise new tools just to finish the plane.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:33 AM
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The stabs

Same method as before but I was needed to file the horns on the bottom end a little bit to fit the slots ie depth.
Used again epoxy 5 min cure.

I've connected both horns with a ball link to make it straight.
When you glue them to the surface you'll need to apply some force to keep them in place. Well they tend to move a little bit fw because of the ball link weight.

When the glue is cured after about 5-6 min peel the blue tape off before the glue is completely cured if not you'll have some hard time to do it.
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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Stab tube

Made out from carbon I will need to implant some ply to make it have enough threads for the screws on both sides.
I will do the right one now and when I'll get the Fuz protections I'll make the other side ie left.
I'll use a M4 threader long enough to make it fix the stabs in a very rigid way.

The hole I'll drill will be in a little angle towards the inside so when I'll screw it, it will be self alighted and will force the stabs move about a 1/16 towards the fuse.
At the beginning it will be very hard to find the threads but after a wile when the plane is well Broken in it will be better and considering the wear and tear I won't need to re drill it again.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:45 PM
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Hrm I used a nylon rod for my elevators, the nylon will not wear out as fast as the wood, the nylon was secured using hysol.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alkaline View Post
Hrm I used a nylon rod for my elevators, the nylon will not wear out as fast as the wood, the nylon was secured using hysol.
Can you please send me a picture and links to the stuff you're using.
I can do that on the other side though.
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:19 PM
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Very nice looking plane, I would love to see how it compares to the Carf330sc in flight. I came close to getting a krill but ended up going carf after the wife saw the scheme i was looking at and offered to buy it for me , can't pass up that offer. Shortly after that i decided i wanted a custom color scheme so i baught a second.
Good job on your build and look forward to seeing the end pictures. love the scheme and colors as it my fav college football team colors the Boise state Broncos.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:36 PM
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Did the wing horns today with the rudder pull pull setup.
The horns are needed to be cut down at the base at about 1/4" to fix the slots.
After that it's nothing but gluing them both.
The wing has only two servos like every well respected imac machine.
What I love about this wing design is that the servos and the ail hinge are on the same line what makes all the geometry easy to fix and true not to mention the linearity.

Again the wings are lite well not like some Cardens I sew but as for a composite plane they are lite.

The bags are also being fixed to the size and I did some modifications.
Wings and fuse...
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:37 PM
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The rudder setup.
Like I said before I will need to take all apart so I'll be able to transport it in my car.
The rudder for that is a must.
So with the Secraft pull pull kit it's like 123.
The rudder movement is not like 3D planes it moves about 30-40 degrees not more.
Why pull pull and not push pull well there are some pros and cons but since I'm flying only on paved roads I had bad experience with push pull, every landing I was needed to replace a servo not enough flexibility and when I fly you must have a stirring wheel.

The ball links are connected up and down the bellcrank so the cables won't touch one another.
The tension in the cables are all the way when you move the rudder krill made the horns and the bellcrank the same length so when you install the ball links on the end of the arm where the offset is, it keeps the tension the entire way.
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:58 AM
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Very Nice ADI

Luiz
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:17 PM
TazmanianDevil is offline
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Krill Extra 330 LX

Hi buddy what's up ?
Have you flown yours yet ?
Can you please give me info about the throws in each and every surface.
I'm stuck a little bit withe the building right now I'll get back when I'll get the servos and a new engine.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:21 PM
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subd
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:42 AM
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Krill Extra 330 LX

I've waited for a long time for the servos. Finally I've got them.
9 Savox 2270 brushless with 444 oz and 0.12 at 7.4V.
I'm going to use HV Fromeco regs and adjust them to 7.4V so the servos will get 7.4V constant.

Today I worked on the Stabs and elevator after all this s is what the IMAC plane is all about, the throws on the elev so after some thoughts Ive decide to use the 1" route
It will give the most linear fill and with the right geometry it will even make the force bigger due to the leverage.
The slots I did will also be a way to cool the servos on very hot days.
I used a home made threaded rod with carbon as the pushrods and Dubro ball links.
Overhaul throw is 30 degrees up, 35 down.
I literally got the arm inside the skin to get enough throw yet still use 1" arm.


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Last edited by TazmanianDevil; 11-11-2015 at 10:59 AM.
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