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Old 01-19-2016, 01:17 PM
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EF 110" Yak 54 V2

OK guys we have all long awaited the V2 of this EF classic. Last week Northwest RC got a shipment and at the end of this week Extreme Flight in Georgia will have their first shipment. So guys it is time for a new assembly thread. I am starting this with the build/assembly/setup/tips/etc for all things related to this plane. Lets start with a few pics of the finished product, BandE is working on graphix.
Jeff
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:17 PM
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You can download the manual from the EF website:

http://extremeflightrc.com/assets/im...0Yakmanual.pdf

I am going to list what I used here, it may differ slightly from the manual. I wrote the manual and many times you have to write things bigger than they are, for example extensions may be listed in a range of length instead of a specific length.
But let us look at some of the prerequisites:
Extensions:
Throttle: 18"
Ailerons outer 24 inner none
Elevator 2X36"
Rudder, if pull pull none, if push/pull then 36"
http://extremeflightrc.com/20-AWG-Se...ons_c_556.html

Dimensions:
Wingspan = 110” (wing panel is 49x24x13)
Fuselage length from the front of the motor to the most aft point on rudder = 97”
(Note this does not include the spinner)
Ground to top of rudder = 27.5”
Ground to top of canopy = 28”
Horizontal/elevator span = 43.5”
Gear span from outer edge of cuff to other cuff = 30.5”
Front of firewall to front of cowling = 7”
Cowling inner diameter = 13.75”

I will be running a DA120 and Falcon 29X9 and 28X10 props with Omega 5" CF Spinner.
http://extremeflightrc.com/Omega-5-C...CC_p_1957.html
http://extremeflightrc.com/Falcon-Ca...10_p_2190.html

Extreme Flight RC 34oz flowmaster tank
http://extremeflightrc.com/FlowMaste...nk_p_1999.html

MKS Servos
Elev/rudd MKS HBL380 http://extremeflightrc.com/MKS-X8-HB...vo_p_1901.html
Ailerons MKS 777HV http://extremeflightrc.com/MKS-HV777...vo_p_1900.html
Throttle MKS 1250 http://extremeflightrc.com/MKS-HV125...vo_p_2143.html

The ultracote colors are:
the yellow/blue/silver scheme they are bright yellow HANU872, silver HANU881 and midnight blue HANU885. The other scheme is deep blue HANU873, true red HANU866, white HANU870, silver HANU881.

Assembly to follow.
Jeff
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:21 PM
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The manual is quite detailed and no real reason to just simply rewrite it here, so I am going to abbreviate it some on here as more of a supplement.
It is always good to begin with invertory of the boxes. Do you have all your parts? If not, now is the time to contact EF. Mine was all good so I took the wings and all the hardware and laid them out on my work table. I began by hinging the ailerons and elevators all at the same time. You can do them individually but I (and those of you that are experienced) can do it this way also. I scuff the hinge, lather the hole with 30 minute epoxy and be sure you protect the middle pin portion from glue with like vaseline or similar, then insert the hinge pin into just one side and allow it to dry. Then I mate the remaining surface, to me it is just easier this way as I can be absolutely sure I got good adhesion and that the hinge is at the proper depth in the hole, which is having the pin even with the bevel, no deeper and certainly not protruding. Just a side note here before you get too far, the horizontal inner most 3 hinges are clipped so they don't hit the tube, be sure you keep these oriented properly and in the correct holes. You can hinge the rudder now if you desire, but do not nistall the control horns unless you are positively sure you are pull pull or push/pull. Now I move to the control horns, be sure to note on the ailerons you can have up to 3 servos per wing. As such there are 3 different control horns, thus the hole for the ball link is located in highest portion for the outer servo, and middle for the center servo (if using) and lower for the inner most servo. The elevator control horns are the same for the left and right. Be sure to scuff the lower portion of the control horn that will go into the slot, I also scuff the base plate that will touch the wood. Trial fit the horn/base plate and remove the covering accordingly under the base plate. Now you can glue your horn/plate. In these pictures you will notice my horns are not the normal G10 color. I simply airbrushed them to match the covering, they are standard horns. Now you can install your servos. All servos are oriented shaft forward in this plane. So with that, secure the servo, run any extensions (Aileron 24-36"/elevs 36"). Now you can take your pushrods and thread the ball links onto them, I am cautions they are onto the threads the same amount of turns. Using the 3mm X 16mm allen bolt put a washer on and then thru the ball link and onto the servo arm, then a washer and then the nylon insert nut, be sure to use blue thread lock (BTL). Then I do the same for the contol horn, the pictures should help clear up any questions and the manual is way more detailed.
Jeff
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:22 PM
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If you did not install the rudder hinges in the above step then do that now using the same techniques as the ailerons/elevators. Lets get it on her legs. I like to do the tailwheel first because it seems easier to do w/o the main gear already on it. So I use my stands and gather my tailwheel hardware package. I start with putting the bolt/nylon insert onto the gear bracket, the nut goes on the bottom and then tighten, use BTL. I do something that you may consider, I file small flat spots on any place a wheel collar will be tightened. This allows it to snug up against a flat spot thus yielding a bit more grip, only do this if you very comfortable with the process. Be sure you file a very small amount, too much will weaken the part. OK, now slide a wheel collar onto the gear wire and do not tighten at this time. Slide the wire up thru the bolt/nut housing and into the tiller arm housing, you may tighten the tiller housing set screws and the snug the wheel collar up against the bolt/nut housing and use BTL on all set screws. Next I install the white ball link into the bottom of the rudder, measure back from the rudder hinge line 4" and make mark, now drill a 1/8" hole and install the ball link with epoxy (consider scuffing the ball link before glueing for better adhesion). Once this is dry slide the tiller arm thru the ball link and then line up the gear bracket with the three mounting holes. Use BTL and washers to install your 3mm bolts. Now install your tailwheel with the two remaining wheel collars.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:22 PM
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Locate all your main landing gear parts. I feel it is easier to install the axles/tires before mounting the gear but you could mount the gear first. However, be sure you know the orientation of the gear so you install everything in the correct fashion. Trial fit the main landing gear to the fuselage and the gear should sweep forward. Insert the axle threaded end thru the hole in the gear and then put the washer and nylon insert nut onto the axle threads and tighten, use BTL and repeat process for the other side. Now the spats, these can be a tedious thing to install because the question always is, where exactly do I put them so they aren't too high or too low. Well that can be a personal thing due to the looks, or if you fly off grass versus hard surface and so on. Thus I would assess your situation and then mount them higher or lower. Mine will show a sort of middle of the road between higher and lower mounting. In any case, I hold them in place to where I like the fit then mark it for the hole. Exercise some patience with drilling this hole, because it will need to be 5/8" diameter so it can fit over the hex head on the axle. I suggest drilling a small hole like 1/8" then progressing in diameter untill you can fit a dremel tool in there and finish the remainder. Another hint is to use masking tape or similar on the spat, mark your hole and draw a 5/8" circle so you know exactly when to stop removing material. There are other ways to do this, please share if you will but this is how I did it. Also avoid trying to remove material quickly, it will lead to paint chipping and possible breaking the spat. Once you have this completed install it on the axle hex head and drill a 1/8" hole from the other side thru the gear and spat. Then install the blind nut in the spat and glue in place, then insert the 3mm bolt/washer from the inner gear side and tighten, use BTL.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:22 PM
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To mount the main landing gear (MLG) I found it easier to remove the laser cut piece that covers the pipe tunnel. This allowed me access to the holes for the MLG. It does not matter if you put the bolt heads on the gear side or inside the plane, I found it easier to put the bolt heads on the gear and the nuts inside the plane. Either way, install all 4 bolts/washers/nylon insert nuts and use BTL. If you want to install the gear cuffs here is how I did them. First begin by trial fitting the cuff onto the gear. I suggest you don't push it against the fuselage but leave a small space. When landing the gear flexes and having the cuff too close could cause damage. I have about 1/16" to 1/8" gap, but you can do it either way. Once you are satisfied with the fit, mark this position with blue tape or similar. This will help in keeping the glue where it should be. I scuffed the inside of the cuff where it mounts to the gear for better adhesion. I also scuffed the gear, but consider that once you do this to the gear is will forever show should one day you decide not to use the cuffs. I have had good luck with just scuffing the cuff and using welders adhesive and allowing sufficient curing time.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:23 PM
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The engine choice for us is the DA 120. We feel it provides the best power to weight ratio and this plane has been designed around that motor. This discussion will be on the DA120 installation, other engines may not follow these procedures. Locate the plywood drilling guide, hold it to the firewall and if your alignment is correct, then drill 1/4" holes. We recommend using 1/4" X 3" bolts at 20 thread per inch. The reason is because we are highly recommending 1" clearance from the propeller to the cowing. In order to achieve this 1.75" standoffs are required. You may now fit the motor to the firewall, I used nylon insert nuts and washer on the back side of the firewall and red thread lock (RTL).
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:23 PM
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Throttle servo time, EF is recommending the MKS1250 for the servo (http://extremeflightrc.com/MKS-HV125...vo_p_2143.html) but for during the assembly I did not have one on hand so the JR8411HV is shown and would make an excellent choice for a throttle servo also. Either servo is installed the same, there is a hole inside the motorbox for the throttle servo which is for a standard size case. Hardware for the pushrod is included and a 1" servo is plenty to get good servo geometry/servo resolution. Mount the servo facing forwards or backwards, the included pushrod is long enough to accomodate either, then mount the servo. I found the arm and pushrod work best if mounted on the left side of the servo if using a DA120. Using an extended 1/8" drill bit I drilled a hole thru the firewall to run the pushrod thru. I found it worked better if I put a small bend in my pushrod to weave around some of the motor items, this is in your judgement. Next I put the Easy connector onto the servo arm, be sure you snug the nut on the bottom but it is still able to swivel, use BTL. The carb end is the threaded end and you will put the white ball link on it and connect it like the other ball links.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:23 PM
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I like to trial fit the cowling next. EF has done an excellent job on the cowling, this thing is huge. I held up to a 5 gallon bucket of paint and the Yak cowl was bigger, soooooo lets get it on there and figure out where your stock mufflers will need to be cut. I cannot tell you exactly where to cut, but trial fit and then with a pencil reach inside the cowl and make an outline of your exhaust port by holding the pencil against the engine's exhaust flange, this is how I do it there are other ways. This will get you a starting point, then I take the cowling off and using a dremel tool and cutoff wheel I start the rough cutting. Now I mount the mufflers to see how much more I need to cut away and it is just a process of cutting, trial fitting and repeating till you get the desired clearance. While you have your dremel tool handy I suggest you make whatever other cuts you want for engine cooling. The general consensus on this is to take your inlet air dimensions and multiply by 3 for your cooling air exhaust dimension. Now it also the time to decide how you may want your choke to mount, I just run a pushrod and ball link to the choke horn and thru the bottom of the cowling, also think about where you might want to run the vent line from your fuel tank. If mounting pipes you will need to cutout the already perferrated cutout plate below the motor box to expose the pipe tunnel. Pipe mounts and silicon tubing is supplied and works very well.
Next I install my baffle plate into the front of the cowling. I begin by trial fitting the baffle plate in the cowl, if all is good then mark on the inside of the cowling where the baffle plate will be and also on the front of the baffle plate where the cowl will mate to it. Make marks that you can clean off or use tape, this will allow you to protect against sanding or marking on the baffle plate where it might show later. I now lightly sand the inside of the cowl and the front of the baffle plate. BE SURE YOU ONLY SAND WHERE IT MATES the marks you should have made already will protect against this, proceed slowly and methodically so you will have a beautiful baffle plate once finished. Next I opted to cutout the center for the engine prop shaft, this can also be done very nicely with with a dremel cutoff wheel then a sanding wheel. Once you have this all completed you are ready to glue it in, there are various glues you could use, but I opted for 30 minute epoxy where the baffle meets the inside of the cowling. As a bit of insurance once this was dry I also laid up some 3/4oz cloth and finishing resin applied to the inside of the cowling and baffle plate to keep the edges of the baffle plate in check. Now that you have all this done, like myself you will want to cut openings for cooling air to flow over your cylinder heads.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:24 PM
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The next item is the fuel tank. I am really excited about the new tanks from Extreme Flight.......the Flowmaster series. Here is a link to the exact fuel tank I used: http://extremeflightrc.com/FlowMaste...nk_p_1999.html.
The normal tank mounting area is the plate that is over the wing tube. I use and highly recommend Velcro one wrap. You can easily find the rolls of this in 3/4" width by 6-7' rolls at Wal Mart, Lowes, Meijer, Rural King, Menards and usually hardware stores. If none of those are near you then Ebay and Amazon sell it, I do not use the ties. This is a roll and I cut the desired length. I use this one wrap for everything needing secured including my servo wires and anything that can move. OK, the Flowmaster tank comes ready to install, but if you desire it comes with a small piece of brass tubing you can install inside the tank on the feed/pickup line that goes to your engine. Installing this brass tubing will guard against the clunk wrapping the fuel line forward and being stuck at the front of the tank. Simply cut the feed line and install the brass tubing, be sure to install the securing clips and that the clunk is free to move in all attitudes. Fuel line expands once it comes in contact with fuel and these clips are critical on the inside of the tank. Another really nice feature is that the fill and vent elbows can reside in either place of the other. I also used the new Extreme Flight Flowmaster gas fuel tubing. I really like this tubing as it is flexible and really adheres to the brass tubing. It can be difficult to slide on the tubing, so I use a small needlenose pliers then push the tubing onto them and spread the tubing so it temporarily expands it and I found this helps immensely to slide it on the brass tubing. To secure the tank I first install 1/2" foam rubber under the tank, this helps to keep the tank from sliding and gives it padding to prevent any wear from the plywood and overall vibration. Next I thread the one wrap around the tank and thru the tabs/slots in the ply plate. Now I run my fuel lines, the tank is setup for a 3 line system. Meaning one line will go to the engine, another goes to the fuel dot and the third is the vent line that I run out the bottom of the cowling. Plus the vent line I run around the back of the tank to the bottom of the cowling, this prevents fuel from running out in certain attitudes. Finally you will see in the one picture there is a piece of one wrap running between the two pieces of one wrap that secures the tank. I do this because it guards against either primary piece of one wrap from slipping off the tank, especially the forward piece.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:24 PM
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Next I installed the fuel dot. I used the Extreme Flight fuel filler cap: http://extremeflightrc.com/Fuel-Fill...as_p_1918.html
These are a straigh forward installation and I really only wan to point out where I put mine. It is on the right side of the fuselage just behind the aft edge of the cowling. There is actully a precut area for a switch, but beefed up that hole with some 1/8 light ply and then cut the necessary holes for the EF Fuel filler cap. Once installed I held a piece of flowmaster fuel tubing and left an extra 6", this will allow the line to extend out the side of the fuselage for fueling/defueling.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:24 PM
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Next I installed my receiver, batts, switches and I tried to use the factor cutouts as much as possible. You could mount these items in a variety of locations but I opted for putting the receiver at the front of the rudder tray, my batteries are on the plate with the fuel tank and my switches are in the factory cutouts. Now once you have these items in your desired locations I suggest taping the rudder servo in the rudder tray or in the rear servo bay and tring to balance your airplane. If using a DA120 chances are it will balance with the rudder servo in the mid rudder tray. But you might be able to move it to the rear servo bay for a push/pull system and then relocating your batteries in the motorbox if necessary. The most desireable Center of Gravity (CG) is the middle of the wing tube to the rear of the wing tube. You will have to take some time now and work this out, there are so many engine/batt options it is impossible to write one way of doing things, if you use the same equipment we did then you will likely be able to follow this example. But even at that wood density can alter the weight of the plane so plan on doing this step to be sure you have a desireable CG. Now once you have that desired CG you will now know whether you are going to mount your rudder servo in the middle rudder tray or in the rear servo bay. Keep in mind this example is written using a single servo, if using two then that can drastically change things. Again, take your time and get this step right.
We ended up using a pull pull rudder system, if using a push/pull or sometimes referred to as a direct drive hookup that system is exactly like hooking up your aileron or elevator servos. So lets quickly cover the direct drive/pushpull setup. There are two rear rudder servo bays located approximately 3" forward of the rudder hinge line, you can use either side or both if using two rudder servos. Now here is why we did not install the rudder control horns earlier. You had to know which rudder method you are using because the control horns mount in different places according to the rudder installation placement. In this direct drive there are horn slots are located approximately 1.25" inches up from the bottom of the rudder on each side of the rudder. Remove the covering and install one or both sides with the control horns depending on if you are using one or two rudder servos. These install just like the ailerons/elevators we did earlier in the assembly process. Now using the supplied pushrods thread the ball links on them and finish your setup just like the ailerons/elevators. We used a 2" servo arm. Please note in the final picture I did not install the servo screws or the nylon insert nut onto the 3mm bolt in the ball link, I was only trying to show what it would look like for demo purposes. Be sure to install those items.
Jeff
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:25 PM
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I'm off work Friday, so I'll be picking mine up then. Saving my spot here for my setup.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:25 PM
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This step will illustrate the pullpull method. I begin by mounting my servo in the tray, there is a plywood servo tray that you will need to glue in place first. I locate the control horn slots and the slots for the cable exits thru the sides of the fuselage. A picture below will aid in locating these slots. Unwind your coated cable and approximate the length needed to run each line to the control horns. In this preproduction model I made a rough measurement and found by cutting the cable in half it gave me equal lengths with plenty of extra working length of cable. Be sure you have enough cable before cutting. You can start at either end, I will begin at the control horn. I first thread on a crimp, followed by a rigging coupler (thread the ball link on the rigging coupler) and using as little extra cable as possible. I then thread the cable back thru the crimp, then loop it back thru the crimp again and using a crimping tool or a good set of pliers I squeeze the crimp flat. Now hook it to the control horn in the same manner as the ail/elev. I will throw this in here, but it is a matter of personal preference. I now slide two pieces of heat shrink onto the cable such that when I am done with all of the installation I slide the heat shrink over the crimped area for a cleaner look. Now thread the cable thru the fuselage slots and up to the servo. You will use the same method with the crimp/rigging coupler with ball link as we did at the rudder control horn. Exercise patience to attain a length that will yield a taunt cable with the rudder and rudder servo centered. I centered my rudder and taped it in place to aid in this step. Once you are sure it is taunt then make the crimp, be sure you leave some threads showing on the rigging couplers because once you fly the model, the cables stretch and will need adjusted. Repeat for the other cable.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:25 PM
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This essentially completes the assembly, lets look at some final issues.
Setup and flying: I installed my batteries and receiver in the rudder/fuel tray, but you can locate your batteries as needed if the rudder servo method in post #12 did not yield the desireable CG location.
The desired range is:
Forward limit CG - front of wing tube
Most desirable CG – Midpoint of wingtube to trailing edge of wing tube
Aft limit CG – up to .5" behind the trailing edge of the wing tube
Suggested throws in degrees:
Low middle/medium High
Elevator 20 45 55
Aileron 25 32 38
Rudder 3" L/R As desired for middle and high rates but don’t touch the elevators
Expo 30-35 35-45 40-50

Also refer to the Extreme Flight Vimeo channel (https://vimeo.com/channels/103498) for videos that further explain assembly.
THX,
Jeff Williams
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