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Old 05-08-2016, 11:06 PM
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Phenolic Block Issues - 3W100iB2

I have an old style twin 3W100 with the brown phenolic block between the carb and the engine. I seem to have continual problems with leaks. Last time I removed it, sanded on a piece of glass and reinstalled. It ran great for 15-20 flights then started having issues again. After closer inspection, I noticed (again) fuel residue on the phenolic. I have tried to "lightly" tighten it to avoid warping the block. This time I tightened a little more (probably warped the darn thing.....).

Is there a torque value to use for tightening the carb to the phenolic and for the phenolic to the engine? Has anyone tried a small amount of high temp sealant (I haven't and don't really want to and take a chance of gumming up passages).

I see on the AI's site there is the brown phenolic for the 3W100, but the 3W106 has an aluminum piece instead. Are they interchangeable and not as touchy?

FYI, I have the engine baffled as well as have plenty of outlet area.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:46 PM
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That's at least a 9
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I would give Gerhard a call. He can tell you for sure what the best options are. The phenolic blocks were prone to cracking and leaking.
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:19 AM
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definitely purchase the metal reed block and spacer for your 3w from Gerhard at Aircraftinternational.com
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:47 AM
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Gimmie the sticks-I'll fly it.
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I would agree with the above comments. I have replaced the blocks with the aluminum upgrade and have not regretted it not once. It really is worth the few extra dollars spent to get a constant and dependable running 3dub.
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:43 AM
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+4 on this. I sent mine to Gerhard for this retrofit and not 1 difference in running ever. No surging, no dead sticks, just constant running.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:39 AM
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Thanks for all the responses. Sounds great other than he is at Joe Nall and won't be back for a week or so. Timing is everything.....
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-ster View Post
Thanks for all the responses. Sounds great other than he is at Joe Nall and won't be back for a week or so. Timing is everything.....
I have one on a 106 that Im not using. You want this one and then replace it for me?
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:29 AM
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They're get'n lower mate.....
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Get the alloy reed box conversion as previous post's have suggested -
Double check new components for flatness by sanding on a sheet of glass ( you will be surprised at how flat they are not) apply just a thin smear of permatex II non hardening aviation gasket goo to all mating surfaces or just the gaskets and tighten it all up
Clean out the carby while its all apart for good measure
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:04 AM
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careful and don t get gasket goo in pulse port,,,
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:06 PM
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Thanks Bunky for the generous offer, but will wait until Gerhard gets back to get one. I have several other planes to fly, just me being antsy. I hate undone things on my airplanes.....
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:21 PM
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Maybe we can print one with an O ring groove?
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:35 PM
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Just your Average Joe.
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Originally Posted by T-ster View Post
Thanks Bunky for the generous offer, but will wait until Gerhard gets back to get one. I have several other planes to fly, just me being antsy. I hate undone things on my airplanes.....
All good man. I'm the same way.
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:06 PM
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You want to seal the block with anaerobic gasket sealer, just a thin coating and don't torque down the bolts too much. It's the stuff that 3W uses.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for all of the help. Have the aluminum block on the road from AI and going to buy the Permatex tonight!
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:23 PM
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Here is the one I machined up for my 3w 140. Seals much better......
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