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Old 09-15-2017, 02:54 PM
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Moke 30 RC engine

Hi all,
I'm trying to find out what engine this is.
the crankcase says Moki 30 RC. This is a nitro engine.
Moki's website doesn't list a "30"
they have 135, 180,210 ect...
any help would be appreciated.
thanks.
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Old 09-15-2017, 03:01 PM
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Gettin better 1 [email protected] a time!
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30cc is a 1.80
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Old 09-15-2017, 03:21 PM
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super bad ASS
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http://vogelsang-aeroscale.com/moki2s30cc.html

look like this?

http://vogelsang-aeroscale.com/30FSA&HA.jpg
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Old 09-15-2017, 04:39 PM
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There are two Moki's out there, the one's linked above and a now defunct (I think) glow engine manufacturer. Sounds like yours is from the second company.

The 180 listed above for the first one is 180cc.

The older, glow engine looks like this one:

Moki 1.80 on Giles G-300 watch your fingers (6 min 36 sec)
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:23 PM
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No not at all
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nergall View Post
There are two Moki's out there, the one's linked above and a now defunct (I think) glow engine manufacturer. Sounds like yours is from the second company.

The 180 listed above for the first one is 180cc.

The older, glow engine looks like this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGZnrrZ_MwQ
Yes thats what it looks like. so its a 180?
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:01 PM
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Just havin' fun!
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I've owned one of these for years, my Moki 1.80(30cc) runs best on FAI fuel(0% nitro), and about an 18x8 or 18x10 prop.

Start it just as Mr. Nergall did, with it primed to the point that it's very wet. I prefer a chicken-stick instead of a glove, but of course that's just a personal preference... but as was mentioned, these engines do bite badly... If it seems to want to start in reverse, you're flipping it too hard, as all it takes is seemingly a bump/knudge to start when it's prepped.. so yeah.. be ready at all times once you put the igniter on the plug.. that's good info.

A decent starting point for the high-speed needle should be at about 2-1/4 turns(or so).. with that low-speed disc(that's the disc on top of the carb).. with that index mark matching the mold mark on the carb.. That's a starting point, and really should be pretty close to get it started, and probably ticking pretty good. You'll have to fine tune it when it's in a plane of course... but yeah.. they run great. I've got the 1.80, and a 2.10, both are very powerful... and actually very simple once you get the hang of them... much simpler then a gas rig I think.. at least in the simple sense.. ha. Good luck with it. It will last a looong time.

Apparently there's parts available out of Austria somewhere... I'll grab that info when I get a chance. The most susceptible parts on these are the o-rings on that low-speed disc. I have those dimensions, and have successfully used aftermarket/generic parts for that. Just an FYI there.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGrant View Post
I've owned one of these for years, my Moki 1.80(30cc) runs best on FAI fuel(0% nitro), and about an 18x8 or 18x10 prop.

Start it just as Mr. Nergall did, with it primed to the point that it's very wet. I prefer a chicken-stick instead of a glove, but of course that's just a personal preference... but as was mentioned, these engines do bite badly... If it seems to want to start in reverse, you're flipping it too hard, as all it takes is seemingly a bump/knudge to start when it's prepped.. so yeah.. be ready at all times once you put the igniter on the plug.. that's good info.

A decent starting point for the high-speed needle should be at about 2-1/4 turns(or so).. with that low-speed disc(that's the disc on top of the carb).. with that index mark matching the mold mark on the carb.. That's a starting point, and really should be pretty close to get it started, and probably ticking pretty good. You'll have to fine tune it when it's in a plane of course... but yeah.. they run great. I've got the 1.80, and a 2.10, both are very powerful... and actually very simple once you get the hang of them... much simpler then a gas rig I think.. at least in the simple sense.. ha. Good luck with it. It will last a looong time.

Apparently there's parts available out of Austria somewhere... I'll grab that info when I get a chance. The most susceptible parts on these are the o-rings on that low-speed disc. I have those dimensions, and have successfully used aftermarket/generic parts for that. Just an FYI there.
thank you this is extremely helpful, i do need carb parts so if you can find me a link that would be awesome!
the disc and throttle barrel need to be replaced, they were seized together.. it wasnt pretty..
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:00 PM
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Not that it matters, but that isn't me in the video. It was just the first result in a Google search.
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Old 09-16-2017, 03:20 AM
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Ok Nergall... thanks. It was a very decent example for an ID it seems.

dbuttero, The throttle barrel and disc are somewhat susceptible to freezing up if they've been left to sit for a long time. That doesn't mean you need a new one necessarily though, unless yours is damaged for some reason. Soak the carb in some glow-fuel(the same stuff you'll run the engine with, or very similar..really any glow fuel for the time being)... Just a thought there.... as I'm not sure what you're up against without seeing it.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:45 AM
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They're get'n lower mate.....
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You will also obtain a better / reliable low rpm with an OS -F plug - this is the 4 stroke plug
it holds heat better
5% nitro i found to be the max , any thing more and the Moki's become unreliable
1/8" fuel line is advisable as the Moki is a thirsty engine, the 2.10's i ran would drink 16oz's in under 10 minutes
The Mezjlik props i found to be the better with Falcon second
Use all synthetic coolpower fuel , no castor as it will gum the combustion chamber & exhaust
After every season i would strip down and clean the combustion chamber & liner with scotchbrite, remove piston ring and clean it and the groove carefully
The Byron sport exhaust i found to be the best out of all the options on the market
The Moki is a great engine with reliabilty - best in its class
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DGrant View Post
Ok Nergall... thanks. It was a very decent example for an ID it seems.

dbuttero, The throttle barrel and disc are somewhat susceptible to freezing up if they've been left to sit for a long time. That doesn't mean you need a new one necessarily though, unless yours is damaged for some reason. Soak the carb in some glow-fuel(the same stuff you'll run the engine with, or very similar..really any glow fuel for the time being)... Just a thought there.... as I'm not sure what you're up against without seeing it.
unfortunately it is damaged
like i said, it wasnt pretty
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:34 PM
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I loved my 2.10. Best 2 stroke ever.
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